Bunch of ?'s - Just get the fack in here

[Joe 5.0]

I'm putting together my combo of parts that I'll be able to afford this season. Here's my list so far:

1. TFS Intake w/ Elbow ($500 with elbow)
2. BBK Longtube headers with matching offroad Hpipe ($420)
2. C&L 76mm w/ TrueFlow pipe ($250)
3. FMS Throttle Body($275 - satin) OR BBK Throttle Body($190 - satin) OR Professional Products Throttle Body ($165 - fully polished)
4. Bullit/Cobra front bake kit (Calipers, pads, rotors, + SS lines) ($480 w/SS lines)
5. Lower Control Arms - Brand ???
6. 26x10.5 ET Streets for stock 16's ($200 used or $320 new)

Ok, lots of questions. First off, any major errors on those parts and how they will work together? Anything I need to add that will make it work alot better? (injectors?, afr?)

Specific questions:

1. Is the FMS throttle body worth the extra $85 & $100 respectively over the BBK/Edelbrock & Pro-Products? I know that the Pro-Products TB does not include the TPS, but with only 75k on my engine does it NEED a new TPS?

2. Does the BBK/Edelbrock TB come with a new TPS?

3. Which size TB should I go with? Eventually I will have AFR 165's & a custom grind cam. I do not want to buy anything twice, so I am leaning toward the 70mm (which FMS does not make). Will I kill my low end tq (velocity) & throttle response with a 70mm if I'm not making 300hp?

4. Is the C&L 76mm the MAF I should go with? I like the pipe that is included with it.

5. Will the Cobra/Bullit brakes fit under my 17x9.5 Torq Thrust II's with a +24mm offset? I know the stock caliper is very close to the wheel right now, and I do not want to have to grind anything or use spacers to clear.

6. Which brand/model of LCA's should I go with? So far I like the Maximum Motorsports non-adj standard ($250) & Steeda Aluminum Lower 555-4501($209) or JMS $167). I do go road-racing, so I cant use a drag only LCA.

7. And of course you know I have to ask how much power this combo will make and what I should run. I'm guessing maybe 240whp/295wtq & mid 13's with a killer launch? Is that being too optimistic?

Any help is appreciated.

 

[yellow1995Cobra]

I ran a 70mm tbody with stock heads/cam/cobra intake and it worked fine. Ran high 13's like that. Then with the gt40x heads/b cam/typhoon and worked great with that settup. You can probably get away with keeping the stock tbody for a while, and put the money towards something else?

I used a bbk 70mm tbody for over a year, worked perfect, never an issue with it. I would get the bbk tbody if you dont want new electronics. BBK does NOT come with a TPS.

I would not get the C&L. Go for a pro-m 77mm or one of the other pro-m's. Then just make a cold air outa PVC. You can always get the pro-m recalibrated if need be. This is also not a necessary item, i ran the times in my sig with the stock MAF, so its really not a hold back. You could just wait until you get 24# injectors(or bigger) and get a MAF then.

I have D&D solid upper/lower control arms. They work great. I think all the solid LCA's/UCA's are pretty much the same(some are box, and some tubular). The control arms really stiffened the back up, helped launching alot. Just get which ever ones are cheaper.

High 13's shouldnt be a problem(you have gears right??), a good possibilty you may dip to the mid 13 second range as well. Hard to judge though, sense its all in your driving skill and vehicle weight.

 

[pleasehelp]

Here is your answer for question #5 http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=276604&highlight=torq+thrust

:OT: So jtkz13, it's only a matter of time before you accept my deal.

Do you still have them for sale??

 

[Joe 5.0]

Thanks for the link please, and I'll let ya know soon.

Yellow - Why the Pro-M over the C&L? Is it just a preference thing, or is the electronics of the Pro-M better?

And I know right now the MAF & TB are not the parts that are holding me back, but I dont have the extra $1500 for H/C. I figure I might as well take care of them now and have it setup correctly when I can afford the rest of my setup. And for mid 13's I would need what, about 101-102 mph on slicks? Would the headers & intake/maf/tb give me 3-4 mph or is that dreaming?

BTW I consider myself a better than average driver. I drove my dad's 00GT 5 speed to a 14.02 @ 99 mph with a 2.19 60', bone stock except k&n & no silencer. My car weighs 3285 with the 17's, so probably track weight with the much lighter stock wheels around 3200ish.

 

[95GTvert[bv12]]

pro-m of C&L because pro-m comes with all the electronics and C&L you reuse your stock stuff with a new tube....they both work the same just your stock one is useless after swap....if you buy the C&L used you will almost always get the electronics with it, and you can swap out the tubes for bigger injectors with easy....the tubes usealy go for 20-40 insteal of 150 for a recal

 

[yellow1995Cobra]

I said pro-m over c&l just because i have talked to alot of guys with shakey air/fuel ratio's with C&l's. Of course these were boosted cars though.

I dont think 101-102 will be a problem at all. Especially on slicks. If you can launch the car from around 5k-5200(AND HOOK!), you will see some GREAT results, as your launching from your highest power RPM. I was able to launch from 5k with nittos, so i dont think launching that high on slicks will be a problem at all, but you may break something (axle or tranny). Good luck.