So I'm going to be installing a cable clutch in my 69 mustang with a t5 in a couple weeks. I'm going to be trying to make my own using this clutch cable from Summit Summit SUM-700101 - Summit® Adjustable Clutch Cables . I have long tubes and I've heard all the problems with cables melting, but I was wondering if anybody actually found a way to keep the cable from melting?
Cable Clutch
- Thread starter sj9ers
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You could wrap it with the same stuff intended to insulate headers, and of course you could wrap the headers, but the best would be to use steel eye straps to bolt the cable in place so it can't get close enough to melt the casing.
golf4283
Active Member
Actually that cable looks exactly like the one the MustangSteve conversion uses. I'm gonna save that link for if mine ever melts.
Rusty67
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Maximum Motorsport has done a lot of testing on aftermarket cables and found that none of them compair to the quality of a stock 5.0 cable.
Just something to consider.
Just something to consider.
that cable you linked is the fox adjustable cable. yes it's the cable mustangsteve uses.
It's also too short. If you use that cable, and route it properly so it doesn't bind, you'll be burning it up bad on #5 cylinder up front. If you route it shorter,...behind #8 and down towards the steering box, it'll bind it up.
I discovered this cable
Ford Racing M-7553-E302 - Ford Racing Clutch Linkage Upgrade Kits and Accessories
it's the longer 96+ cable. it worked 100% with my mustang steve quadrant. Straight up bolt on in place of the shorter fox cable that was on it. Now I can route it WAY past the headers up top. It doesn't even come close. If you're using the mustang steve quadrant, you HAVE to use an adj cable. He designed the radius too long on the quadrant to be able to use a factory non adj cable.
This is the above cable with the mustang steve quadrant. I'm all in the clear up top.
Now, the main issue with clutch cable install is that the cable actually HITS the pipe down below where it goes into the fork. You'll find that nearly all of the long tube headers out there all pass right in front of the mounting point for the bell. As a result...they hit/rub the tubes and melt. I burnt through my first cable in less than 5 miles...Some are able to pull the cable away from the headers with a zip tie..but that results in kinking the cable and premature cable failure.
If you want the cable setup to work, you MUST have proper clearance at the bell. The only headers that I've heard that are CHEAP and are supposed to have clearance at the bell are the hedman 88660 headers. However, these are for 351 cars. You can run them on a 302 car but they'll sit lower...which could be an issue for some.
I run the hedman 88300's on my 66 mustang..and the cable hit. I took the car into my friend and had him cut and relocate one tube.
The resulting effect was that I have a straight shot into the bell housing now with no kinking and no zip ties.
It does come pretty close to the two pipes but it does NOT TOUCH!!!!. I'm hoping between the heat reflective tape that I'm using, and a spark plug boot that I am going to wrap around the cable..that I'll have no issues.
with my setup as you see it the clutch pedal is so light I can depress it with my hand.
It's also too short. If you use that cable, and route it properly so it doesn't bind, you'll be burning it up bad on #5 cylinder up front. If you route it shorter,...behind #8 and down towards the steering box, it'll bind it up.
I discovered this cable
Ford Racing M-7553-E302 - Ford Racing Clutch Linkage Upgrade Kits and Accessories
it's the longer 96+ cable. it worked 100% with my mustang steve quadrant. Straight up bolt on in place of the shorter fox cable that was on it. Now I can route it WAY past the headers up top. It doesn't even come close. If you're using the mustang steve quadrant, you HAVE to use an adj cable. He designed the radius too long on the quadrant to be able to use a factory non adj cable.
This is the above cable with the mustang steve quadrant. I'm all in the clear up top.
Now, the main issue with clutch cable install is that the cable actually HITS the pipe down below where it goes into the fork. You'll find that nearly all of the long tube headers out there all pass right in front of the mounting point for the bell. As a result...they hit/rub the tubes and melt. I burnt through my first cable in less than 5 miles...Some are able to pull the cable away from the headers with a zip tie..but that results in kinking the cable and premature cable failure.
If you want the cable setup to work, you MUST have proper clearance at the bell. The only headers that I've heard that are CHEAP and are supposed to have clearance at the bell are the hedman 88660 headers. However, these are for 351 cars. You can run them on a 302 car but they'll sit lower...which could be an issue for some.
I run the hedman 88300's on my 66 mustang..and the cable hit. I took the car into my friend and had him cut and relocate one tube.
The resulting effect was that I have a straight shot into the bell housing now with no kinking and no zip ties.
It does come pretty close to the two pipes but it does NOT TOUCH!!!!. I'm hoping between the heat reflective tape that I'm using, and a spark plug boot that I am going to wrap around the cable..that I'll have no issues.
with my setup as you see it the clutch pedal is so light I can depress it with my hand.
golf4283
Active Member
I have the heddman headers as well. I'll have to see which ones I have in my '66 cause my cable comes nowhere near the headers. I also have it routed through the fender apron on the drivers side so that could be it too. I'll snap some pics and post them up.
golf4283
Active Member
golf4283
Active Member
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