Just stops the piston in the same spot
Great, thanks for the help. I can fab that up easy enough. Just waiting on the cam now.
Just stops the piston in the same spot
I’m thinking bourbon at the workbench this evening whilst staring at the toys.
Set your base timing at 10 with those cylinder heads. Don't run any advanced timing in the base. Those heads do not like any timing above about 29゚ or so. Recently I tuned to car with the 11r heads and we lost mile an hour as we increased the timing above 30*. When we back the timing down to a stock curve she picked up 5 miles an hour in the quarter mile.
Cut the welded nut off and weld a new one on. At least that’s what i’d do.One problem I have that I'd love some guidance on is this:
It appears that one of the welded nuts on the apron in the bay, where the airbox is bolted must've been stripped. Someone tried to run a tap in the nut, and the tap broke off. That tap is HARD. I've tried to center punch and drill, I've tried to grind a flat and hammer/chisel counterclockwise to maybe get it out. Nothing is working. It is now basically flush with the welded nut so there's no grabbing ahold of it with anything. Does anyone have a suggestion?
This...Cut the welded nut off and weld a new one on. At least that’s what i’d do.
I used my old HG if I recall... it was already compressed and not going to be reused. I had it tight, but not torqued to spec.
I used the actual gasket I was going to use, but just snugged the 4 bolts around the head. I did not approach torque spec.
you need to smack the spring with a rubber mallet before you try to compress the spring.I’m pretty sure I got my cam degreed today. Installed dot to dot, it appears to match the open/close, intake/exhaust on the cam card within a half degree at 0.050” lift. The card states the cam is +2* though. Shouldn’t that mean I’d be using the +2* key way in the 9 position crank gear to get those numbers?? I’ll do it again at final assembly of course to be sure.
I attempted to check P/V clearance as well, but I must be doing something wrong. Valves never touched the clay. I was recommended 7.200” pushrods so my checker is 6.8-7.8. I started at 7.2 just to see what would happen.
I’m also failing at putting checker springs in. I have a spring compressor that mounts to the rocker stud. When I compress the valve spring, how the heck do I get the retainer out? I tried a magnet but they stay flush with the spring hat. Is there a trick to this on the trick flow heads? I’m just a little confused about everything I did today.
you need to smack the spring with a rubber mallet before you try to compress the spring.