Efi 351w Swap

full.jpg

full.jpg

full.jpg

full.jpg
 
  • Sponsors (?)


My list tentatively is
1. 6 speed
2. cobra r brakes
3. long rod 351w (I don’t care, I’m gonna try it.)
4. hood scoop (the engine is currently rubbing against the banged up hood)
5. overall cosmetic restoration
a. paint
b. dinoc woodgrain
c. repair any dents in metal or trim
d. hydro dip woodgrain graphic on
outline wood trim pieces.
There is a lot more but the rest of it is just day to day type stuff. God willing the Daddywagon will continue on it’s current path to greatness! Haha!
Well it’s almost a year ago that I posted that. Gonna scratch off 2 and 4. I really want 1, 3, and 5 now. If I can find a t56 that would be awesome. A higher compression shortblock that I can still run 87 octane in would be fantastic. And clean new paint on a straight body would be the cherry on top!! I’m gonna put a new list up.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
Assuming the 3/4 spacer does the trick for my brembo brakes here are my current wants. I have some of what I want on my list but I have yet to install.
1. 6 speed manual transmission
2. engine rebuild (long rod)
a. Keith Black KB333 pistons .030
b. Ford 400M 6.580” connecting rods
c. Ford Street Cruiser x2 heads
d. F4TE casting roller cam block
e. Stock 86-88 speed density roller camshaft
f. Cobra roller rockers
3. full fox mustang dash and console with
working gauges including 140mph speedo
4. air conditioning
5. cruise control
6. horn
7. full cosmetic restoration
8. 79 pace car recaros upholstered to match

I could probably keep going if I think hard enough, but lets start there.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Assuming the 3/4 spacer does the trick for my brembo brakes here are my current wants. I have some of what I want on my list but I have yet to install.
1. 6 speed manual transmission
2. engine rebuild (long rod)
a. Keith Black KB333 pistons .030
b. Ford 400M 6.580” connecting rods
c. Ford Street Cruiser x2 heads
d. F4TE casting roller cam block
e. Stock 86-88 speed density roller camshaft
f. Cobra roller rockers
3. full fox mustang dash and console with
working gauges including 140mph speedo
4. air conditioning
5. cruise control
6. horn
7. full cosmetic restoration
8. 79 pace car recaros upholstered to match

I could probably keep going if I think hard enough, but lets start there.
Where are you located. I know a place that has f4te blocks for $150
 
Where are you located. I know a place that has f4te blocks for $150
I am located in Levittown, Pa. but at this moment I do not need a block. I have most of what I need for that engine build already. I have block, crank, rods, and pistons, and camshaft. I just have to get all the machine work done then assemble.
 
Assuming the 3/4 spacer does the trick for my brembo brakes here are my current wants. I have some of what I want on my list but I have yet to install.
1. 6 speed manual transmission
2. engine rebuild (long rod)
a. Keith Black KB333 pistons .030
b. Ford 400M 6.580” connecting rods
c. Ford Street Cruiser x2 heads
d. F4TE casting roller cam block
e. Stock 86-88 speed density roller camshaft
f. Cobra roller rockers
3. full fox mustang dash and console with
working gauges including 140mph speedo
4. air conditioning
5. cruise control
6. horn
7. full cosmetic restoration
8. 79 pace car recaros upholstered to match

I could probably keep going if I think hard enough, but lets start there.
If they aren't already on your shelf, you need o change your wish list to NOT include Keith Black hyper u craptic pistons.....

Lest this be a future picture that you provide for us..
ringland.gif

Read the reviews.... ( if you can find them...people don't buy these things) The problem with these Pistons is they do not tolerate an incorrect ring end gap, and the rings butt, and cause the failure that you see above. Read the recommended ring end gap chart.....get them too loose because you " intend" to use a power adder, and the engine will use or spew oil...put them too tight and....oops...ka blooey!
They're cheap because they're cast, and they're crap. ( this " review" comes from my usage of them, )

Pistons that are forged, but have added silicone like a JE, and a dozen others are very affordable as a better alternative. The alloy is listed as 4032/36. That piston shares the same potential benefit as a hypereutectic ( less thermal expansion from heat, which allows the machine shop to run tighter skirt clearances when finish honing the bores..which equates to less piston noise) While at the same time, affording a degree of softness to allow the piston to " forgive" pinging/detonation without shattering should something go wrong with your tune.
 
  • Like
  • Useful
Reactions: 2 users
If they aren't already on your shelf, you need o change your wish list to NOT include Keith Black hyper u craptic pistons.....

Lest this be a future picture that you provide for us..
ringland.gif

Read the reviews.... ( if you can find them...people don't buy these things) The problem with these Pistons is they do not tolerate an incorrect ring end gap, and the rings butt, and cause the failure that you see above. Read the recommended ring end gap chart.....get them too loose because you " intend" to use a power adder, and the engine will use or spew oil...put them too tight and....oops...ka blooey!
They're cheap because they're cast, and they're crap. ( this " review" comes from my usage of them, )

Pistons that are forged, but have added silicone like a JE, and a dozen others are very affordable as a better alternative. The alloy is listed as 4032/36. That piston shares the same potential benefit as a hypereutectic ( less thermal expansion from heat, which allows the machine shop to run tighter skirt clearances when finish honing the bores..which equates to less piston noise) While at the same time, affording a degree of softness to allow the piston to " forgive" pinging/detonation without shattering should something go wrong with your tune.
Aaargh! Well I already dropped the coin on these so I have no choice but to roll the dice! I will try to heed your warnings though and be as vigilant as possible regarding tolerances, etc.
 
I am examining the dash conversion and combining this with the wagon chassis harness as well as the aftermarket v8 conversion harness is gonna take some doing. The dash and the wiring that goes with it is circa 1989. Even though the donor car is 1989 2.3L 4 cyl the dash/chassis wiring is the same for 4 or 8 cyl. Well I just happen to have 8 cyl engine wiring from a 1989 mustang. So my plan is to convert almost all of the wiring to 1989 v8 mustang.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
The Daddywagon sits quite low and handles good. The ride is harsh. Up front is B springs. Out back are stock 2004 Cobra IRS springs. When I bought the IRS the seller gave me the stock front Cobra springs. I am gonna install the Cobra springs up front and see what they do.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
The Daddywagon sits quite low and handles good. The ride is harsh. Up front is B springs. Out back are stock 2004 Cobra IRS springs. When I bought the IRS the seller gave me the stock front Cobra springs. I am gonna install the Cobra springs up front and see what they do.
I doubt the Cobra springs will do you much good. What shocks/struts do you have front and back? Do you feel that the harsh ride is due to the front suspension setup or front and rear? How are your bushings?