Engine Engine Swap - lots of upgrades, not running quite right

79pace said:

I dont have the factory valve covers on it. I have composite aftermarket valve covers and I dont keep changing things. This is how it has been since I fired it up and I even provided pictures of how it is set up.

I replaced the lower intake gaskets. I had the entire intake off. I just said that. I put brand new gaskets on and I looked over the ones that came off and found on signs that it had a leak. And if i leave the battery connected it will drain the battery. Again I stated this above. This has been a problem for years on this car and is unrelated. It has a drain probably from an old alarm. Its on the list of things I need to track down.

Also read above. yes I have a vacuum gauge and its pulling about 12lbs.

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Your vacuum is low for a healthy engine - at 650 RPM you should see 16.5-18 inches of vacuum. Run the engine up to 1000 RPM and you should see 18-20 inches of vacuum.

Hi,
Vacuum measurement was taken at 1,000RPM’s, has new, unseated rings where it was 12 & we’d both thought it still seemed low. Is low- I wonder where it’d be at 700RPM’s...
Can you please elaborate on the TPS voltage drop comment you’d made... if my dull brain is processing this right...
you’re showing a voltage drop from the (Org./Wht.) IACV 5VDC reference wire when the Car’s sitting key on versus engine running? No, I don’t believe it’s normal for reference voltage to change KO, versus KOER.
Electronically, I’d believe TPS ref should be consistent (within tolerances) being fed by a regulated 5VDC power supply sitting inside the EEC. Grounds...connections..wire chafed to ground.
Even at lower input voltages, a regulation board will trade current for voltage to maintain within tolerance. When input’s too low to make 5V, a Zener diode or similar will generally shut it down.
Voltage good at battery, sitting..how about running? (Tender removed).
How were the salt & pepper shaker’s connections, if you got into them yet(?).
Just so I was certain I’d done it, I’d clean, add an anti corrosive (anti-Ox) electric paste to solidify all your grounds. Battery to block, block to chassis, battery to EEC, O2 sensors ground, Dizzy chassis solidly grounded to block.(This has occurred before). All grounds for 5V sensors. Pull connectors, clean them.
IACV self Resistance parameters (pin to pin) is 10.5-13.8 Ohms. Red wire supplies regulated 12VDC to it, (same 12V source for injectors). Blue/Wht is the EEC’s supplied, pulsed ground.
The IAC Plug removed, did engine RPM drop, stay running- better/worse?
I’d use the EEC’s capabilities to help, it’s not Obd-2, but very useful.
We’re you able to get an “I’m good” 11 from your EEC, then 4 where it increases RPM’s & runs the car through the EGR test, clear for diagnostics?
Could also run a cylinder balance test...
A compression, and leak down test, may catch if a valve’s not seating, give you a status on your rings, internal engine health.
Was pressure testing performed after porting & reassembling the E-7 heads? Grind too deep or hit a porous casting & well..I know you read me..lol.
Running a new/old balancer? Remember they are 2 pc & the rubber rots causing Separation, timing marks may become erroneous.
I’d suggest Staying the course, holding up well, maybe throw a tool here or there to vent, lol..
Know you’re not new to this. Hard to convey how thoughts are intended via text. Helpful quick references if required:
TPS’s being simple variable resistors, excellent application, but are sacrificial & do wear out. As if you were going to set the TPS voltage again, engine warm, KO & meter connected, cycle the butterfly very slowly through to WOT, watch your VOM, if voltage isn’t linear, dives or jumps, there are dead spots, replace.
You can also disconnect & test it on the Ohmmeter setting on your VOM.
KOEO, check voltage, snap the throttle closed from WOT & see if it repeats.
Some vehicles do work better at lower idle voltage, some higher(between 0.5-0.99DCV.). Opening up the TPS mounting holes will give you more tweaking space.
May also wish to consider upsizing your chassis ground with the 3G alternator upgrade.
Hope blocking the breather has a positive effect.
Best of luck!
-John

79pace said:

File is too large. I will figure out where I can upload it tomorrow and attach it.

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Hi,
Wow, much improved Vac., from 12 to 16, a 25% gain in vacuum TPS replacement makes perfect sense. Sucks about the alternator, better caught than not, it’ll only help things. Not a bad idea to have your battery load tested, too. Stick a pin through wire insulation for easier VOM measurements. One at a time, right...
Best!
-John
PM sent; Video

If you get to the point where we find out the ECU is faulted and you do want to run a standalone, I can supply a parts list for you.

I also tune the ones i will suggest often, so you will have direct help/advice.

Sweet 303 Lope in the morning is almost equivalent to coffee!

Hope the Alternator, TPS nails this. This thread is a great “how to” example without needlessly throwing parts at problem(s).
Don’t believe a drive will hurt anything, plenty of oil, pressure, fuel volume, T-5 right? Could take it for a small toot, May give you more clues, help the eec relearn.
Car does have to be driven under a load to see if there’s no hiccups, piston rings are longing for a load, lol

Was going to ask you how old your fuel was, fresh 91 or 93 will not hurt it for sure. Trans, just meant manual Trans- Driving- worst case, Clutch in- kill the motor. Helper spring on the throttle linkage(?)
So, New parts, fuel Filter, pump, TPS, Alt, 91/93 Oct Fuel all coming up.
Curious...
Try clocking the OE MAF?
EGR line connected to the EEC controlled vacuum switch(zero EGR vac at idle)?
Maybe a FP gauge on the rail...while you’re doing this, helpful, worthwhile.
Best!
-John