Engine Engine Swap - lots of upgrades, not running quite right
- Thread starter 79pace
- Start date
Trying to keep the MAF in the stock location on the bracket. I picked up a used BBK cold air kit hoping to use just the elbow piece but it was meant to use with the other maf that has no mounting holes. I may just use the stock elbow but I had to do some shaving on it to get it to fit my throttle body. I have a 65mm Professional products TB and a 75mm Pro M mass air. I dont want the intake tube to be a restriction but I was hoping to use the stock elbow and airbox. Right now I am thinking that may not be an option. What are the options to replace the stock elbow and keep the MAf in the factory location? I found some photos of a aluminum C&L one which would work but was hoping for a black plastic or rubber one that looked at least remotely like the stock one. Options? This is on a 1993 GT by the way.
Boostedpimp
20+ Year Stangneter 
At idle rpms 850 and sea level I'd say 12-14 vacuum would be normal with that can.
I would take a good look at the alternator though, Does volts go up with more rpm? Measure the out put of it and verify the grounds are solid. Like mentioned above low charging volts can cause a car to act weird.
I would take a good look at the alternator though, Does volts go up with more rpm? Measure the out put of it and verify the grounds are solid. Like mentioned above low charging volts can cause a car to act weird.
08GT500
5 Year Member
No prob’s. I’d meant fortunately, it’s not pedestals, thats the PITA, adjustable stud mounts w/locking setscrew is the only way to go!
IMO, 12lbs Is a bit low, should be a stable 15 + lbs with an e-303’s overlap factored in. 17-19 stock(again, stable). What RPM does it idle at?
Some cars pull higher vacuum, some less. You just installed rings, too- bit less vacuum at idle may make sense. Need to get some miles on it, break them in. Easier said than done.
Any indication it’s running lean or rich ?(pull a few plugs). Medium tan is optimum. Charts online.
The rubber PCV mount & brake booster line grommet are sometimes overlooked, the lifter valley are spots block leaking from the valley also causes low vacuum readings & lean codes.
On the charging issue above, issues within the charging system may cause the motor to run unusual. I think the codes will shed further light on the subject, once pulled. Yes, agree obd-0, 0bd-1platforms aren’t quite plug n play as Obd-2 platforms, no monitoring, etc..least you’ll be able to plug-in & extract/clear codes.
I still use a small butane pen around vacuum-related issues, alcohol & H20 in a spray bottle also works well. Locating a vacuum leak is a time consuming process.
David you retorque your intake lower a couple of times after the 1st Install? It will settle, tighten only to recommended ft/lbs or you can peel a head...best
-John
It was staying around 1000 when I could get it to stay stable for any length of time. I have been around long enough to know how to read plugs so no chart necessary. But I dont think its run enough at this point to indicate much. I am going to remedy the vacuum leak tonight. I feel like its pretty close now. Code reader will be here today as well. Oh and adjustable rockers with the poly locks are great except on a fox mustang where the upper intake has to come off every time you need to pull your valve covers. lol. I can see why people go to the elbow style 4bbl looking intake. These are reasons I think carburetors are so much easier. I would have had this thing running like a top days ago with a 650 double pumper on it.
Engine - Engine Swap - lots of upgrades, not running quite right
Pulled out the factory bone stock 1993 engine. Never had valve covers or intake off. Dropped in the following 1990 Short block with a ball hone and fresh rings and bearings E303 Cam and new timing chain set E7TE Professionally ported heads with 194/160 valves, Screw in studs and guide plates...
www.stangnet.com
Not trying to add parts, Its going to keep everything where ProM suggests gut I am actually wondering if my stock elbow is smaller than the mass air sensor and throttle body causing air flow problems that may contribute to my issues. ProM built the MAF on the assumption that I was using a better intake elbow.
I pulled it out and re indexed it after that pic. That was pre startup.
Boostedpimp
20+ Year Stangneter
I had the same plastic proM bullet 75mm maf on my daily driver for years... it had stock rubber ribbed elbow, 3" bbk chrome crap elbow, and finally a 3.5 anderson powerpipe and never had a problem with any of them.
If year worried about the MAF being the issue you could unplug it and see how the car idles... it will go into "limp" mode and will use default gussed values for your air and fueling rather then readings from the incoming air from maf. So it'll be pig rich but if it idles perfect then you might want to try clocking that maf or even sending it back to be looked at or re calibrated.
Just worried it is a restriction since it appears to be smaller than the opening in the MAF. I just want to make sure the tube from the MAF to the TB isnt causing inconsistent airflow signal into the motor or making things less than optimal. I wanted to get the setup how it will be staying so i dont end up chasing down more problems later. Not really wanting to go crazy and put a cold air kit on it. I just wanted to use the stock airbox and some type of tube that at least resembled the stock one but without being a restriction. i cant imagine having a 75mm MAF sending air into a 65mm or less inlet tube is helping anything. Maybe I am wrong. I cannot seem to find any real info on the airflow capacity of that stock tube. If it is larger than the MAF then so be it. Just dont see it being optimal is all.
Just updating. So I re did all the rocker arms and got the valve covers back on. Did not find any glaring issues there. A couple of them were not as tight as I thought originally but not bad. Probably the ticking I was hearing. I did start re installing the EGR spacer (found that my EGR valve itself was crap. My fault. I had to bend the housing slightly so it did not make contact with FPR. I did not think I did too much bending. I knew it would probably not function bit it appears It tore the diaphram so big vacuum leak. That was pob why i was getting a hit on the EGR spacer leaking. So I went ahead and just eliminated it but I will still hook the grey plastic sensor to the connector so I can possibly no check engine light. So upon assembly I found that the IAC is hitting the side of the EGR housing and will not completely seat up either. I am not sure how it was on there before. I know I did not have issues when I originally install this stuff so not sure why its making contact now but I am going to either make a small spacer or hit the side of the EGR with the grinder and make some clearance for it. But definitely had a good size vacuum leak from inside the EGR valve itself. Hoping to get it back together tonight, if not then this weekend. Have not run codes yet. Busy on this mess.
If the battery is disco'd then the codes will go away, when you get it started again drive it around some and then pull codes.
I always pull the battery. It has an open circuit somewhere that will drain the battery overnight. Thats a project for another day. It had a crazy looking 90's alarm installed that had probably not worked in years. I thought I got it all removed but I suspect something in that is causing my drain. So battery is always disconnected when its going to sit overnight.
I did get some current pics last night. Also took one of the view that shows why the IAC does not fit right. Most of the aftermarket throttle bodies I looked at on google look like the IAC pad is spaced out away further but the pro products one is sunk in more. It needs the other style IAC that doesnt have the part sticking off the end. Not sure if ones of different styles work on the fox or not but I do have one from a explorer 5.0L that does fit but the plug is straight out the end and makes the wiring hard to get on. I did not try to use it though. Will try to clearance the stock one. Also see how pinched the stock intake elbow looks just behind the MAF. That is where I am worried it is bottle necking the airflow. I also had to take a razor blade and really shave down the inside of the factory rubber elbow up where it goes onto the TB to get it to slip up on there and it is still a fight to get it on.
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That distributor still looks wonky and I would add about 4 to 6 inches of straight pipe between the filter and the maf, turbulence inside the filter will mess with maf readings, needs some distance to straighten out. JMO
I will look at it but it is timed correctly. The rotor is pointing at #1 at TDC and the timing marks line up at TDC. I can re index it and make the Module point wherever i want. As long as the rotor still points at 1 it should be good. I will look at it. And as far as the Filter that is how ProM's documentation suggests but I am looking at buying a stock airbox to put on it but need to verify that the exit hole on it is as big or bigger than the MAF opening. If not I cant use it.
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