Brakes Front brakes heating up, pressurizing fluid, pedal stays up

Mustang5L5 · Dec 15, 2020

Id prob get the cardone 5473207. That booster doesn't look great and while you are here i'd change it out.

Also, that PV does not look good inside. Iwouldn't be surprised if that rust clogged one of the ports.

MRaburn · Dec 15, 2020

Ordered a PV rebuild kit and a new Booster.

This is fun. :/

Mike

Noobz347 · Dec 15, 2020

This is what happens when you don't run all the updates at the same time.

Mustang5L5 · Dec 15, 2020

Wait til you go under the dash to unbolt the booster! Then you'll see what's fun.

Actually, best way to do it is a LONG extension. All the nuts have a straight shot from where you knees would be located with a 24-36" long extension. You might need to remove the lower dash trim, but from there you should be able to see the straight shot to the nuts. Ford designed the pedal assembly so that nothing really blocks them when you come in with an extension.

I made the mistake of trying to go under there with a short rachet and wrench the first time. Wow

Noobz347 · Dec 15, 2020

...and pull the driver's seat.

General karthief · Dec 15, 2020

Yeah, the under dash stuff is not fun, pulling the front seat will help tremendously, and those seat studs will poke at you worse than an ex living next door.
I got the cordone booster for the valdez but I had to paint it.
It's a straight shot with a long extension. I had to put a dab of rtv to hold the nut in the socket, kept falling off.

MRaburn · Dec 30, 2020

OK, update fellas.

1. Booster is in with new M/C. however it looks like the rod for this booster has a bigger surface area than teh old, so the brake light switch stays on, am I needing a different year brake light?

2. This proportioning valve is crap. Can't get one of the plungers out and its so corroded in there I hate to even try to clean it and rebuild. Source for just getting a new PV?

Thanks
Mike

Mustang5L5 · Dec 30, 2020

You shouldn’t need a new rod. Those brake light switches can be very picky about how they sit on the pedal arm. But could always be production variances.

Prop valve is only available used. You’ll need one from an ~80 thru 86.

I’m not sure if the 87-93 one can be used. I know the top two ports are 3/8-24 and 7/16-24 inverted flare. I can find out the bottom two shortly

edit: looks like the bottom two ports are also 3/8 and 7/16

Noobz347 · Dec 30, 2020

MRaburn said:
2. This proportioning valve is crap. Can't get one of the plungers out and its so corroded in there I hate to even try to clean it and rebuild. Source for just getting a new PV?

Is it this one?

Even if I ever did the differences straight in my head it would have been for like 5 minutes.

Mustang5L5 · Dec 30, 2020

Noobz347 said:
Is it this one?

Even if I ever did the differences straight in my head it would have been for like 5 minutes.

actually, of those port sizes are correct and 87-93 valve would work. You would just need to take the 3/8-24 fitting off the rear of the valve and swap it over to the 87+ valve.

you would lose the brake pressure switch though

General karthief · Dec 30, 2020

Let me make a call, I have 'people'.

General karthief · Dec 30, 2020

@MRaburn can you see a part number on it?

Noobz347 · Dec 30, 2020

General karthief said:
@MRaburn can you see a part number on it?

E0CZ-2B328-AA

HemiRick · Dec 30, 2020

I have one on an 89 GT parts car sitting in my yard.

MRaburn · Dec 31, 2020

Let me check all the port threads that I have and get back to you fellas. Appreciate all the advice!

Mike

Habu135 · Jan 8, 2021

Regarding the brake light switch, I used two zip ties to hold the switch at the right angle. One was wrapped around the switch and the second one ran through the first and then through the linkage. The angle stayed horizontal enough where when first applying pedal pressure the lights activated.

MRaburn · Jan 23, 2021

OK, back to scratch. I had to get my machinist friend to remove one of the pistons (one without the spring) by drilling a small hole and using a screw to pull it out it was so corroded. So today I was going to reassemble. Upon trying to put one of the end caps on, I guess one of the threads either on the nut or the inside of the PV was off and it ate itself up, so both are now missing threads. I will order an old one off of eBay me thinks at this time and rebuild it using both for parts. If it's not one thing its the other with these projects!

Mike

Mustang5L5 · Jan 23, 2021

That sucks.

I do think you are in the home stretch though. If that combo vakve is that corroded inside, it’s likely the reason you had pressure issues

MRaburn · Jan 23, 2021

@Mustang5L5 What you think about this one?

1985 Ford Mustang GT LX 5.0 V8 Disc Brake Distribution Block Proportioning Valve for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 1985 Ford Mustang GT LX 5.0 V8 Disc Brake Distribution Block Proportioning Valve at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Mustang5L5 · Jan 23, 2021

That would work.

this one might be cheaper

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=274555918695

E0ZC-2B328-AA is the p/n

Brakes Front brakes heating up, pressurizing fluid, pedal stays up

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Founder

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

Founder

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor

I'd be looking at jacking under the house

Founder

Founder

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Founder

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

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