Going to the track this weekend!!!
- Thread starter GTJake
- Start date
Got it torn down to the heads in a couple hours. But I have to go to work now. I should get a ps puller and balancer puller tomorrow and get the heads off.
Hopefully the shortblock isn't trashed.
Jake
Hopefully the shortblock isn't trashed.
Jake
Popped the heads off this morning. Looks like a popped all the exhaust valves into the pistons. So...
What exhaust valves?
I can prolly do the work myself?
Should I replace the springs?
I'm glad I didn't retard the cam like I was thinking this spring. The exhaust valves would have had even less clearance and prolly caused some major damage.
Thanks
Jake
What exhaust valves?
I can prolly do the work myself?
Should I replace the springs?
I'm glad I didn't retard the cam like I was thinking this spring. The exhaust valves would have had even less clearance and prolly caused some major damage.
Thanks
Jake
89 blue lx
Founding Member
Well there are knicks in the piston, but it should be fine. Custom 7500 rpm valve reliefs...
Jake
Jake
cavscout371
New Member
- Mar 30, 2005
- 277
- 0
- 0
GTJake said:Well there are knicks in the piston, but it should be fine. Custom 7500 rpm valve reliefs...
Jake
Guess thats one way to flycut pistonsWhat kind of setup did/do you have?
WhiteDevil
New Member
Damn i would have guessed it to be the intake valve. Well i guess its better that way. See if you can get some pics up later it would be interesting to know what they look like. Good Luck Bro
There are lots of good valves out there, but I wouldn't worry about that right now.
Are you sure you didn't bust up the valve seats in the process? If the seats are torn up, putting new valves in isn't going to help.
If the seats are OK, changing springs with the heads off is cake. Get a valve spring compressor (you can find them at most auto parts stores), and go to town. Once you see one, it'll be very self explanitory on how to change the springs. Ed will have the (good) springs, and (good) valves for you.
Joe
Are you sure you didn't bust up the valve seats in the process? If the seats are torn up, putting new valves in isn't going to help.
If the seats are OK, changing springs with the heads off is cake. Get a valve spring compressor (you can find them at most auto parts stores), and go to town. Once you see one, it'll be very self explanitory on how to change the springs. Ed will have the (good) springs, and (good) valves for you.
Joe
That's EXACTLY what I did Jake. I suggest calling Ed on the valves/springs. I am still up in the air as to what I'm going to do with mine. I might just buy a new set of heads (stud mount this time) and repair my damaged ones over time and put them on my '90GT.
EDIT: I missed page two, so I agree with the others on checking the valve seat and getting with Ed for the replacement parts.
Do they look like mine?
EDIT: I missed page two, so I agree with the others on checking the valve seat and getting with Ed for the replacement parts.
Do they look like mine?
Yeah, they look pretty much like that Paul. Not as bad though. Yours look like 180* of the valve hit the piston. Mine is more like 90*.
I would imagine the seats need some work. Would that change the exhaust port cc's?
I think I may get the parts from Ed, but have them installed locally.
I'm pulling the timing cover to redo my timing cover gasket, so I'll check the timing chain. Should I just look for exess slack? It's a new Rollmaster (last summer).
I'm almost thinking while I'm in here to get a wilder grind from Ed. I'm not sure how much it would be worth. I thought he had a cam exchange deal where you send him your old one and he sends you a new one for a discounted price. Opinions?
Am I correct to assume the dents put in the pistons will be fine? I should have extra clearance next time right
Joe or JP- Do you know if it's the 'rev_limit_0_off' or 'rev_limit_0_on' that is the real rev limiter in the tweecer? Cuz I definitely don't think 6250 could have done this. More likely the 7500 limiter in the J4J1 cal(rev_limit_0_off).
Jake
I would imagine the seats need some work. Would that change the exhaust port cc's?
I think I may get the parts from Ed, but have them installed locally.
I'm pulling the timing cover to redo my timing cover gasket, so I'll check the timing chain. Should I just look for exess slack? It's a new Rollmaster (last summer).
I'm almost thinking while I'm in here to get a wilder grind from Ed. I'm not sure how much it would be worth. I thought he had a cam exchange deal where you send him your old one and he sends you a new one for a discounted price. Opinions?
Am I correct to assume the dents put in the pistons will be fine? I should have extra clearance next time right
Joe or JP- Do you know if it's the 'rev_limit_0_off' or 'rev_limit_0_on' that is the real rev limiter in the tweecer? Cuz I definitely don't think 6250 could have done this. More likely the 7500 limiter in the J4J1 cal(rev_limit_0_off).
Jake
WhiteDevil
New Member
Like i said when we talked in the im earlier the 6,250 is the limiter that you hit, buuuutttt it would do nothing to stop the over revving of dropping it into 2nd at that high of a MPH even with the limiter going it will rev past it without problem because its a mechanical thing.
WhiteDevil
New Member
The T4MO rev limiter is 7000rpms Jake, not 6250 like the A9L stuff. I have lowered mine to 6400.
WhiteDevil
New Member
I've got mine set at 6500 or 6600. I can't remember.
I was shifting mine on the street at ~6300 and I tickled the limiter a few times on the 1-2 shift.
I don't know about yours, but I know my timing chain was a mother F'er to get on. If it's got any slack in it, get rid of it. High performance chains aren't like stock chains where they stretch and stretch forever. High performance chains will stretch a little before they break. That would be ugly.
Keep the cam you've got. That's got more than enough power to get you into the 11's. If you want to spend money - flycut the pistons a little bit and retard the cam. I'd like to see it run that way.
Hope everything goes good....
Joe
I was shifting mine on the street at ~6300 and I tickled the limiter a few times on the 1-2 shift.
I don't know about yours, but I know my timing chain was a mother F'er to get on. If it's got any slack in it, get rid of it. High performance chains aren't like stock chains where they stretch and stretch forever. High performance chains will stretch a little before they break. That would be ugly.
Keep the cam you've got. That's got more than enough power to get you into the 11's. If you want to spend money - flycut the pistons a little bit and retard the cam. I'd like to see it run that way.
Hope everything goes good....
Joe
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