i was thinking this: cut out the vent hole. make the template for the vent. stick it in the hole. trim out the excessive material from the template, so you still ahve the same contours and shapes as factory. true, this could have taken longer, but i dont want to have to weld any more than i have to, it cuts down on the finish time, as well as a risk if warpage.FastNYellow said:
if you make the rear edge slightly longer, then you can trim the edge for the contour. i didnt know there was a such thing as a $39 fender....for any car.Big-Foot said:Cat - I was thinking along the same lines until...
Until I looked at the 3/4 rear picture (2nd one) and saw the contour of the fender. If he were to have put a break line in there, it would have destroyed the contour. This metal is so bloody thin it's pathetic. It's going to take some work to finish out all his welds but in the long run he will have a much strong fender for it..
I'm waiting until Certi-fit comes out with the $39 clone fender before I do any hacking. Then I am thinking of putting in 3rd gen Firebird TA vents instead..
yeah, i see CAPA certified parts all the time that dont fit, but i dont even see any mention of CAPA....maybe they are worse. never tried them. shouldnt be too bad if you are just gonna cut them up anyway.Big-Foot said:
bigcat said:
i dont see from the pic why my idea would not work. yes the panel is longer to fit to the splash shield, but all i am saying is to cut down on the welding. basically, put a fold in where you have a line of welds. where the horizontal piece, meets the rear piece. for the rear piece, imagine taking a pop can and cutting into the side at an angle. you could still make a piece that fits the shape. maybe we are not describing our ideas to each other very well. if i was there, i could phisically show you what i mean. but i guess we are lost in translation.....glad your way is working out.FastNYellow said:
theres the reason is cant be done. The stock cut out is smaller than the panel i puti n there. That panel is the correct length to touch the splash shield inside the fender. The line was just a free-hand line idrew that ididnt like, so i made another one i liked, that wasnt as curved, and icut it. that line isnt straight that i cut, it just looks that way. and as fasr as i can see, your way would actuallycause more warpage instead of less. When you try to put a crisp line in a curved pc. it bows the curved pc out, so either the fender edge will warp, or the cut panel will warp just from creasing in that line. You have to cut it out all theway to make it work, and to make less work for yourself. It didnt take me that long to grind down the welds. If you do a whole line of little tack welds, instead of a bead, then you have no warpage,. and the welds grind easier - no blobs of thick weld. Thats why this way is easier.
MSP- Thanks man,... i dont think it looks like at rain wreck, I just wanted to show every1 pics of it in progress. its fully ground and finished off now. i need to do theo ther side, then im gonna prime them, wetsand the fenders down andshootthem. Then ill post finished pics. Then ill paint my body kit, haha, then i wanna make a custom ducktail and paint it flat blk like my hood, and ill be done. - Roger
