You and Mike need to keep those damned demons on a leash, I was visited by one or both the last two nights, and now there's a hole in the II the size of a strip of bacon and I'm about to go attack the thing with my $89 Harbor Freight welder.So @a91what how much to ship that monstrosity? That may or may not be a project for another day.
But I was thinking I would like to try my hand at Autocross some day, maybe before I go total drag car. And a turbo that spools at 4500 is fine for the 1320, but would kinda suck trying to drive it. But a positive displacement blower could make enough low end torque to require a boost control strategy to keep from bending rods.
Which leads to my next quandary. @CarMichael Angelo has the 3AMD (or 230AMD depending on his insomnia). I've got the DosDosXX demo. Once I have 2 or 3 32oz DosXX, I come home, and if I don't go immediately to sleep, I get on this damn computer. I read all these posts on all these sites and watch YouTube. Then spend literal hours thinking of stuff to buy/do/fab. Not that I do too much of the latter two. BUT I shop like a LA Housewife with an unlimited credit card good only on Rodeo Drive.
No problem when you find it post a link so I can see how its setup.@a91what I meant an electronic boost controlled wastegate. So one on the intake tract for max boost and then probably one just using spring pressure on the M90? And then still a conventional BOV? I need to find the post again on TurboFord where the guy has an M90 on a 2.3 and a wastegate with like a 3 or 5psi spring on the wastegate mounted on the intake tract. At idle or throttle off, the vacuum opens the wastegate and it acts as a modulated BOV. So it bleeds off low rpm boost to keep from building boost too quick and bending rods. I haven't sat around (sober) and read long enough to understand.
No you wont. You will simply mod the distributor and make it yourself to save money.
I'll will ship it wherever you just let me know. Boost control will be easy, use a spring that is rated for your lowest desired boost level. Then reference the gate from the intake not the turbo outlet, this way the combined boost will open the gate and you dont end up with all the required math.
Getting there but not a slam dunk
Firstly......
No, the rear deck lids are not the same between the stupid looking Argentinian staff car that is a box top, and Futura body Fairmonts.
Secondly,...( and this is just me being me)
I always urge people to do a fair amount of self examination and know what they are capable of, willing to do, or willing to pay to have done when they take on a project.
That said,.......lecture time.
A compound boosted 2.3? Really?
Did you read that Irish guys final outcome? He killed the M62, and couldn’t make any boost on the turbo by itself. Even in compound form, he couldn’t make anymore than like 15 psi. He’s now got to add additional springs to keep waste gates closed that are acting as bypass valves or bov’s, and when taking the complexity of the build, , the whole thing makes my old ITB setup look like a carb on a SBC intake comparatively.
A roots SC makes a buttload of hot air that now gets fed to a turbo thats already hot as hell because it’s sitting........on a glowing, red hot, bundle of tubing. Then, that molten hot mess of air gets to briefly pass through some intercooler before it goes into his engine, and when all said and done..it don’t work right. I did all of that. I decided to “ not just throw in a 5.0/5.7/LS for the sake of simplicity,“ and did what I did to be different.
Everybody here knows how that ended, and what I ended up with.
Conversely,.......A twin scroll turbo attempts to mimic a twin turbo already by nature of its design. In that small engine, I’d bet it’d by almost mandatory that you build the system to take full advantage of that if you want to get any power out of this. That requires that you put the right turbo on the right exhaust manifold.
Anything “ adapted” is a compromise. Especially when you are trying to merge a 4150 sized throat into a restricted opening 1/3-1/2 that size.
Keep it simple if you want to have something that youll be able to rely on when Saturday comes. If you want to make some 400 hp 2.3 turbo, it’s clearly doable. But you don’t have to go “cutting the side of the block open“ to do that. A single, properly sized, twin scroll turbo, and the right converter/gear to get the engine into boost will get you there.
The complexity of adapting a roots S/C to any engine that didn’t come that way is a big enough pain in the ass as it is. Mounting it and plumbing it alone is daunting enough,...Add in another compressor, and all of the sht that comes with tying the two together,.....THEN try to get it running.........And THEN tuning that to have it make full power....consistently....
Id never even get to sleep..the 3amd would get more sleep than I would.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?