I recently bought a 2004 “v6” but it turn out it had an engine swap to it aftermarket halos and a swapped transmission. The engine was a 99 Gt. I can’t figure out why these open injector codes keep popping up and I can’t get a smog with them. Do you guys know how I can fix this?
Help!! Open Injector Circuit Codes
- Thread starter Petericaza
- Start date
08GT500
5 Year Member
Hi,
So, does the car experience serious drivability issues as the data indicates? The vehicle was intended to be a V-6 based Auto...or 5 speed? I see Cyl 5, 7, 1, 6 Injectors showing as open as well as the Coil code. They the only 4 cylinders, or do others pop up, too?
Its showing up a cylinder 7 code & is a 6 cylinder CPU..a very confused (or incorrect) CPU..or corrupt programming. Up to ten cylinders may show codes within a damaged CPU.
It could be the injectors, grounds, wiring damaged or hacked together during the engine swap, it could be the wrong CPU, or drivers within the CPU. If it’s an auto, does it shift normally?
I’ve not seen a mismatched strategy coded CPU do this unless inoperable..or incorrect. Better understand this once we know how it runs, can you snap a shot of the Computer’s identification?
Best!
-John
So, does the car experience serious drivability issues as the data indicates? The vehicle was intended to be a V-6 based Auto...or 5 speed? I see Cyl 5, 7, 1, 6 Injectors showing as open as well as the Coil code. They the only 4 cylinders, or do others pop up, too?
Its showing up a cylinder 7 code & is a 6 cylinder CPU..a very confused (or incorrect) CPU..or corrupt programming. Up to ten cylinders may show codes within a damaged CPU.
It could be the injectors, grounds, wiring damaged or hacked together during the engine swap, it could be the wrong CPU, or drivers within the CPU. If it’s an auto, does it shift normally?
I’ve not seen a mismatched strategy coded CPU do this unless inoperable..or incorrect. Better understand this once we know how it runs, can you snap a shot of the Computer’s identification?
Best!
-John
I think it was supposed to be a v6 manual nothing seems wrong with the car at all tbh but I’ve never driven a manual my dad it seems a little off but that’s all. He doesn’t know cars that much either here’s a pic of the computer I’m going to get a 2002 gt one later if I shouldn’t let me know.
Attachments
08GT500
5 Year Member
Hi, Ok-
I did a bit of digging & found this is the ECU for the 2004 Chassis with a strategy number for a 4.6L V-8. Not a 3.8L V-6.
Yes, this is likely your issue.
I wouldn’t worry about acquiring another computer just yet, this is obviously getting through the PATS handshake & is highly likely the stock CPU.
You can get a V-6 to run off a V-8 CPU, tuning is involved to get around issues such as you’re having, or- like the typical individual- you can buy a V-6 CPU (which I recommend against at this point). Certain CPU parameters need to be correct. First- let’s establish what the Mfg. says this pony was really bred as from the factory.
You can snap a pic of the vin plate, I’m not available tonight- but post it, and this you can also do this yourself. I fail to see why they would do a V-6 swap into a GT, but this mindset helps nothing. Moving forward....
Type the VIN # into a google search, some sites will pop up and allow you to see if the car was actually equipped with a 4.6L V-8 (Making it a GT). I’ll get back with you tomorrow, so- post a VIN # pic up, I’ll verify this for you then-k?
It’s also pretty easy to visually tell a V-6 Mustang from a V-8 by certain design(s), styling and parts under the chassis. If it’s been modified, may be more difficult for you.
It’s discussed here on Stangnet in the archives, here’s a link..
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/differences-between-v6-and-v8.716798/
Ok, talk tomorrow- good luck!
-John
P.S.
Please verify I got that CPU ID right, fuzzy..
4R3A-12A650-RC PCM MPC-15C
I did a bit of digging & found this is the ECU for the 2004 Chassis with a strategy number for a 4.6L V-8. Not a 3.8L V-6.
Yes, this is likely your issue.
I wouldn’t worry about acquiring another computer just yet, this is obviously getting through the PATS handshake & is highly likely the stock CPU.
You can get a V-6 to run off a V-8 CPU, tuning is involved to get around issues such as you’re having, or- like the typical individual- you can buy a V-6 CPU (which I recommend against at this point). Certain CPU parameters need to be correct. First- let’s establish what the Mfg. says this pony was really bred as from the factory.
You can snap a pic of the vin plate, I’m not available tonight- but post it, and this you can also do this yourself. I fail to see why they would do a V-6 swap into a GT, but this mindset helps nothing. Moving forward....
Type the VIN # into a google search, some sites will pop up and allow you to see if the car was actually equipped with a 4.6L V-8 (Making it a GT). I’ll get back with you tomorrow, so- post a VIN # pic up, I’ll verify this for you then-k?
It’s also pretty easy to visually tell a V-6 Mustang from a V-8 by certain design(s), styling and parts under the chassis. If it’s been modified, may be more difficult for you.
It’s discussed here on Stangnet in the archives, here’s a link..
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/differences-between-v6-and-v8.716798/
Ok, talk tomorrow- good luck!
-John
P.S.
Please verify I got that CPU ID right, fuzzy..
4R3A-12A650-RC PCM MPC-15C
Hey not I did vin check the car it is for a v6 3.8 and I bought a used pcm off a pick n pull for mustang he said no problems with it the old pcm had “4.6 v8” written but I can’t really tell so i got another one I installed and the car cranks but no start which is most likely because it needs to be reprogrammed so I have a guy coming later to do this job but yes the vin is for a 3.8 v6 and the guy at the junk yard said the shouldn’t be running good or alright and should be misfiring and not properly working if the fuel injectors actually had an open circuit and the vin is IFAPP40644F199919
08GT500
5 Year Member
Hi,
I’d mentioned that the PCM is for a 4.6, which is confirmed. There’s a quite uncertain history of this car, motor swaps. This is why I suggested proceeding with caution, so it doesn’t cost you a pile of money.
When you’d mentioned a “99”’ 4.6L installed previously, now a 3.9L V6 is why it’s best & you first gather information & verify there’s no wiring harness “hacks” or accidentally damaged wiring, in contrast to just installing another CPU without inspecting.
Component issues, grounds, or differences incorporated within the harness by the individual installing the motor(s) may cause CPU trouble codes to be thrown, even when the engine seems to run ok. It’s not the correct CPU, Nor the first time I’ve seen this.
This is why I’d asked about how the car ran.
Indirect wiring damage or modifications to the same may confuse or cause damage to a CPU & I was going to have you to run a few tests as a precautionary measure to ensure that was not going to happen to you before you installed the correct CPU.
Yes. The CPU will need to be reflashed to work correctly with your car’s security system, PATS. It’s not recognizing your transponder key as the one which it was paired, and is likely why it’s not starting.
Is there a security light lit up on your dash?
The ECU, key & gauge cluster are components of PATS. The software to re-assign is WDS (World Diagnostic System) and can reprogram the VIN# to the CPU & PATS to function correctly, match each other again. Do you have the VIN# from the vehicle the new ECU came from?
Verify this is done correctly, with WDS or a high end Scantool’s relearn program.
Verify the person/location is not just disabling PATS with a handheld flash tuner, this will start the car, but other issues that may make you fail inspection may arise.
Ensure VIN# matches the vehicle & all your gauges & accessories function properly.
It’s beneficial to have the Ignition and key from the car where the CPU came from, and install it, or a new one purchased & programmed via locksmith with the software or dealer.(if you want a spare, now’s the time to do it).
If you have any questions, feel free to post. Hope it all works out for you!
Good luck!!
-John
“may have been tampered with
ts showing up a cylinder 7 code & is a 6 cylinder CPU..a very confused (or incorrect) CPU..or corrupt programming. Up to ten cylinders may show codes within a damaged CPU.”
I’d mentioned that the PCM is for a 4.6, which is confirmed. There’s a quite uncertain history of this car, motor swaps. This is why I suggested proceeding with caution, so it doesn’t cost you a pile of money.
When you’d mentioned a “99”’ 4.6L installed previously, now a 3.9L V6 is why it’s best & you first gather information & verify there’s no wiring harness “hacks” or accidentally damaged wiring, in contrast to just installing another CPU without inspecting.
Component issues, grounds, or differences incorporated within the harness by the individual installing the motor(s) may cause CPU trouble codes to be thrown, even when the engine seems to run ok. It’s not the correct CPU, Nor the first time I’ve seen this.
This is why I’d asked about how the car ran.
Indirect wiring damage or modifications to the same may confuse or cause damage to a CPU & I was going to have you to run a few tests as a precautionary measure to ensure that was not going to happen to you before you installed the correct CPU.
Yes. The CPU will need to be reflashed to work correctly with your car’s security system, PATS. It’s not recognizing your transponder key as the one which it was paired, and is likely why it’s not starting.
Is there a security light lit up on your dash?
The ECU, key & gauge cluster are components of PATS. The software to re-assign is WDS (World Diagnostic System) and can reprogram the VIN# to the CPU & PATS to function correctly, match each other again. Do you have the VIN# from the vehicle the new ECU came from?
Verify this is done correctly, with WDS or a high end Scantool’s relearn program.
Verify the person/location is not just disabling PATS with a handheld flash tuner, this will start the car, but other issues that may make you fail inspection may arise.
Ensure VIN# matches the vehicle & all your gauges & accessories function properly.
It’s beneficial to have the Ignition and key from the car where the CPU came from, and install it, or a new one purchased & programmed via locksmith with the software or dealer.(if you want a spare, now’s the time to do it).
If you have any questions, feel free to post. Hope it all works out for you!
Good luck!!
-John
“may have been tampered with
ts showing up a cylinder 7 code & is a 6 cylinder CPU..a very confused (or incorrect) CPU..or corrupt programming. Up to ten cylinders may show codes within a damaged CPU.”
Yea I got it started he reprogrammed the cpu with the key and everything last night it sounds fine still and the scan tool showing no codes and no lights on dash the speedometer still however doesn’t work it goes up to the 150mph tick mark which I believe is for a gt sn95 correct next if I’m wrong and I can still do those tests you mentioned
08GT500
5 Year Member
Hi,
With the appropriate CPU successfully integrated to the vehicle, absence of trouble codes, your time for acquiring an Inspection sticker approaches, (Youre in California, correct- Most intense state, sure you realize). .Be careful to leave no stone unturned. Have all receipts handy.
I’m a bit vexed gas to how it was registered if VIN# reflects an 04’ V-6 car, running a 99’ 4.6L, as you’d mentioned. And that CPU...
Moving on..
Did you happen to note the mileage on the Car before the CPU was installed & what it now reflects with the new ECU? Is the Odometer reading showing up at all? I’m no expert on Cali emissions, but you’ll fail if a speedo is malfunctioning here in Mass. Did it function before the CPU swap?
These tests are both to verify no inspection surprises, get your speedo up & running, check that the CPU install went 100%. Below tests will reflect this when you hook your Scantool up.
1) Stream/observe live PID’s.@ Idle.
2) Check for any pending codes.
3) Datalog (record) a drive cycle.
4) Ensure that CPU/Chassis VIN#’s correlate. All readiness monitors are good to go for an Inspection.
5) Check if speedometer readings are correctly interpreted by the CPU from the transmission.
As aforementioned, with its spotty history i’d have done a harness pinout & verified no harness mutilation existed prior to the CPU swap-out. Fortunately, luckily-all seems ok..
The 99-04 V6 T5 Tranny will have a tag that (should) read 1352-260. The speedo sensor from the tranny is a Hall effect type. It’s not like the fully mechanical 94-98 V-6 SN95 (and earlier) T-5’s.
The Scantool will isolate the issue of the Speedo, showing the speed (MPH) of the vehicle in a Datalog recording, or streaming in real-time (Active PID’s) verifying all is well from tranny to CPU, or not.
Sender is located on the tail housing close to the main housing and it /its wiring comes out at a 90 degree turn.
Keeping it simple, before & after CPU swap, please detail what has precisely occurred/is occurring with this speedo gauge, odometer.
Thanks!
-John
With the appropriate CPU successfully integrated to the vehicle, absence of trouble codes, your time for acquiring an Inspection sticker approaches, (Youre in California, correct- Most intense state, sure you realize). .Be careful to leave no stone unturned. Have all receipts handy.
I’m a bit vexed gas to how it was registered if VIN# reflects an 04’ V-6 car, running a 99’ 4.6L, as you’d mentioned. And that CPU...
Moving on..
Did you happen to note the mileage on the Car before the CPU was installed & what it now reflects with the new ECU? Is the Odometer reading showing up at all? I’m no expert on Cali emissions, but you’ll fail if a speedo is malfunctioning here in Mass. Did it function before the CPU swap?
These tests are both to verify no inspection surprises, get your speedo up & running, check that the CPU install went 100%. Below tests will reflect this when you hook your Scantool up.
1) Stream/observe live PID’s.@ Idle.
2) Check for any pending codes.
3) Datalog (record) a drive cycle.
4) Ensure that CPU/Chassis VIN#’s correlate. All readiness monitors are good to go for an Inspection.
5) Check if speedometer readings are correctly interpreted by the CPU from the transmission.
As aforementioned, with its spotty history i’d have done a harness pinout & verified no harness mutilation existed prior to the CPU swap-out. Fortunately, luckily-all seems ok..
The 99-04 V6 T5 Tranny will have a tag that (should) read 1352-260. The speedo sensor from the tranny is a Hall effect type. It’s not like the fully mechanical 94-98 V-6 SN95 (and earlier) T-5’s.
The Scantool will isolate the issue of the Speedo, showing the speed (MPH) of the vehicle in a Datalog recording, or streaming in real-time (Active PID’s) verifying all is well from tranny to CPU, or not.
Sender is located on the tail housing close to the main housing and it /its wiring comes out at a 90 degree turn.
Keeping it simple, before & after CPU swap, please detail what has precisely occurred/is occurring with this speedo gauge, odometer.
Thanks!
-John
Hi john the speedometer was not working before I bought the car. The previous owner also changed the transmission for the car and did not put the appropriate VIN on the car for the swap so basically it’s a v-6 vin and the guts are a v8. I plugged in my scan tool and when me and my dad drove it the speed was coming up on the tool but it was only going up to around 17 kph when we are on the highway so I don’t know. And the original mileage is on the car. The speedometer did not work at all however I haven’t gotten time to test drive it yet after the swapped pcm yet
08GT500
5 Year Member
Hi Buddy,
Sorry for the delay. 17KPH is like 10.6 MPH. Though incorrect, this is good news. It means the transmission is sending the signal, the CPU is recieving & deciphering that signal from the Trans., it could be much worse.
Now what you need to do is get the numbers off the tranny. We can figure out what type & generation transmission is in there & there’s many options for what’s likely in there, the T-5.
The TR3650’s were used in the ‘04’s V-8(4.6l SOHC) app’s, I don’t believe they will even mate up to a v-6 without an adapter kit. The T-5’s used both cable & electronic interfacing to &’for the speedo, yours being the latter.
There’s a few places that specialize in providing products just for these scenarios, so don’t worry about that. Just get that ID# off it and we’ll take it from there-k? To answer an earlier question- yes, i believe the speedometer for the V-6’s went to 120 MPH, GT’s to 150MPH.
Good luck!
-John
Hi john there were no numbers on the transmission however doing a visual inspection led me to believe that my transmission is a t45
08GT500
5 Year Member
Hi,
A T-45? Huh. I’ll do a little digging- not aware they would simply bolt up to the V-6..(?) They were specific to the 1st modular 4.6l Motors from 96’- early 2001.The 99+’ T-45’s ran an electronically controlled speedo, like yours does. Also know that’s not likely the cluster that belongs there.
I realize your’car is a mix of 4.6l & v-6 parts across years. if it’s indeed a T-45, you’re easiest route may be to replace the speedo’s guts with those from a car that ran the specific T45 type you’re running. Like buying a used cluster off EBay & swapping the speedo’s Innards out, only.
I’ll look up that site that specifically sells parts to correct scenarios such as this & post it.
May be a good idea to throw it on a lift as you have to know the exact trans ID to even begin attempting to calibrate this. All your other gauges work & still no CEL’s- correct?
Have you attempted to get a sticker with the speedo as-is?
-John
A T-45? Huh. I’ll do a little digging- not aware they would simply bolt up to the V-6..(?) They were specific to the 1st modular 4.6l Motors from 96’- early 2001.The 99+’ T-45’s ran an electronically controlled speedo, like yours does. Also know that’s not likely the cluster that belongs there.
I realize your’car is a mix of 4.6l & v-6 parts across years. if it’s indeed a T-45, you’re easiest route may be to replace the speedo’s guts with those from a car that ran the specific T45 type you’re running. Like buying a used cluster off EBay & swapping the speedo’s Innards out, only.
I’ll look up that site that specifically sells parts to correct scenarios such as this & post it.
May be a good idea to throw it on a lift as you have to know the exact trans ID to even begin attempting to calibrate this. All your other gauges work & still no CEL’s- correct?
Have you attempted to get a sticker with the speedo as-is?
-John
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
Stop trying to "parts swap" your way though this. It will just dig the hole deeper than it is already. Think about it. YOUR car is not like any other car with all the parts already swapped. Your problem is unlikely to be a likely someone else's pattern failure.
Learn. Test! Learn. Then test some more.
IMO one of your best investments would be a Ford factory service manual and wiring diagrams. This will give you the information needed to correctly trouble shoot the problems. AllDataDIY.com is one possible source for a Ford Factory service manual and wiring diagrams.
In other threads I have given detailed instructions on how to trouble shoot a P0460 DTC. Don't rely on "parts swapping" as your first method of trouble shooting. This issue may have a simple solution IF you bothered to do the basic research.
Learn. Test! Learn. Then test some more.
IMO one of your best investments would be a Ford factory service manual and wiring diagrams. This will give you the information needed to correctly trouble shoot the problems. AllDataDIY.com is one possible source for a Ford Factory service manual and wiring diagrams.
In other threads I have given detailed instructions on how to trouble shoot a P0460 DTC. Don't rely on "parts swapping" as your first method of trouble shooting. This issue may have a simple solution IF you bothered to do the basic research.
Last edited:
The only part I’ve swapped so far was the pcm and IT cleared the injector codes and they never came back I’m just not sure what to really test for I’m fairly new to cars and how to run the tests and everything. Would you be able to tell my why my car makes this sound as well
View: https://youtu.be/9wxC9xWhhR8
Also I’m not sure what service manual id need to get because there’s been many parts swapped that the previous owners have done.
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
Regarding your AC. First check:
From the video, the AC compressor doesn't sound healthy.
There is fairly little difference across the 2001-2004 model year range. So if you are looking for someone to "tell" you a model year either pick 2004 (same as the original car) or 2002 (the same as the PCM).
- the AC Clutch "air gap" to see if it's within spec,
- The Freon level. Likely the clutch is short cycling because it's low on Freon.
From the video, the AC compressor doesn't sound healthy.
There is fairly little difference across the 2001-2004 model year range. So if you are looking for someone to "tell" you a model year either pick 2004 (same as the original car) or 2002 (the same as the PCM).
I don’t have any feeler gauges yet so I’ll I don’t know how I can measure it but I do know the v6 engine was swapped with a v8 so maybe the ac leaked out or something I can’t be sure and that’s maybe the cause. Also the radiator fluid is clean and I’m not sure what you mean by an air dam?
Similar threads
