Hey whats up! More 2.3 power needed

[Piranahbite]

guys, i just fixed the nock in my n/a mustang!!! i did a roller cam swap, and nock no more!!!!!! im absolutly pumped up to finish up that turbo motor, i get out of school for winter break on the 7th, and i plan to get that thing DONE i want to take my tranny to a shop to have it re built, i have some funky stuff goin on and id like it to be looked at via expert eyes before putting more power behind it, as far as the motor goes, i need to assemble the stuff that lives under the intake manifold, oil cooler, catch can, distributor, and whatever else lives there, then its on to the turbo side, wich at this point should just be oil lines and exhaust.

 

[Piranahbite]

also, what do you guys think about eliminating my oil cooler, all my lines are rusted out, and i need to find a gasket for the cooler, chip at big r sells some good looking elimination kits, what do you guys think?

 

[Piranahbite]

Also, some of you guys may hate me for this, i chipped my front cam bearing while removing the N/A cam, it looked pretty bad, i also couldnt take it to a machine shop so i scotch brited it smooth and then hit ONLY the edges of the chip with some 500 grit sand paper and smoothed it out some more so i couldnt cath my finger on it (trying to eliminate any stress risers or high spots), came out pretty good! Also, the ranger cam i got from big r had a nick in one of the bearing surfaces, and put a ring in the same bearing i put a nick in, so i did the same thing, sanded away any stress risers, and high spots, and installed the sucker! Figure the worst thing that could happen at this point would be a failing cam bearing, and if not higher oil consumption and it only needs to last a month or 3

Photos are of the old cam being removed, and the chip before i clean it up


Also! For those wondering how i got the cam out without pulling the motor like the hanes repair manuel says, i just took out one tranny crossmember bolt and it tilted the engine back enough to give me about 2 inches of clearance to get it out (gotta take off the cam gear first or it will still hit)

 

[evintho]

Confused! The nicked cam bearing is in your N/A motor, correct? Why would you be putting the new Big R ranger cam in the N/A motor and not in the Turbo motor??

 

[Piranahbite]

Confused! The nicked cam bearing is in your N/A motor, correct? Why would you be putting the new Big R ranger cam in the N/A motor and not in the Turbo motor??

yes! in the N/A motor, and I bought one of his used, un modified cams its just a roller swap instead of the slider cam, just to get rid of my nock ( i wanted to surprise the old guys at my race track with a silent motor all the sudden)

I bought chips ranger X cam for the turbo motor, and I have it all installed, I needed to buy a stock cam anyway because I want to just throw it in for smog so I can guarantee ill pass the sniff test


in short terms, badass cam is in turbo motor, test cam is in NA motor, ill only us the test cam for smog reasons on the turbo motor

I'm also going to put in a removable caterpillar converter via V-bands( Shannon's idea from stinger) , I'm not comfortable leaving $400 under my car, there's been a lot of theft on my street in the last week or too, my dads plumbing van got robbed, they stole my floor jack out from under my car while it was on jack stands, and yesterday they stole my neighbors work truck

 

[General karthief]

 

[Gone Blue]

I was reading about using a Ranger exhaust header earlier in this thread. This one is expensive but is this what you guys are talking about? https://www.ebay.com/itm/3646342063...pid=5335821607&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1

Found this on Flebay as well, wonder if this would fit a 2.3L Mustang? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1665337418...pid=5335821607&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1

 

[Warhorse Racing]

I was reading about using a Ranger exhaust header earlier in this thread. This one is expensive but is this what you guys are talking about? https://www.ebay.com/itm/3646342063...pid=5335821607&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1

Found this on Flebay as well, wonder if this would fit a 2.3L Mustang? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1665337418...pid=5335821607&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1

There is information in this video about the Ranger header swap on my n/a 1993 2.3L Mustang. There are specific things you need to look out for to make sure the Ranger header will fit your Mustang. The header info starts at 3:51. I used an OEM Ranger header that I found in a salvage yard.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=esaA3po3-7A&t

 

[Noobz347]

Question:

Has anybody ever measured the distance between the exhaust ports on a 2.3 and compared them with those on a 5.0?

Just curious.

 

[Piranahbite]

Question:

Has anybody ever measured the distance between the exhaust ports on a 2.3 and compared them with those on a 5.0?

Just curious.

no, i havent, when i do the swap ill tell you!

 

[Piranahbite]

hey guys, im trying to work on my turbo motor and i have a bit of a delema, the exhaust and oil cooler. i have my turbo all mounted, but no way to connect an exhaust too it because my IHI elbow wont mount to my new T3 turbo, and i wanna hear from those of you who have taken your cars to a California state referee to get the swap approved, what kind of blow off system do you have? internal with the flapper? or a manifold mounted blow off. im debating on going the cheaper route with the manifold mounted blow off since I have the ability too and stinger wants a lil more money than i have for one of their 3" flapper pipes


Forrrrrrr my factory oil cooler, i pretty much Only have the oil cooler, the hoses and metal pipes are toast, I no longer have the water-oil cooled IHI turbo, so im pretty sure even if my coolant hoses were good, they would be junk anyway. Chip at big R sells all the waterline elimination kits id need anyway for my swap.

Let me know what you guys think!

 

[evintho]

Stinger sells the 3" downpipe that you'll need and Chip has the waterline elimination kits so you should be good. IIRC, '88 TC's didn't have a blowoff or bypass valve on them so it's unnecessary. When you visit the BAR ref make sure everything is hooked up properly and nothing is mickey moused! The refs are very anal and they want clean workmanship and properly functioning components. Make sure the EGR valve is hooked up and works and the PCV is installed. You'll also need a full exhaust system with the correct catalytic converter. Your '88 TC motor is newer than your '87 Mustang, it comes from the same family (Ford) and the turbocharger was offered from the factory so you should be good to pass. Oh yeah, be nice and polite. They hold all the cards!

 

[Piranahbite]

Stinger sells the 3" downpipe that you'll need and Chip has the waterline elimination kits so you should be good. IIRC, '88 TC's didn't have a blowoff or bypass valve on them so it's unnecessary. When you visit the BAR ref make sure everything is hooked up properly and nothing is mickey moused! The refs are very anal and they want clean workmanship and properly functioning components. Make sure the EGR valve is hooked up and works and the PCV is installed. You'll also need a full exhaust system with the correct catalytic converter. Your '88 TC motor is newer than your '87 Mustang, it comes from the same family (Ford) and the turbocharger was offered from the factory so you should be good to pass. Oh yeah, be nice and polite. They hold all the cards!

Definitely, im a people pleaser when it comes to getting things done with my car, and I plan to have all the smog equipment work, EGR, PCV (iv never seen the pcv in my life) but i plan to swap over pretty much all my current smog equipment to the motor, if part numbers are the same, and if not, ill replace parts with the proper ones.


as far as waste gate, i feel like there's supposed to be somthing, at least an internal flapper like my ihi has

heres what i would buy from stinger, its just a crap ton of money because i dont have the proper core, and they want a lot to have it made from stainless steel

Exhaust - Down Elbow - 3" Ford 5 Bolt Internal Wastegate (T3/T4, T3, or IHI Turbo-4 Bolt)

3" Down Elbow Ford 5 Bolt (T3/T4, T3, or IHI Turbo-4 Bolt) with oxygen sensor bung for Mustang, Thunderbird, Merkur.

www.stinger-performance.com

 

[Piranahbite]

also! turbo motor so far <--- link

 

[Piranahbite]

Fellas! I have an update for all of you!!! I got myself that 3-in flapper down pipe from stinger, a wastegate from Chip, and some adapters and stuff so I can use some IHI parts. almost done my exhaust side of the engine. I need to do some plumbing with my dad, we're going from an to SAE refrigerator SAE refrigerator fittings, so I can reuse my old oil line. I like it better than the braided one I got from Chip. I still need the c-clip that holds on the wastegate actuator arm my ihi clip is the wrong size. I have a v band I need welded to the downpipe figure I'll get it welded when I have more of the exhaust so I can get both halves welded at once. Also, do you guys think it'd be a good idea to replace my oil pressure sensor? I polished it up and then realized if the engine had 300,000 miles on it it might not be so good. Next on my to-do list is the intake side of the engine. I have to get my oil breather can mounted
distributor mounted
dipstick mounted
Upper intake mounted
fuel rail mounted
injectors
All of my coolant sensors,
And EGR / vacuum lines

I also need help figuring out wich sensors are wich and were do they go! Thanks!

Then I think I'm at the point where I could consider dropping the engine into the car but I would still have to do all the vacuum and vam wiring

 

[Piranahbite]

Well guys, due to unfortunate events on my na 2.3 I feel like I have to speed up my Turbo motor, issue is every time I think I'm getting close I find another system that needs to be either bought or repaired or replaced, right now I'm working on fuel system and turbocharger, I need to figure out a way to regulate boost pressure, and I need to figure out fuel lines and then injector wiring

 

[evintho]

Stinger has an adjustable boost valve, Chip probably has one too.......

Boost Controller | Manual | Universal | Stage 2

This is our premium manual boost controller kit. Simple to use manual boost controller aka boost valve. Increases torque even at stock boost level by creating faster boost response so the turbo reaches max boost at a lower rpm.

www.stinger-performance.com

and, your N/A fuel rail and injector wiring should work on the turbo motor.

 

[Piranahbite]

Stinger has an adjustable boost valve, Chip probably has one too.......

Boost Controller | Manual | Universal | Stage 2

This is our premium manual boost controller kit. Simple to use manual boost controller aka boost valve. Increases torque even at stock boost level by creating faster boost response so the turbo reaches max boost at a lower rpm.

www.stinger-performance.com

and, your N/A fuel rail and injector wiring should work on the turbo motor.

sick!!!! well, im going to get a Manuel boost controller from stinger, chip referred me to them or gillis,

and i need to know what changes ill have to make to the harness to convert from N/A to turbo. dose stinger have a nice write up on it? or dose anyone else? also! i still would like to buy that VAM connector from you if you still have it!

im really pissed and excited! iv spent $4228.98 on this turbo motor and im so close to having it running, an im pissed because now i need it because the N/A motor took a turd

 

[evintho]

For the wiring conversion, step 2 is all you'll really need to do............

87-90 Mustang Turbo Swap Wiring Info

Also, I looked everywhere and I can't find the VAM connector. Good news is Stinger sell 'em!

Wiring - 2.3 VAM Harness Pigtail (36")

Vane Air Meter (VAM) Connector with 36" wire leads. Ron Francis VAM-36

www.stinger-performance.com

 

[Piranahbite]

Got my fuel parts!!! Went with a new set of 35lb injectors, and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, figure id let the girlfriend have some fun and have her put it all together haha, i had some questions for you guys! What/were dose the hose coming from the lower intake barb go? And what is the fuel pressure regulator look alike on my fuel rail?

Also, how do i set up new fuel lines? Are these removable hoses? Or do i put a new one over them and hose clamp it?

Thanks guys!