evintho
20+ Year Stangneter 
I see a flat boss on the front of your turbo, right below the outlet. Drill and tap for a fitting and run lines A & B off of that.
Hey whats up! More 2.3 power needed
- Thread starter Piranahbite
- Start date
Hahaha good eye on that sensor, thats my dad trying to mess with you guys, its his old Harley Davidson temperature guage, he just wants it to fit hahaha, and the fuel rail guage, isnt staying... I just have it there so i dont lose it, says all over the box, not permanent
alright dudes, i feel like the last critical component i need for this build/ swap is an intercooler. i have the oem one yes..... i saw the guy who made the shaker hood.... thats bad ass, but id like to just be be cut and dry and buy this kit from stinger https://www.stinger-performance.com/store/fmic-stock-mustang, pricey, yea, made in america? yea, fits what im doing? yea. i dont see why i shouldnt do it, ill move my ac condencer back an inch or so and drop this puppy in, and ill be done! what do you guys think?
evintho
20+ Year Stangneter
Basically, $600 w/tax and shipping. IMHO, as good as that kit is, I'd pass. An I/C helps but it really doesn't make that much difference in a street driven car. You say you have the factory I/C from the TurboCoupe.......just make that a front mount I/C. Fab up some brackets, incorporate some silicone 90's, couplers and exhaust tubing and you're good to go! Save yourself a few hundred dollars! I ran a monster Isuzu NPR I/C in Thunderstang and I also incorporated a smaller Audi I/C in the roadster. Paid $125 for the NPR and $50 for the Audi and fabbed my own piping systems. That $600 could be wisely spent in other places. Just sayin'.
65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
I don't have that IC setup so I can't recommend it one way or the other, but I can say this: it will likely save you hours upon hours of the fitting, fabricating, and hassle of plumbing some other intercooler yourself. Plus it helps support Stinger who does a lot to support the 2.3T community.
On the turbo boost reference ports, this is what I did with a Chinese turbo similar to yours:
I ended up not using that turbo, but that's how the stock fitting was going to be so I could keep using the stock boost control solenoid. Thread size is 1/8"-27 NPT. For reference, the fuel rail pressure port is 1/16"-27 NPT, which is a standard, but somewhat uncommon US pipe thread size. The average Ford gearhead has probably only ever seen it on Ford fuel rails.
well, i probly should have done what you recomended, i am hyped up to do some fabrication stuff to my car, buuuut i would much rather get this project done sooner and simpiler, i bought stingers FMIC kit, $705.43 im confident that my engine will be future proof, that intercoolers gonna be a beast, i did the math and the other option i considerd would have costed me about the same amount of money, my plan was to buy stingers pipe kit and a smaller IC from racer walsh. im more happy with the rout i chose, i called up shannon at stinger and had him give me a list of things to buy, so im pretty sure i wont be missing anything when parts show up, and all i should have to do would be trim my bumper a lilBasically, $600 w/tax and shipping. IMHO, as good as that kit is, I'd pass. An I/C helps but it really doesn't make that much difference in a street driven car. You say you have the factory I/C from the TurboCoupe.......just make that a front mount I/C. Fab up some brackets, incorporate some silicone 90's, couplers and exhaust tubing and you're good to go! Save yourself a few hundred dollars! I ran a monster Isuzu NPR I/C in Thunderstang and I also incorporated a smaller Audi I/C in the roadster. Paid $125 for the NPR and $50 for the Audi and fabbed my own piping systems. That $600 could be wisely spent in other places. Just sayin'.
yeaaa thats what i was going for, somthing thats made to fit already, its worth it to me to buy somthing that somones already worked the kinks out of, and i dont mind payin a lil extra, specialy if it helps keep american companies that are helpin us "oddball motor" enthusiests wrenching.I don't have that IC setup so I can't recommend it one way or the other, but I can say this: it will likely save you hours upon hours of the fitting, fabricating, and hassle of plumbing some other intercooler yourself. Plus it helps support Stinger who does a lot to support the 2.3T community.
On the turbo boost reference ports, this is what I did with a Chinese turbo similar to yours:
I ended up not using that turbo, but that's how the stock fitting was going to be so I could keep using the stock boost control solenoid. Thread size is 1/8"-27 NPT. For reference, the fuel rail pressure port is 1/16"-27 NPT, which is a standard, but somewhat uncommon US pipe thread size. The average Ford gearhead has probably only ever seen it on Ford fuel rails.
and ass for that fitting? well.... i have that barb sticking out of your turbo, it came off my old ihi unit, ill either do it myself re using my old fitting, or ill send chip from Big R a message seeing if i can buy the rest of the turbo parts so i can complete my system. and yea, all my previous engine knowledge is out the window, had to learn the whole metric system and all its randoms for this build haha
i do have a question about one peice you guys keep mentioning, the boost solenoid.... is it required? or can i get away with not using one? i hvae mine, or whats left of it, and i was hoping i can bypass it, becuase it was one of thosepeices that just fell off and got crushed
65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
I don't know if the ECU looks for it, but functionally the engine will work without it.
65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
If you plug the BCS line, you'll have base wastegate boost all the time. If you replace it with a straight tube so the tee vents into the compressor inlet, you'll have the "high" boost setting all the time. Be cautious of what the Chinese turbo's base pressure is; mine was like 20psi+ and the WGA it came with wasn't going to be safe to use.
I think some of the Pierburg valves that are popular for aftermarket boost controllers might work. I can't remember if the stock one is normally open or normally closed though.
I think some of the Pierburg valves that are popular for aftermarket boost controllers might work. I can't remember if the stock one is normally open or normally closed though.
Guys. I did it. The turbo motors in!!!!
But. I need some help... I got a ac system full of r 12 and id like to not waste it, uppon installation, I forgot to move this ac line into a proper position, now its stuck in a bad one. Can i use this ac line? If not then i got alot of work to do to change it, and if i can, would it be okay to run it between the hot and cold side of the turbo?
But. I need some help... I got a ac system full of r 12 and id like to not waste it, uppon installation, I forgot to move this ac line into a proper position, now its stuck in a bad one. Can i use this ac line? If not then i got alot of work to do to change it, and if i can, would it be okay to run it between the hot and cold side of the turbo?
Attachments
Gettin it more put together! This stinger intercooler kit is giving me some doubts, im having trouble test fitting the outlett tube, keeps finding it's way into my ac lines.... But hey! I got that one line out of the way!! Waiting on a valve cover gasket, and a clutch in the mail, after that i can bolt things up for good. Im trying to make it out to sonoma raceways wensday night drags on the 7th, so, 7 days to put this intercooler, transmission, ecu, vam, and... oh, thats it, my pile of parts is tiny now!
@evintho you should come by! Love to check out your stang if your free!
@evintho you should come by! Love to check out your stang if your free!
Attachments
Fuel Injection Turbo looks good. Impressive is the amount of work you have into this. Plus your cleanliness is impressive. I really hope this car runs smooth and gets to the track. Lets go, and keep us informed.
evintho
20+ Year Stangneter
Thanks for the invite but the Mustang is long gone........
Bozo the clown rearended me at 40mph, pushed me into an SUV and sent me to the hospital. I've since taken the motor/trans from the Mustang and dropped it into my '27 roadster. Been enjoying it for a few years now!
Awwww tragic man, absolutely tragic, id still love to check that thing out if your ever at the track! Mabe copy an idea or two from your engine!Thanks for the invite but the Mustang is long gone........
Bozo the clown rearended me at 40mph, pushed me into an SUV and sent me to the hospital. I've since taken the motor/trans from the Mustang and dropped it into my '27 roadster. Been enjoying it for a few years now!
With a cold one and some company, i got my intercooler, mounted, and braced, with custom made, american steel, American made (by me, im the american who made em), intercooler brakets.
Im working on the intercooler piping. Turns out this stinger kit isnt as inclusive as its marketed to be, its still a great kit, but in order to ya know, keep the air conditioning and not sketchily smush it between my expensive radiator and condenser, i gotta use the stock mount / isolators. But with my luck, i managed to make my IC fit without any major clearance issues, trimmed the lower bumper cover a bit, and might touch the inner bumper itself, part from that i made it fit very tightly, securely, and well.
The piping itself is definitely designed to be ran on a vehicle that dosent have air conditioning that way you can get your I.C. closer to the rad, so your 180° pipes can match up with the throttle body pipe. Mine, dont. Bummer.
So with help from a freind and some more American made couplers, and clamps from stinger, and a couple hack saw blades and beers, were going to cut up my turbo outlet pipe and throttle body pipe and make it truly all inclusive. And also fix some weird angle issues im having, fortunately and unfortunately, my deadline drag race, august 5th at sonoma raceway, got cancelled, some big rich guy probably wanted to drive his porsche on the track for $500,000 so, my new deadline is august 28th, im definitely going to have it running by then. If not im a terrible mechanic.
I start school on August 12th, so ill be limited to working on it on weekends and at night when the homework is light.
My to do list for the next week hopefully:
1. Install spec clutch, pilot bearing, throw-out bearing
2. Re-pin engine harness to match LA3 ECU, and egr harness (trying to follow shannon at stingers write up)
3. Install/re route vaccum lines to blow off valve, waste gate, and boost controller.
4. Moddify/ install remaining intercooler parts
5. Put all belts, accessories, and other panels, bolts back in.
My freinds keep calling this project of mine beautiful, some lf you have even complimented my attention to detail, because of you guys i feel entitled to take my time and make sure this engine is not only fast, but fast and sexy. Im using all my techniques I can to manage wires and hide. Things that should be hidden
The pic of the intercooler routing... I wish it fit like this, i gotta cut some parts, shorten others, lengthen some. Its gonna be bad ass, just, not exactly how it should be acording to the (minimal) stinger instructions. Still a great kit!
Im working on the intercooler piping. Turns out this stinger kit isnt as inclusive as its marketed to be, its still a great kit, but in order to ya know, keep the air conditioning and not sketchily smush it between my expensive radiator and condenser, i gotta use the stock mount / isolators. But with my luck, i managed to make my IC fit without any major clearance issues, trimmed the lower bumper cover a bit, and might touch the inner bumper itself, part from that i made it fit very tightly, securely, and well.
The piping itself is definitely designed to be ran on a vehicle that dosent have air conditioning that way you can get your I.C. closer to the rad, so your 180° pipes can match up with the throttle body pipe. Mine, dont. Bummer.
So with help from a freind and some more American made couplers, and clamps from stinger, and a couple hack saw blades and beers, were going to cut up my turbo outlet pipe and throttle body pipe and make it truly all inclusive. And also fix some weird angle issues im having, fortunately and unfortunately, my deadline drag race, august 5th at sonoma raceway, got cancelled, some big rich guy probably wanted to drive his porsche on the track for $500,000 so, my new deadline is august 28th, im definitely going to have it running by then. If not im a terrible mechanic.
I start school on August 12th, so ill be limited to working on it on weekends and at night when the homework is light.
My to do list for the next week hopefully:
1. Install spec clutch, pilot bearing, throw-out bearing
2. Re-pin engine harness to match LA3 ECU, and egr harness (trying to follow shannon at stingers write up)
3. Install/re route vaccum lines to blow off valve, waste gate, and boost controller.
4. Moddify/ install remaining intercooler parts
5. Put all belts, accessories, and other panels, bolts back in.
My freinds keep calling this project of mine beautiful, some lf you have even complimented my attention to detail, because of you guys i feel entitled to take my time and make sure this engine is not only fast, but fast and sexy. Im using all my techniques I can to manage wires and hide. Things that should be hidden
The pic of the intercooler routing... I wish it fit like this, i gotta cut some parts, shorten others, lengthen some. Its gonna be bad ass, just, not exactly how it should be acording to the (minimal) stinger instructions. Still a great kit!
Attachments
Got some more pretty pictures for you guys! me and a buddy welded up some intercooler pipes, sparked an interest for me to learn how to weld, I got a welder, never tried to use it because I didnt have the confidence. but now I will, and save myself some money!
got the pipes welded up, waiting on a email from stinger about some parts in an order id like to change around, I got my transmission in and clutch in, and I'm putting in my exhaust pipes that way I dont melt my fire wall.
the down pipe I bought from stinger got welded funny by the shop I paid to do it, and now I have clearance issues, hence why the pipe crosses over instead of goes straight to the crossmember, DONT WORRY I got a remedy. I'm gonna get some more stainless 3" pipe and extend it, and put a 45 on it so it passes right under the crossmember hump and looks badass.
I gotta figure out my VAM wiring, stingers write up doesn't explain much about the re pinning process, if anyone has a good video please send it!!!
as far as mounting it, I'm just gonna put a 45 on the turbo inlet, and then mount the VAM to that, and then make a lil bracket or somthing and put a conical K&N filter on it and call it done. OH and then vacuum lines. those should be easy chip gave me a pretty drawing on what to do. waste gate to intake vacuum port on the tree and then make it run through my adjustable pressure controller and blow off valve on the IC pipe.
got the pipes welded up, waiting on a email from stinger about some parts in an order id like to change around, I got my transmission in and clutch in, and I'm putting in my exhaust pipes that way I dont melt my fire wall.
the down pipe I bought from stinger got welded funny by the shop I paid to do it, and now I have clearance issues, hence why the pipe crosses over instead of goes straight to the crossmember, DONT WORRY I got a remedy. I'm gonna get some more stainless 3" pipe and extend it, and put a 45 on it so it passes right under the crossmember hump and looks badass.
I gotta figure out my VAM wiring, stingers write up doesn't explain much about the re pinning process, if anyone has a good video please send it!!!
as far as mounting it, I'm just gonna put a 45 on the turbo inlet, and then mount the VAM to that, and then make a lil bracket or somthing and put a conical K&N filter on it and call it done. OH and then vacuum lines. those should be easy chip gave me a pretty drawing on what to do. waste gate to intake vacuum port on the tree and then make it run through my adjustable pressure controller and blow off valve on the IC pipe.
Similar threads
