Hey whats up! More 2.3 power needed

Piranahbite · Sep 10, 2024

Bullitt347 said:
" has that issue around 3000 rpm,"
"Also, starts losing vaccum for boost at 3000 rpm,"

This is where you need to be looking.

I believe its a fuel supply issue, I have a Manuel fuel pressure regulator, and an insufficient fuel pump, one of my codes is stating that there's a lean condition/always lean so I definitely got to get a fitting for my guage so I can actually read what I'm getting. and i need to get a whole new fuel pump assembly because i got a cheapo universal pump. one of the codes is also for my throttle position sensor, voltage too low, and that may be part of my issue. I'm waiting on my tool to show up to change out my TFI module, incase that's the culprit, my nock sensors un plugged and that didn't cause a change.

Piranahbite · Sep 10, 2024

heres some buty shots for you all

Bullitt347 · Sep 10, 2024

Piranahbite said:
I believe its a fuel supply issue, I have a Manuel fuel pressure regulator, and an insufficient fuel pump, one of my codes is stating that there's a lean condition/always lean so I definitely got to get a fitting for my guage so I can actually read what I'm getting. and i need to get a whole new fuel pump assembly because i got a cheapo universal pump. one of the codes is also for my throttle position sensor, voltage too low, and that may be part of my issue. I'm waiting on my tool to show up to change out my TFI module, incase that's the culprit, my nock sensors un plugged and that didn't cause a change.

Probably not fuel supply.
It is the transition from vacuum to boost that is causing this issue.
If it was fuel supply, you would have no power once it did get through that transition phase, where even more fuel is required.
What sensor monitors vacuum/boost?
Where is the vacuum/boost line/hose attached to the engine that feeds that sensor?

Piranahbite · Sep 10, 2024

Bullitt347 said:
Probably not fuel supply.
It is the transition from vacuum to boost that is causing this issue.
If it was fuel supply, you would have no power once it did get through that transition phase, where even more fuel is required.
What sensor monitors vacuum/boost?
Where is the vacuum/boost line/hose attached to the engine that feeds that sensor?

As far as I know, there's only 5 sensors on the whole engine, one of them is an air charge sensor that I think just reads air temperature another one idle air control valve, next is throttle position sensor, next is knock sensor and vane air meter. Everything else is just solenoids for the EGR system.

Bullitt347 · Sep 10, 2024

Piranahbite said:
As far as I know, there's only 5 sensors on the whole engine, one of them is an air charge sensor that I think just reads air temperature another one idle air control valve, next is throttle position sensor, next is knock sensor and vane air meter. Everything else is just solenoids for the EGR system.

There has to be a MAP/BPS sensor of some kind to let the ECU know boost pressure/manifold vacuum.

Piranahbite · Sep 10, 2024

Bullitt347 said:
There has to be a MAP/BPS sensor of some kind to let the ECU know boost pressure/manifold vacuum.

Hey, I just looked up the specs on my fuel pump, it's a 50 gallon per hour fuel pump @ 120 psi and everyone's recommending me a 60 gallon per hour pump

Ill plug the map sensor back in, i had it disconnected because stingers write up said to cap off the vaccum line. I do remember the xar wouldnt run if i had it plugged in. I can't remember if i tried plugging in the map sensor after i flipped my vam or not. That was one of my initial issues, car wouldnt run because vam was flipped. It would start, but not idle. All i do know is, i blew my head gasket because i forgot to cap off that hose haha

Piranahbite · Sep 10, 2024

Okay, just plugged my map sensor back in, car ran worse than ever and actually died on me a couple times. Un plugged it from the harness, barely ran, capped off the vaccum line, ran good, wont make boost. I believe im having a lean condition. Im pretty danm sure its my fuel pump. 50 gallons per hour vs 60 is a pretty big difference.

evintho · Sep 10, 2024

Pretty sure the 225 gallon per hour fuel pump everyone is recommending is actually 225 liters per hour. Big difference. Also IIRC, the MAP sensor needs to be a BAP sensor which actually is just a map sensor with vac line disconnected I think. I'll have to research that or maybe Stingers website will address that.

AeroCoupe · Sep 10, 2024

Pumps are in liter per hour or lph. Stock units are 88 lph and common aftermarket pumps can be 155, 190, and 255 lph. Most run Walbros but Aeromotove makes good pumps as well albeit they cost more.

Piranahbite · Sep 10, 2024

evintho said:
Pretty sure the 225 gallon per hour fuel pump everyone is recommending is actually 225 liters per hour. Big difference. Also IIRC, the MAP sensor needs to be a BAP sensor which actually is just a map sensor with vac line disconnected I think. I'll have to research that or maybe Stingers website will address that.

Yea, i made that mistake, converted it, its 50 gallons per hour (what i got) compared to the 225lph wich is 60 gallons per hour. Im still thinking its part of my issue.

And yes, i think your on to somthing with that bap sensor, i plugged my map sensor, runs better, i think im gonna try plugging the map sensor, instead of ot just sensing ambient air.

Piranahbite · Sep 10, 2024

AeroCoupe said:
Pumps are in liter per hour or lph. Stock units are 88 lph and common aftermarket pumps can be 155, 190, and 255 lph. Most run Walbros but Aeromotove makes good pumps as well albeit they cost more.

Ehhhh im willing to shell that out. And yea, realized i made that mistake... Ooops

Piranahbite · Sep 10, 2024

Piranahbite said:
Yea, i made that mistake, converted it, its 50 gallons per hour (what i got) compared to the 225lph wich is 60 gallons per hour. Im still thinking its part of my issue.

And yes, i think your on to somthing with that bap sensor, i plugged my map sensor, runs better, i think im gonna try plugging the map sensor, instead of ot just sensing ambient air.

Did this, no change.

Piranahbite · Sep 10, 2024

Okay, so, the last things i can do before having to do alot more thinking is, change distributors, and tfi modules and a fuel pump

I know i shoulda throught about this idea a while ago, what about doing a pimpx ecu? I know its alot of money, and i know its not what i currently have, and wont solve all my problems, but do you guys think it would help me out in the long run?

General karthief · Sep 11, 2024

Piranahbite said:
Okay, so, the last things i can do before having to do alot more thinking is, change distributors, and tfi modules and a fuel pump

I know i shoulda throught about this idea a while ago, what about doing a pimpx ecu? I know its alot of money, and i know its not what i currently have, and wont solve all my problems, but do you guys think it would help me out in the long run?

While yes, the aftermarket ECU is a good idea but at this point it will make fixing the present issue more difficult.
JMO here, fix the issue you have now then explore 'tuning'.

Piranahbite · Sep 11, 2024

General karthief said:
While yes, the aftermarket ECU is a good idea but at this point it will make fixing the present issue more difficult.
JMO here, fix the issue you have now then explore 'tuning'.

Thats what i was thinking, but for my current issue, im lost, ALMOST out of ideas, im gonna olay with timing tonight, see if that has anything to do with it, my tool should be here, after this im at the point were i should just start changing parts, like my fuel pump, filter, see if that fixes my lean condition, then my tps, then somthin else. I wont be able to tell if im running lean because no wide band, but i should probably hook it up sooner rather than later

Some of the codes are vam voltage codes. Im gonna rotate my vam so its flat, incase that 30+ year old motor cant lift it'self out of the way. It also, could just be broken. I never tested the thing

Noobz347 · Sep 11, 2024

You're running this monster on the stock EEC, is that correct?

If so, my concern is along the following lines:

In digital automotive tuning, tip-in enrichment refers to the adjustment of fuel injection and ignition timing to optimize engine performance during rapid throttle transitions, such as when accelerating from a standstill or shifting gears. Here are some key takeaways:

Listen to the Tip-in: Pay attention to how the engine responds to sudden throttle inputs. If it hesitates or stumbles, it may indicate the need for enrichment.

The boost transition falls into this category. This is something that you can really only address in the tune.

Piranahbite · Sep 11, 2024

Noobz347 said:
You're running this monster on the stock EEC, is that correct?

If so, my concern is along the following lines:

In digital automotive tuning, tip-in enrichment refers to the adjustment of fuel injection and ignition timing to optimize engine performance during rapid throttle transitions, such as when accelerating from a standstill or shifting gears. Here are some key takeaways:

Listen to the Tip-in: Pay attention to how the engine responds to sudden throttle inputs. If it hesitates or stumbles, it may indicate the need for enrichment.

The boost transition falls into this category. This is something that you can really only address in the tune.

Wich there really isnt a way to tune an LA3 is there? Ill go do this test and let you know the outcome

Noobz347 · Sep 11, 2024

Piranahbite said:
Wich there really isnt a way to tune an LA3 is there? Ill go do this test and let you know the outcome

I would bet that there's somebody (maybe an SCT tuning shop) that still has EEC-IV tuning capability. That would be the quick fix if there is such a facility nearby.

IMO and being the proud owner and operator of a 4-bank SCT tune that hasn't given me any issues... I would select a more modern solution. It is something I have in the works and have not done, yet. It's "On the List".

Where you are at in the project with money and time etc... Better you than me that has to make that call. Checking on availability of an EEC-IV tune might answer the question for you though.

evintho · Sep 11, 2024

I'd suggest going over to TurboFord and ask TurboRay what he thinks about your situation. He was a factory Ford tech in the '80's and '90's and is very familiar with our turbo 2.3's. He's a wealth of knowledge.

Piranahbite · Sep 11, 2024

Noobz347 said:
I would bet that there's somebody (maybe an SCT tuning shop) that still has EEC-IV tuning capability. That would be the quick fix if there is such a facility nearby.

IMO and being the proud owner and operator of a 4-bank SCT tune that hasn't given me any issues... I would select a more modern solution. It is something I have in the works and have not done, yet. It's "On the List".

Where you are at in the project with money and time etc... Better you than me that has to make that call. Checking on availability of an EEC-IV tune might answer the question for you though.

Well, I'm in this whole project about $7,000+ i did a quick look on the google, not sure were to look, what to look for, i found The TwEECer, not sure what to think of it. Theres a local guy who stopped me the other day and talked 2.3 stuff with me, he said he has a pimp ECU that hes willing to sell me, i may go down that route, iv heard plenty of good things about it.

But before i dive into ecu stuff i gotta get this car to run and not stutter, its gotta run okay before it runs well.

As im writing this i realize im closer to spending $10,000 on this silly 2.3 than i ever intended.

Hey whats up! More 2.3 power needed

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I have been doing it wrong this whole time

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I have been doing it wrong this whole time

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lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

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wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor

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Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor

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