I Hear Of All These 11 Sec Runs How?

[HUNTED]

I was wandering what everyone is doing to get in the 11's with there cars. What combo is everyone running that turns into the 11's. And what kind of tires are you running as well.

I have a 94 mustang. It has tf heads that are cnc milled with upgraded valve springs. It also has a tf track heat intake. Custom cam from d and d motorsports. Probe 10:8! pistons. It has 1.6 roller rockers. 30lb injectors c&l mass air meter. 70mm tb. I run with a 373 gear and some mickytompson street radial tires and the best time i have ran is a 12.99. I have a nitrious setup but i see ppl running low 12' high 11's without them.

 

[95CobraMike]

look in sig..... im sure if i were a good driver i would be in the 11's

but ive never been to the track

 

[1slow95]

My car should be good for mid-low 11's when I finally make it to the track. It sounds like you should be closer to at least mid-low 12's...practice, practice, practice!

What's your 60' times and trap speed?

 

[rio95]

Add a 75 shot or more to your car and you should be in the 11's.

 

[kck6894]

347 ci 11.25:1 comp
TFS TW heads (ported with different springs and valve job)
AFM N-111 Cam
Victor 5.0L Intake (ported)
90mm TB
Power pipe
80mm Pro-M shorty
42lb injectors
1 3/4 long tubes
MSD Digital 6/coil/wires
PMS
92 octane pump gas
8.8 with 4.56's

best ET 11.62
best MPH 119
best 60ft 1.55
3550lbs w/driver

The above times were from last year. I had 15x8 steel wheels with 28x10.5 MT ET Drags & 17x9 Cobra R's. I have since dropped 100lbs from the weight of the car and went to different tires (same kind of slicks in the rear) and wheels. I have not had it on a 1/4 mile track this year since the changes but I have dropped my 60ft's down to 1.51's

 

[Killercanary]

I'm close... 3 hundreths away. LOL! My combo is:

-AFR165 60cc pedestal mount heads (I wish I had stud mount)
-Edelbrock Performer intake
-FTI custom cam
-65mm TB
-75mm MAF
-24lb injectors
-EEC Tuner
-ASP Pulleys
-shorty unequal length headers
-bassani offroad X pipe
-dynomax welded ultrflow mufflers
-stock tail pipes
-TKO trans
-4.10 gears
-31 spline axles


The car ran a 12.33 at 110mph on 315-35-17 drag radials, and a 12.03 at 112mph on 4yr old 26X10.5X16 ET streets after swapping the K member to a tubular one from PA Racing and putting in strange adjustable shocks/struts. My 60's are in the mid to low 1.6's on ET streets and drag radials.

 

[donjohn]

-AFR165 60cc pedestal mount heads (I wish I had stud mount)

why do you say that... stud > pedestal?

 

[Nobody]

AFR's and a T60 will get you mid 11's on Nitto DR's.

http://www.zerort.com/mustang/Will-1167-1215.wmv

 

[HUNTED]

AFR's and a T60 will get you mid 11's on Nitto DR's.

http://www.zerort.com/mustang/Will-1167-1215.wmv

Sweet run nobody what all is done to your car

 

[Killercanary]

why do you say that... stud > pedestal?

They are stronger and easier to adjust. I had one HELL of a time getting my valvetrain geometry and preload right with pedestal mount heads. I had to mess around with different pushrod lengths, and shims. The ONLY way to adjust preload on a pedestal mount head is with different length pushrods, pedestal shims (to raise the rocker), or by milling some off of the pedestal (to lower the rocker). Trust me after having worked on as many 5.0's as I have I will NEVER EVER recommend or go back to pedestal mount heads again. They are a LOT more hassle to deal with. Everyone told me they were easier... that couldn't have been farther from the truth. Once you have everything right, it can be a little quicker because as soon as the cam is on the base circle you can pretty much just torque them down, but its still a good idea to start torquing them after you have tightened the rocker bolt enough to arrive at zero lash.


If I mill my heads, deck the block, run a thicker or thinner head gasket, etc I will be at square one and have to redo then entire valvetrain over again to get the right shims and or mill the pedestals and quite possibly get new pushrods again. My next set WILL be stud mount.

 

[final5-0]

They are stronger and easier to adjust. I had one HELL of a time getting my valvetrain geometry and preload right with pedestal mount heads. I had to mess around with different pushrod lengths, and shims. The ONLY way to adjust preload on a pedestal mount head is with different length pushrods, pedestal shims (to raise the rocker), or by milling some off of the pedestal (to lower the rocker). Trust me after having worked on as many 5.0's as I have I will NEVER EVER recommend or go back to pedestal mount heads again. They are a LOT more hassle to deal with. Everyone told me they were easier... that couldn't have been farther from the truth. Once you have everything right, it can be a little quicker because as soon as the cam is on the base circle you can pretty much just torque them down, but its still a good idea to start torquing them after you have tightened the rocker bolt enough to arrive at zero lash.


If I mill my heads, deck the block, run a thicker or thinner head gasket, etc I will be at square one and have to redo then entire valvetrain over again to get the right shims and or mill the pedestals and quite possibly get new pushrods again. My next set WILL be stud mount.

Great job of telling it how it is with the ped rr's Paul.

Your post could be used in the facts section and then we could just refer noobs to it, lol.

Later
Grady

 

[Killercanary]

Thanks Grady!

 

[Nobody]

Sweet run nobody what all is done to your car

Hunted - Thats is my friend Will's car. I have watched him build his car up to where it is now. In the video, he's got forged internals, AFR 165's, TF intake, a TTI T60 kit and Aeromitive A1000 fuel system. His car is also converted to Speed Density and uses a F.A.S.T. system.