Resolved I need a guide installing AFR 165 heads and 97 Explorer Upper/Lower Intake
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Technically you don't HAVE to do anything other than the gaskets, rockers (different type), pushrods likely, and measure for PTV clearance. That said, you haven't stated your goals or problem statement, just a generic post asking for someone to give you all the answers... more info would be helpful to guide you.
Thanks for the reply. My goal is to make a little over 300 ish. I know I’ll need to upgrade my fuel pump, injectors, Throttle Body, MAF Sensor. I want to know what parts will be the bottleneck. What pushrods, roller rockers I’ll need.
Hi TonyMano,
Heads & Intake have been discussed literally thousands of times. A search would reveal days of reading with great information. Message board responses take a bit of time nowadays, but the information can be very helpful.
A piece to consider if you are doing heads & intake is your camshaft. After taking the heads off you will have most of the work done to swap the camshaft.
You don't have to swap the camshaft, but it is a whole lot easier to get to 300 hp if you do.
Other than the cam, most of the other supporting parts can be added as you go.
Some aftermarket parts will require a custom tune after installation. Choose carefully and you can avoid this expense for a bit while you get some seat time with the upgrades.
Heads & Intake have been discussed literally thousands of times. A search would reveal days of reading with great information. Message board responses take a bit of time nowadays, but the information can be very helpful.
A piece to consider if you are doing heads & intake is your camshaft. After taking the heads off you will have most of the work done to swap the camshaft.
You don't have to swap the camshaft, but it is a whole lot easier to get to 300 hp if you do.
Other than the cam, most of the other supporting parts can be added as you go.
Some aftermarket parts will require a custom tune after installation. Choose carefully and you can avoid this expense for a bit while you get some seat time with the upgrades.
You mention the cam you have isn't stock... what is it? That is one of if not THE most important part of how the car will drive on the street and how easy it will be to tune it, not to mention where and how it will make power. You didn't mention how you'd like to use the car either, street/strip/auto-x/road course/other?
I'd recommend talking to Ed Curtis at Flowtech Induction as he can put together the entire package for you designed to meet your goals. Or go with something like the off the shelf Trick Flow Top End kit which will give you about 300 RWHP and then you just need a new fuel pump, injectors, and tune.
I'd recommend talking to Ed Curtis at Flowtech Induction as he can put together the entire package for you designed to meet your goals. Or go with something like the off the shelf Trick Flow Top End kit which will give you about 300 RWHP and then you just need a new fuel pump, injectors, and tune.
There is a bunch of info here: https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/technical-thread-how-to-index.808661/
There is more to it than just having a HP goal like where your HP and torque come in at what RPM range, also factor in trans type, rear gear, ignore these things and you'll likely end up with a pooch that will not pass a golf cart.
There is more to it than just having a HP goal like where your HP and torque come in at what RPM range, also factor in trans type, rear gear, ignore these things and you'll likely end up with a pooch that will not pass a golf cart.
Here is a great thread. Same goal, 300 hp. Check out post #5.
stangnet.com
These cars are fun with 250 hp., even more so with near 300. If you haven't done the supporting mods for higher power now is a great time to do that. It really enhances the fun to drive factor. Things such as brakes, gears, shocks, springs, suspension, are all important things to consider when spending your money. Especially brakes. Stopping power was questionable at stock power levels.
Budget 300 Hp 5.0
Hello ive got an 86 5.0 im looking for some ideas and advise for building a 300 hp 5.0 on a budget. Id like to keep the bill under or around $1500. Has anyone done something like this. Im understanding that having an 86 ive got differant pistons and heads will this be ok for my goal
stangnet.com
These cars are fun with 250 hp., even more so with near 300. If you haven't done the supporting mods for higher power now is a great time to do that. It really enhances the fun to drive factor. Things such as brakes, gears, shocks, springs, suspension, are all important things to consider when spending your money. Especially brakes. Stopping power was questionable at stock power levels.
They will help, not a requirement for 300 hp. Removing each bottleneck gets you a little bit closer.
If you want to get the most out of the combo I would recommend:
Headers and mid-pipe (shorties are easier and cheaper but long tubes will make more power)
Upgraded fuel pump ( a 155 will be plenty)
ARP head bolts or studs
stud mount roller rockers, ratio depending on what aftermarket cam you currently have
new push rods and lifters (I have AFR 165s and used stock length Comp push rods and Ford racing lifters on mine)
New gaskets of course. AFR lists their recommendations for gaskets here:
AFR 165 head recommendations
Send that Explorer lower to Tmoss for porting or follow his guide and port it yourself
30lb injectors
75mm MAF calibrated for the injectors
65 or 70mm throttle body
What cam do you currently have?
You COULD make the stock injectors, MAF, fuel pump, and throttle body work but it's going to really restrict the potential of the combo. There's a reason the engineers at Ford used a larger MAF, throttle body, and injectors on the '93 Cobras.
Its a shameless plug but I have a set of Crane 1.6:1 stud mount roller rockers for sale here:
stangnet.com
For Sale - Crane Energizer Roller Rockers - 3/8" Stud Mount
Pulled these off my car due to some slight interference with the valve spring retainers (see picture). I am selling them with brand new poly locks as I reused the ones on the car due to the girdles. Price is $100 plus shipping. I believe they are good up to about 450 lbs/in on spring rate...
stangnet.com
If I were have to guess what cam I have, it's probably a E303 with an addition of an op transmission.
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'On crack' is a nutshell on how I explain it. Basically, the transmission is so strong that I don't rev match it, instead I mph match it.
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