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Resolved I need a guide installing AFR 165 heads and 97 Explorer Upper/Lower Intake

  • Thread starter Thread starter TonyMano
  • Start date Start date Jul 17, 2023
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TonyMano

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I got a stock 90 Mustang LX 5.0 (except cam), So what is all the supporting part that I will need to upgrade?
 

TonyMano

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TonyMano

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bird_dog0347

still married haven't seen testicles in years
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TonyMano said:
I got a stock 90 Mustang LX 5.0 (except cam), So what is all the supporting part that I will need to upgrade?
Click to expand...
Technically you don't HAVE to do anything other than the gaskets, rockers (different type), pushrods likely, and measure for PTV clearance. That said, you haven't stated your goals or problem statement, just a generic post asking for someone to give you all the answers... more info would be helpful to guide you.
 
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TonyMano

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bird_dog0347 said:
Technically you don't HAVE to do anything other than the gaskets, rockers (different type), pushrods likely, and measure for PTV clearance. That said, you haven't stated your goals or problem statement, just a generic post asking for someone to give you all the answers... more info would be helpful to guide you.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply. My goal is to make a little over 300 ish. I know I’ll need to upgrade my fuel pump, injectors, Throttle Body, MAF Sensor. I want to know what parts will be the bottleneck. What pushrods, roller rockers I’ll need.
 
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slow84lx

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Hi TonyMano,
Heads & Intake have been discussed literally thousands of times. A search would reveal days of reading with great information. Message board responses take a bit of time nowadays, but the information can be very helpful.

A piece to consider if you are doing heads & intake is your camshaft. After taking the heads off you will have most of the work done to swap the camshaft.

You don't have to swap the camshaft, but it is a whole lot easier to get to 300 hp if you do.

Other than the cam, most of the other supporting parts can be added as you go.

Some aftermarket parts will require a custom tune after installation. Choose carefully and you can avoid this expense for a bit while you get some seat time with the upgrades.
 
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slow84lx

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You will need a better fuel pump sooner rather than later.

Pushrod length will need to be measured when you install the heads, as will piston to valve clearance.

Stock rockers, injectors, throttle body, & MAF will work for 300 hp.
 

bird_dog0347

still married haven't seen testicles in years
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You mention the cam you have isn't stock... what is it? That is one of if not THE most important part of how the car will drive on the street and how easy it will be to tune it, not to mention where and how it will make power. You didn't mention how you'd like to use the car either, street/strip/auto-x/road course/other?

I'd recommend talking to Ed Curtis at Flowtech Induction as he can put together the entire package for you designed to meet your goals. Or go with something like the off the shelf Trick Flow Top End kit which will give you about 300 RWHP and then you just need a new fuel pump, injectors, and tune.
 
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TonyMano

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slow84lx said:
You will need a better fuel pump sooner rather than later.

Pushrod length will need to be measured when you install the heads, as will piston to valve clearance.

Stock rockers, injectors, throttle body, & MAF will work for 300 hp.
Click to expand...
I thought I will need a 70mm MAF and Throttle Body.
 

TonyMano

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bird_dog0347 said:
You mention the cam you have isn't stock... what is it? That is one of if not THE most important part of how the car will drive on the street and how easy it will be to tune it, not to mention where and how it will make power. You didn't mention how you'd like to use the car either, street/strip/auto-x/road course/other?

I'd recommend talking to Ed Curtis at Flowtech Induction as he can put together the entire package for you designed to meet your goals. Or go with something like the off the shelf Trick Flow Top End kit which will give you about 300 RWHP and then you just need a new fuel pump, injectors, and tune.
Click to expand...
Thanks
bird_dog0347 said:
You mention the cam you have isn't stock... what is it? That is one of if not THE most important part of how the car will drive on the street and how easy it will be to tune it, not to mention where and how it will make power. You didn't mention how you'd like to use the car either, street/strip/auto-x/road course/other?

I'd recommend talking to Ed Curtis at Flowtech Induction as he can put together the entire package for you designed to meet your goals. Or go with something like the off the shelf Trick Flow Top End kit which will give you about 300 RWHP and then you just need a new fuel pump, injectors, and tune.
Click to expand...
It’s for street and thanks.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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There is a bunch of info here: https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/technical-thread-how-to-index.808661/
There is more to it than just having a HP goal like where your HP and torque come in at what RPM range, also factor in trans type, rear gear, ignore these things and you'll likely end up with a pooch that will not pass a golf cart.
 
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TonyMano

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General karthief said:
There is a bunch of info here: https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/technical-thread-how-to-index.808661/
There is more to it than just having a HP goal like where your HP and torque come in at what RPM range, also factor in trans type, rear gear, ignore these things and you'll likely end up with a pooch that will not pass a golf cart.
Click to expand...
Oh, I do have a T5 transmission on crack.
 
S

slow84lx

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#13
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Here is a great thread. Same goal, 300 hp. Check out post #5.

Budget 300 Hp 5.0

Hello ive got an 86 5.0 im looking for some ideas and advise for building a 300 hp 5.0 on a budget. Id like to keep the bill under or around $1500. Has anyone done something like this. Im understanding that having an 86 ive got differant pistons and heads will this be ok for my goal
stangnet.com

These cars are fun with 250 hp., even more so with near 300. If you haven't done the supporting mods for higher power now is a great time to do that. It really enhances the fun to drive factor. Things such as brakes, gears, shocks, springs, suspension, are all important things to consider when spending your money. Especially brakes. Stopping power was questionable at stock power levels.
 
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slow84lx

clean it good before insertion
Jul 3, 2005
372
180
63
Dallas, TX
Jul 17, 2023
#14
  • Jul 17, 2023
  • #14
TonyMano said:
I thought I will need a 70mm MAF and Throttle Body.
Click to expand...
They will help, not a requirement for 300 hp. Removing each bottleneck gets you a little bit closer.
 
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Dan02gt

mazing how much gas smell came from that tiny hole
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  • Jul 21, 2023
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TonyMano said:
I got a stock 90 Mustang LX 5.0 (except cam), So what is all the supporting part that I will need to upgrade?
Click to expand...
If you want to get the most out of the combo I would recommend:

Headers and mid-pipe (shorties are easier and cheaper but long tubes will make more power)
Upgraded fuel pump ( a 155 will be plenty)
ARP head bolts or studs
stud mount roller rockers, ratio depending on what aftermarket cam you currently have
new push rods and lifters (I have AFR 165s and used stock length Comp push rods and Ford racing lifters on mine)
New gaskets of course. AFR lists their recommendations for gaskets here:
AFR 165 head recommendations

Send that Explorer lower to Tmoss for porting or follow his guide and port it yourself
30lb injectors
75mm MAF calibrated for the injectors
65 or 70mm throttle body

What cam do you currently have?

You COULD make the stock injectors, MAF, fuel pump, and throttle body work but it's going to really restrict the potential of the combo. There's a reason the engineers at Ford used a larger MAF, throttle body, and injectors on the '93 Cobras.
 
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AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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Its a shameless plug but I have a set of Crane 1.6:1 stud mount roller rockers for sale here:

For Sale - Crane Energizer Roller Rockers - 3/8" Stud Mount

Pulled these off my car due to some slight interference with the valve spring retainers (see picture). I am selling them with brand new poly locks as I reused the ones on the car due to the girdles. Price is $100 plus shipping. I believe they are good up to about 450 lbs/in on spring rate...
stangnet.com
 
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TonyMano

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Jul 10, 2023
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Jul 21, 2023
#17
  • Jul 21, 2023
  • #17
Dan02gt said:
If you want to get the most out of the combo I would recommend:

Headers and mid-pipe (shorties are easier and cheaper but long tubes will make more power)
Upgraded fuel pump ( a 155 will be plenty)
ARP head bolts or studs
stud mount roller rockers, ratio depending on what aftermarket cam you currently have
new push rods and lifters (I have AFR 165s and used stock length Comp push rods and Ford racing lifters on mine)
New gaskets of course. AFR lists their recommendations for gaskets here:
AFR 165 head recommendations

Send that Explorer lower to Tmoss for porting or follow his guide and port it yourself
30lb injectors
75mm MAF calibrated for the injectors
65 or 70mm throttle body

What cam do you currently have?

You COULD make the stock injectors, MAF, fuel pump, and throttle body work but it's going to really restrict the potential of the combo. There's a reason the engineers at Ford used a larger MAF, throttle body, and injectors on the '93 Cobras.
Click to expand...
If I were have to guess what cam I have, it's probably a E303 with an addition of an op transmission.
 
Last edited: Jul 21, 2023

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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Jul 21, 2023
#18
  • Jul 21, 2023
  • #18
“op transmission”?
 
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TonyMano

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AeroCoupe said:
“op transmission”?
Click to expand...
Basically a T5 Transmisison on crack.
 
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TonyMano

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#20
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TonyMano said:
Basically a T5 Transmisison on crack.
Click to expand...
'On crack' is a nutshell on how I explain it. Basically, the transmission is so strong that I don't rev match it, instead I mph match it.
 
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