Well the idea was to keep the 4.6 for the time being and pull a junked 302, rebuild it, put some better heads on it, mild cam, then maybe some headers ans reinstall it in the carSell the car and buy a 94/95 if you want a pushrod. I'm not sure why you want to go slower though.
Sell the car and buy a 94/95 if you want a pushrod. I'm not sure why you want to go slower though.
Hello! New here, I am a young enthusiast that is eager to learn about cars, I recently bought a 1998 GT with a 5 speed and the 4.6 V8, I am contemplating swapping in a 302 as their parts are cheaper and easier to obtain, from what I have been reading its prettt expensive/difficult to build a 4.6, let me know what yall think and how to do it Thanks
Definitely would not drop a push rod 5.0 in there.
Whatever you read about 4.6's being hard to build must have been old school advice. There is a huge aftermarket of parts and tons of options to go fast.
I would first do all the routine maintenance that is due (and learn to do it yourself) and get your car in good shape. Examples: spark plugs, oil change, new coolant, flush brake lines, check all your rubber hoses and belts, new shocks/struts (I'm partial to bilsteins), and get tires that match your goals (wider rims usually and the stickiest street tire you can afford nitto 555's from Americanmuscle.com is a good street tire for your power level).
After you get everything in great order i'd stiffen up the chassis with something like this: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Chassis-Brace-Package-1998-04-Mustang-HT-GT-P313.aspx
Your car will then be in great shape for any further mods (boost and suspension parts are always great ideas)[/QUOTE well where can I find parts for it? i have been having trouble finding parts within my price bracket it seems like these mod motors are really expensive to build
Well hypothetically speaking could you tell me what would be required to swap in a 302, just to be clear, the plan would be to rebuild a junked engine and just keep it on a stand and replace stuff like the heads, cam, etc. with after market components and then when its all done swap it into my car, im not working with the biggest budget so its gotta be a gradual thing yaknowThere's no way I'd do that conversion and I'm a 5oh type. Maybe if it were a 96/97 but that motor you have runs pretty well. You'd have to scrap the whole motor, k-member, harness, all sensors, and the ECU and replace it all with push-rod stuff, not to mention adapting transmission, gauge clusters, air-bags... the list goes on.
All you really need to do is boost what you got or build it a little and then boost it. Superchargers are simple to install. Tuning is the biggest hurdle (better to have this setup in advance or along with install).
Can it be done? Certainly. Is it worth it? Meh... Maybe if you have something like this in mind:
Also i would like to beat any Z28 that pulls up next to meMy budget is no more than $3000
I want some "low buck" speed, yes it has to pass inspection and im not looking for much more than 300rwhp and i would prefer to make such power goals reliably and i already have a decent understanding of basic maintenance, i want more oomph to my ride and i have people that will help me do the work, by the way i dont have 3grand just laying around im just saying i wouldnt want to spend much more than that, i just need to know the ins and outs of a 302 swap and how well it would work put in the long run
Thanks
Next question. What are your plans for engine management? With having to pass inspection that means because your current car is ODB2 then it will have to remain compatible with ODB2 afterwards to pass inspection.My budget is no more than $3000
I want some "low buck" speed, yes it has to pass inspection
Just to make sure. We are talking about a 500 HP Chevrolet Camaro Z/28 right? To beat a 500 HP car with a 300 HP car would require a serious weight reduction advantage. Likely means that you will be driving a car with no interior and only one seat.Also i would like to beat any Z28 that pulls up next to me
No i was just joking around with that lol i dont intend on racing a whole lot of people i just wanna go fastNext question. What are your plans for engine management? With having to pass inspection that means because your current car is ODB2 then it will have to remain compatible with ODB2 afterwards to pass inspection.
Have you considered how you would get around the "visual inspection" part of any ODB2 level inspection?
Have you priced things like:
I don't see all of that coming in less than 3k. But you should be the one to price this out and see for yourself.
- the motor itself
- the planned upgrades to the motor
- new K-member
- new transmission
- new drive shaft
- engine management system.
- and so on.
Just to make sure. We are talking about a 500 HP Chevrolet Camaro Z/28 right? To beat a 500 HP car with a 300 HP car would require a serious weight reduction advantage. Likely means that you will be driving a car with no interior and only one seat.
Definitely would not drop a push rod 5.0 in there.
Whatever you read about 4.6's being hard to build must have been old school advice. There is a huge aftermarket of parts and tons of options to go fast.
I would first do all the routine maintenance that is due (and learn to do it yourself) and get your car in good shape. Examples: spark plugs, oil change, new coolant, flush brake lines, check all your rubber hoses and belts, new shocks/struts (I'm partial to bilsteins), and get tires that match your goals (wider rims usually and the stickiest street tire you can afford nitto 555's from Americanmuscle.com is a good street tire for your power level).
After you get everything in great order i'd stiffen up the chassis with something like this: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Chassis-Brace-Package-1998-04-Mustang-HT-GT-P313.aspx
Your car will then be in great shape for any further mods (boost and suspension parts are always great ideas)
The 4.6L engine isn't too hard to work on and can actually be easy once you learn and have knowledge of these engines. Having once owned a 94 GT I can tell you from experience that the 5.0 302 push rod engine can be more complicated to work on and diagnose. It is not worth the money/time spent to install a 5.0 302 in your 98 GT. If you are dead set on a 5.0 302 just sell your 98 GT and purchase a 94 or 95 GT it would be the best choice. If you keep your 98 GT depending on what direction you want to take with your car upgrading your car for forced induction would be wise. Forge your internals and go forced induction would be my advice.I would first do all the routine maintenance that is due (and learn to do it yourself) and get your car in good shape. Examples: spark plugs, oil change, new coolant, flush brake lines, check all your rubber hoses and belts, new shocks/struts (I'm partial to bilsteins), and get tires that match your goals (wider rims usually and the stickiest street tire you can afford nitto 555's from Americanmuscle.com is a good street tire for your power level).
Thanks for the tips i think ive got the idea now Now just out of general curiosity what if I was to do a 3v swap and then a blower? Would that give better power? It should be a direct swap right, assuming i can find a lower mileage wrecked stang in a junkyard or something
I gotcha i appreciate the insight although i am not the most experienced i am pretty capable of performing maintenance on my vehicle and i have people to help me along the way, would it be possible to just pull a 3v from a wrecked stang wiring harness and all? I couldnt imagine the junkyard charging too much for the whole set, and again this is all a hypothetical im just exploring my optionsThis swap has been done a number of times. The advantage is that you are going from a modular to a modular platfor. The downside is to get the full 3v bang for buck you need the 3v full wiring harness $1600~). See this article for a variety of common swaps. http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/engine/mdmp-1004-modular-engine-swap-wiring/
While the swap is interesting..... again if your budget is tight and you are just learning- a motor swap to another engine type is a ton of work and you can run into tons of speed bumps.
Electrically the 1999-2004 is a very different car than the 2005+ model year. Unless you are trying to re-engineer the whole car (electrically) the way to do a 3V swap is to retain the ORIGINAL wiring harness and PCM. What most people do is to use the 3V cam phases lock outs to "fix/lock" the cam timing. The 2V PCM will run a 3V motor with a tune.would it be possible to just pull a 3v from a wrecked stang wiring harness and all?
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