Progress Thread Jewel Green street/strip 92 LX progress thread

Another update, Machine shop is slowwww on the spacers for running a 2.75 Molnar crank in the 351 block. Apparently the conversation bearings are out of stock, so he is using a Cleavland race bearing, has to cut the adapter for that bearing tang which is different then the conversion bearing. He is good so I know it will be done right and worth the wait. He also found this block was off .005 from bank to bank, it is milled and squared now. It will be for sale soon....keep reading.

Then I was checking FB market place Thursday and bought this for 3K, so now we are at 427cid, it was a blower motor so cam and billet Gibtec pistons will be sold to offset some of the cost. This is a RPM MAXX with 4.125" bore, it has 4" Eagle crank and 6.2 rods. So tearing this thing down and putting my Molnar crank and rods in this block, still targeting 10:5:1 compression. On the fence on SR cam or HR, I already have the SR Crane Lifters from the 331.

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Another update, Machine shop is slowwww on the spacers for running a 2.75 Molnar crank in the 351 block. Apparently the conversation bearings are out of stock, so he is using a Cleavland race bearing, has to cut the adapter for that bearing tang which is different then the conversion bearing. He is good so I know it will be done right and worth the wait. He also found this block was off .005 from bank to bank, it is milled and squared now. It will be for sale soon....keep reading.

Then I was checking FB market place Thursday and bought this for 3K, so now we are at 427cid, it was a blower motor so cam and billet Gibtec pistons will be sold to offset some of the cost. This is a RPM MAXX with 4.125" bore, it has 4" Eagle crank and 6.2 rods. So tearing this thing down and putting my Molnar crank and rods in this block, still targeting 10:5:1 compression. On the fence on SR cam or HR, I already have the SR Crane Lifters from the 331.

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I saw that on FB and saved it. That was a heckuva' deal!
 
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Im curious what you were going to run set up wise for the 408w. I have a 351 w in storage that had been machined etc sitting in plastic on a stand. I want to do a 408 but this block is 40 over. I have the block, dizzy, and TF R series intake for 351. I wanted to run my current heads I have on the car which a TFS 11R 190s with 56cc chambers. I’m not sure what I would need to get, I’m guessing rods and crank I could just run the 4340 forges or cast crank at 4.000 and 6.2 rods of choice I or H etc. I don’t know what to do from pistons due to the head chamber CC and to have compression ratio that is good for just a fun street cruiser. No track days that I could foresee, just street cruiser, show car etc.
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Im curious what you were going to run set up wise for the 408w. I have a 351 w in storage that had been machined etc sitting in plastic on a stand. I want to do a 408 but this block is 40 over. I have the block, dizzy, and TF R series intake for 351. I wanted to run my current heads I have on the car which a TFS 11R 190s with 56cc chambers. I’m not sure what I would need to get, I’m guessing rods and crank I could just run the 4340 forget or fast crank at 4.000 and 6.2 rods of choice I or H etc. I don’t know what to do from pistons due to the head chamber CC and to have compression ratio that is good for just a fun street cruiser. No track days that I could foresee, just street cruiser, show car etc.
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I am in a similar situation with my heads. The AFR 205's are 58cc due to the 331 set up. So to run them on my on the 351 block using a 4" crank with 6.250" rods. To get to the target compression of under 11:1 my machine shop found a off the shelf Mahle 4.040 piston with 26cc dish. That puts the compression around 10.2:1, they also make a 4.125 piston with a 26cc dish and that will only bump my compression up to about 10.5:1.
 
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I am in a similar situation with my heads. The AFR 205's are 58cc due to the 331 set up. So to run them on my on the 351 block using a 4" crank with 6.250" rods. To get to the target compression of under 11:1 my machine shop found an off the shelf Mahle 4.040 piston with 26cc dish. That puts the compression around 10.2:1, they also make a 4.125 piston with a 26cc dish and that will only bump my compression up to about 10.5:1.
Thanks man I’ll have to look into those. This is where it gets beyond my knowledge of building etc. I just want to have a build sheet to slowly gather parts until I have everything and then do the big swap.
 
Just to bring the latest update.

Block is cleaned and started assembly after coating the block with Glyptal.

Also building a 410cid stock block short block to sell, the RPM Maxx is going together first.

Anyway got the crankshaft final installed today.
Starting to gather info to send to FTI for a custom SR camshaft.
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Stuffed the pistons and rods last weekend. I ran into some issues with the wrist pin clips—first they were the wrong diameter, and then the wrist pins were too long. But that’s engine building for you!
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Since the FTI camshaft finally arrived on Friday, I spent yesterday fitting it with dual pins for the final install, used my home made installation cam tool originally made for my I6 tractor engine. I also cleaned up the heads and valvetrain and determined the pushrod length. While fitting the intake, I realized it needs to be milled; I’ll start with .100", as it’s still sitting too proud even without 062 gaskets.
While cleaning the lifters, I found a bad exhaust lifter. Now I’m looking to rebuild or possibly replace the whole set. I'll be calling BAM Lifters in the morning to see if they can rebuild these, especially since the rollers still look clean.

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You would never know the one on the left was bad until I cleaned the oil out of it.
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Bringing this back up to date...delayed as I had Mitral valve repair through my side in April. Was rough April-May. Had no prior symptoms, just that they saw heart was enlarged, and had level 3 regertation. Any way that is behind me!

Slowly getting closer!

Have car at my house now so can eventually burn in the new blank fender aprons, that will be later.

New double disc clutch! It is a shelf display/test unit unused that saved me like $400.
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Cam degreed
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Car finally home, it has been stashed at my moms house in her barn.
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new LMR fender aprons
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New LMR front cover, apparently the old cover on the 302 was off a truck of van. Since going to clockwise water pump that is not compatable.
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Verified TDC before putting heads on!
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Checking piston to valve with the soft springs.
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installing windage tray and oil pump/pickup. Verified windiage tray to rods and pickup to pan.
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Clear coated water pump, and ends of heads.
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Speed Doctor drivers side alternator bracket and Holley snipper coil bracket. Painted alternator black.
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Trying to align intake...the front ports look way off. May require welding the one side of port to get it where I want it.
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Tomorrow maybe painting block, mock up alternator/water pump and mock up intake now that heads are torqued.
 
Sweet update! Glad the heart work went well and you got through the tough months.

I'm planning a t-sump canton pan in my next build with a windage tray and crank scraper. Did you do a scraper, too?
 
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Sweet update! Glad the heart work went well and you got through the tough months.

I'm planning a t-sump canton pan in my next build with a windage tray and crank scraper. Did you do a scraper, too?
Thanks! Regarding the scraper, my machine shop actually advised skipping it and just installing the windiage tray.

If I remember correctly, the comment was about when rotating the engine on the bench; with this 4" stroke, you have to be very careful with your fingers on the pan rail. Unlike a stock stroke, where there is enough room for your whole fist, this clearance is much tighter.
 
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Mocked up the clockwise rotation water pump and alternator with Speed Doctor brackets. Moved alternator to drivers side to clean the wiring up more. Old belt used for mock up, new one will be a inch of so shorter.
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Used my neighbors camera to check port alignment. Will drop off intake at machine shop in am, 5 ports will get welded on one side. 3 ports will be welded in 3 of the 4 corners.

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Just my opinion on the scraper thing:

Deep oil pan
Street use
Just run the pan 1 qt low and forget the scraper
I'm not using a drag pan. I'll be using the T-sump style road race oriented pan. That said, I would play around with that, watching data logs on my oil pressure to make sure it never loses any.