Progress Thread Jewel Green street/strip 92 LX progress thread

[HotFox]

Not worried about the Probe shaft rockers, more worried about the lifters. I did not like the slop in them right from the start so I have shims made up that go between the rocker and the c-clip. Going on 9 years, but only about 4K miles.

Here is the video of the 11.11 pass. Car starts to move around a little off the line. I wish I could find someone who could take a look at the suspension as I really have no clue it is set up right. It is set up the way team Z set it up.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VkOTpbpZHZ4&t=1s

 

[Davedacarpainter]

That was an excellent video with your tach showing off the poor little engine screaming it's guts out!

Great time.

 

[Gear grabber]

Just did a quick scroll though all 10 pages. (Very Very Sharp !)
Saw the ARB,no roll bar ?
Looked like QA1,aluminum shocks ?
A few weeks ago,when I asked my chassis guy about,shocks/struts.
He said to stay away from the aluminum qa1 stuff. Small tire stick car
will not work with cookie cutter stuff some auto's can get away with.
Very near 126 mph,means 10.50's capable when very well sorted.

 

[HotFox]

Thanks! No roll bar...I will slow the car down before that happens.

I can't think of the name of the shocks, I think Team Z sent me up to a guy to go through them they were out west. I want to say Hail shocks or something with a H? can't explain why they have QA1 stickers on them when they came back from being rebuilt. I know the knob has like 20 clicks on them. But that is interesting about the QA1's. I will look into them.

 

[Gear grabber]

The a/f numbers on the 2 step got my attention. I am not using a 2 step (yet) so I have
nothing to go by. I would assume (I could be wrong) that on the 2 step with cylinders being
chopped a/f would go way rich,but I see some very lean numbers. even when off the 2 step
when the motor is pulling down I think I saw 15's.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Damn. Thing really screams along at 7k. Couldn't take my eyes off the tach

 

[HotFox]

The a/f numbers on the 2 step got my attention. I am not using a 2 step (yet) so I have
nothing to go by. I would assume (I could be wrong) that on the 2 step with cylinders being
chopped a/f would go way rich,but I see some very lean numbers. even when off the 2 step
when the motor is pulling down I think I saw 15's.

In my past videos I did not see anything out of ordinary on readings. When I ran earlier this year the camera was steadier and I was able to follow the ratio from start to end and with each gear change. After reviewing this again what you are seeing is a couple flashes of 15 at the end of the run with the throttle blade closed, im on the brakes and usually let it coast in 4th before downshifting or going to neutral.

Compared to the dyno it is higher, I have replaced the o2 and done recalbrations so IDK.

I was told you only need to protect peak torque for around 12-12.5 af ratio. Past that or near peak power you can lean it out a bit lets say 13-13.5.

I will be back on the dyno I hope this spring to do some tuning on the ignition. So maybe able sort it out if it is truly lean or fuel curve is off a bit. I keep a close eye on the plugs and know it is not lean.

 

[HotFox]

Just did a quick scroll though all 10 pages. (Very Very Sharp !)
Saw the ARB,no roll bar ?
Looked like QA1,aluminum shocks ?
A few weeks ago,when I asked my chassis guy about,shocks/struts.
He said to stay away from the aluminum qa1 stuff. Small tire stick car
will not work with cookie cutter stuff some auto's can get away with.
Very near 126 mph,means 10.50's capable when very well sorted.

From looking at the first picture in the thread you can see HAL shocks which mush have been bought out or merged with QA1. I printed out there instruction sheet and they have 18 adjustments which mine have so must be the same.

So what shocks does your chassis guy recommend for a violent DOT stick shift car?

 

[Gear grabber]

After reviewing this again what you are seeing is a couple flashes of 15 at the end of the run with the throttle blade closed, im on the brakes and usually let it coast in 4th before downshifting or going to neutral.

Not at the end of the run. When you are staged on the 2 step,and as the motor pulls down on the launch.

 

[Gear grabber]

There is a direct connection between cost and quality. I can not afford high end,so that stuff was
not even discussed. A short conversation,on a budget strange sa (what I had) and qa1 steel.
Asked him about the Viking da stuff that I was looking at,thought it was decent at price point.

 

[A5literMan]

I liked the strange stuff myself but I was never launching as hard as you are. The best I ever did was 1.50’s in the 60ft.

 

[Mstng93SSP]

Man that was a cool video! You car really revs eh? Also, that yellow 55 Chevy that went in front of you looked like a pretty cool car!

 

[Gear grabber]

The a/f numbers on the 2 step got my attention. I am not using a 2 step (yet) so I have
nothing to go by. I would assume (I could be wrong) that on the 2 step with cylinders being
chopped a/f would go way rich,but I see some very lean numbers. even when off the 2 step
when the motor is pulling down I think I saw 15's.

Proved my theory WRONG today,set my rev limiter at 2k and bumped it.
AFR went lean.

Just a side note,when I put the afr gauge on the car and leaned the idle
circuit down into the low 13's,the car needed quite a bit more pump shot.
www.jegs.com/i/Quick-Fuel/793/41-100QFT/10002/-1

 

[FastDriver]

Wow. I've been missing out on this build... not anymore. Love the color, and appreciate what you're doing. I'm going to try and find a guy who can do what you did with the exhaust. Do you ever run into trouble on lifts when the rear suspension extends?

 

[HotFox]

Thanks, no never had any issue. The exhaust was built with the suspension hanging so the pipes were set to almost touch the axle at that point. Knowing that the car would never be in this position. They are still higher then the mufflers.

 

[FastDriver]

Good info. I would particularly love to add tail pipes to my black '91, and I think it could be done this way.

 

[HotFox]

A little polishing with a buffing wheel and the 3M product called Finesse-it. Followed by a wax. Amazing after owing the car just under 10 years all or most of the scratches are gone! Put a new set of head lights and a nice used Ford badge that I grabbed off Ebay. Doing a car lunch car show thing at FCA HQ next Wednesday then on to Frankenmuth block party on Friday night.

Oh and for those that think I drive her hard on the street

 

[HotFox]

Just to bring this back to the top...still have it. Street car for now till my garage gets built. This was taking the wife out on one of the last drives of the year before restaurants closed and car took its winter nap.

Coming up on 10 years since this engine has been together, I have put a set of valve springs in it. Apparently someone knows how to build a engine

 

[HotFox]

My annual update. Finally started the car this weekend after sitting all winter, spring, summer, fresh oil change. Drive from my moms to my house no problem. Yesterday decided to do a cruise with me and the wife. Get there and engine has a noticeable rattle at a idle. Thinking it is valvetrain bail on the cruise and carefully drive it to my moms house. Pull the valve covers, no broken springs, lash caps missing, shaft rockers shifted. Check all the valves for excessive lash nothing crazy. Engine is due for a refresh anyway was hoping it was after my garage was built though. It sounds like cam walk almost like the cam plate is broke and the rattle is really inconsistent and oil pressure is normal and oil temp is low or not excessive so I don't think it is a rod or main.

 

[HotFox]

Annual update...
Car developed a rattle on a way to a car cruise last fall. After ruling out the rockers, I knew I needed to dig deeper a full tear down was in order, besides the short block has been together since 2009. I belive the rattle was cam end play that is now more noticeable with cam chain strech, it was like .08-.1.

I finally got around to tearing it down this spring when the weather started to break. Well after tear down everything looked really good besides cap walk and one wrist pin that was alittle tight in a rod but since it was floating no big deal. Rod bearing looked so good I planned to reuse, mains had some wear which was expected from a external balaced assembly turning over 8K. I ran everything to the machine shop to have everything maged. Well first he called and said my eagle crank is cracked in #2 main. Finally last week he got around to check the block and it is cracked in #2 bolt hole into the webbing.

So I am at a cross roads, I have always wanted to build a dart 8.2 deck 4.125x3.25 basically a big bore 347 or 363. Not sure if I want to spend the money with my garage project going. I may just buy a late 60's 302 and put it back as a 331.

Scott