Are you running SN95 axle or fox width?
This is about 1.5" of clearance on my Bullitt wheels which are 17x8 OEM'S with I believe 5.75" BS.
How much tire buldge do I need to plan for.
I think I am seeing that your right now way for 7"bs will fit.
Progress Thread Jewel Green street/strip 92 LX progress thread
- Thread starter HotFox
- Start date
Are you running SN95 axle or fox width?
This is about 1.5" of clearance on my Bullitt wheels which are 17x8 OEM'S with I believe 5.75" BS.
How much tire buldge do I need to plan for.
I think I am seeing that your right now way for 7"bs will fit.
-
Sponsors (?)
Gear grabber
Well-Known Member
- May 23, 2016
- 283
- 153
- 63
I have fox axles. With the stock 28 spline axles i was using a washer on the studs to keep it from rubbing (inside) When i went 31 spline moser,i noticed some light marks on the outside right (275/60) pulled the washers and it is ok now. It's just that close to spot on with 6.5 b/s. 26.5x11.50 QTP's will be here tomorrow,they should fit no problem...
When I was looking into 15x10's everyone told me to run 6.5" and a 28x11.5x15 is about the biggest tire you can fit and that takes some massaging of the wheel wells. That is with fox axles.
I would put a 26" x 10.5" stiff wall slick on the car, i believe the part number is 3053s. The 28" tire is too big for a stock wheel opening when you start going fast. I also think the car would be faster on the shorter tire.
Thanks Jeff
But was really pushing the RPM's in 4th with the 26" tires in the past. Remember I'm running a 4.56:1 rear gear. The first gear ratio difference between the 3550 and 600 was a major reason to go to the 600, needed that faster first gear. I also figured with the power I was making it will handle the 28" tires better.
Either way the radial isnt the right direction. I would run either the 26 or 28" bias ply MT ET street R. What is the maximum RPM you are willing to go thru the traps? Dont forget that 26" tire will actually be 27" at the big end and the 28" will be around 29"
My excel spreadsheet that i have tested against datalogs with the 26" tire is showing that 7500rpm is 132mph and 8000 is 141mph
My excel spreadsheet that i have tested against datalogs with the 26" tire is showing that 7500rpm is 132mph and 8000 is 141mph
The street R is a bada$$ tire and I think is a perfect recommendation imo. If you're trapping at that rpm I would stick with a 26" tire. Seems to be perfect spot.
Gear grabber
Well-Known Member
- May 23, 2016
- 283
- 153
- 63
That tire is 26.3 (according to mt) and will have little or no growth. As mentioned,radials don't work very well with stick cars. Mickey Thompson has nothing(size wise)in there dot,bias tires that i can use. Hoosier has several dot,bias tires,26.5,27,28,29 x11.5 (10'' tread) The 26.5's that i got today measured at 83.375'' 0r 26.50,bias ply's will grow 2 to 3 % at speed.(27+) The 2 sets of 27's i had were around 27.35 + growth.
Last edited:
Gear grabber
Well-Known Member
- May 23, 2016
- 283
- 153
- 63
http://www.tremec.com/calculadora.php
Here is a calc. to play with,26.9'' will drop you back to 7400.(-200)
Here is a calc. to play with,26.9'' will drop you back to 7400.(-200)
I agree with going to a bias with a standard trans.
You can make the radials work, but you are going to need some sort of clutch management, and a lot of suspension tuning.
And, since you are going racing, once a radial looses traction, they are done, you run is over, they do not recover well, whereas the bias is less likely to break in the first place, and when they do, they still put the power down while spinning... and they recover well to boot with a slight lift and back to the rug.
Looks like you have a shift point up over 7000rpms, I would stick with the 26" tire, have the car done at 1000'-1100' and let it hang its tongue out for the finish. Kinda scary with the stock block (if you believe all the internet folk lore, and I know yours has been frozen), but, I think that's how it'll run it's hardest.
I have not looked at bias tires for over a year now, but I went with the ET Street R... couple guys over on the "fence" switched from Hoosier QTP's are were glad they did.
You are only making 10tq more than I, and was was letting it rip from 6000rpm (4.56's with a 2.95 1st gear) on a marginal track and it was pretty consistent, even though they were rolling over 10-20 feet out. Never quite got it all figured out but was going 1.62's, spinning, on a bad track. My drag radials would simply blow off (2.3-2.6 60's) at the same track at anything over 3500, and anything below that they would hook and bog (1.9-2.0 60's). When they did blow off, no amount of easing up would let them recover, it was full off the gas and ease into 2nd. Hitting it hard again (1st or 2nd) would just lite them off again... grab 2nd and walk it out.
Razor's edge those DR's.
Bla bla bla... sorry for the long post, just sharing my experience.
You can make the radials work, but you are going to need some sort of clutch management, and a lot of suspension tuning.
And, since you are going racing, once a radial looses traction, they are done, you run is over, they do not recover well, whereas the bias is less likely to break in the first place, and when they do, they still put the power down while spinning... and they recover well to boot with a slight lift and back to the rug.
Looks like you have a shift point up over 7000rpms, I would stick with the 26" tire, have the car done at 1000'-1100' and let it hang its tongue out for the finish. Kinda scary with the stock block (if you believe all the internet folk lore, and I know yours has been frozen), but, I think that's how it'll run it's hardest.
I have not looked at bias tires for over a year now, but I went with the ET Street R... couple guys over on the "fence" switched from Hoosier QTP's are were glad they did.
You are only making 10tq more than I, and was was letting it rip from 6000rpm (4.56's with a 2.95 1st gear) on a marginal track and it was pretty consistent, even though they were rolling over 10-20 feet out. Never quite got it all figured out but was going 1.62's, spinning, on a bad track. My drag radials would simply blow off (2.3-2.6 60's) at the same track at anything over 3500, and anything below that they would hook and bog (1.9-2.0 60's). When they did blow off, no amount of easing up would let them recover, it was full off the gas and ease into 2nd. Hitting it hard again (1st or 2nd) would just lite them off again... grab 2nd and walk it out.
Razor's edge those DR's.
Bla bla bla... sorry for the long post, just sharing my experience.
Thanks for all the comments guys! I guess I have a lot to learn about tires. I relate my radial experience to dirt racing-tractor pulling and farming. The radial is far superior for that type of use. I thought with the flex in the side wall that absorbs the shock from the manual drivetrain.
I am glad there is a DOT bias that I will now be leaning toward. I still would like to go a touch taller then 26", maybe 27". Just to pull the rpms down 2-300.
Thanks again,
Scott
I am glad there is a DOT bias that I will now be leaning toward. I still would like to go a touch taller then 26", maybe 27". Just to pull the rpms down 2-300.
Thanks again,
Scott
The 26" slick should be just over 27" at 130mph. You could call Mickey Thompson for exact growth numbers at your trap speed. Also, you could order them from a tire place that matches tires for rollout, and get the biggest diameter matched set they have in stock. If you do go with the bias ply ET street R, i would also recommend tubes and screws to help stiffen the sidewall up and that will also help with air retention.
Received the rims today and of course had to check them out. There 17x4.5. Probably another month or so before tires.
Very cool. Looks great!
