Resolved Medussa's hair is in Mustang.

Did you KOER in the driveway?

The car should be heat soaked before Engine Running codes are run. That would be the code 21.
Yes in the garage for both koeo,koer. I did not warm it up first.
So I'm down to 87 fuel pump primary circuit fault and 46 the thermactor air not bypassed, dis system failure?
 
Good info on Code 87 via da man jrichker here:


I will say that this could be an issue with the fuel pump relay and/or the ECU power relay as the coil side of the fuel pump relay gets it power from the ECU power relay. The other thing that could be affecting this is an intermittant (read corroded) fusible link.

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Under my maf meter is two relays,which one is the fuel pump?
And coming from the starter solenoid a thick yellow wire splits into three black wires with fuse links. How do I tell if they are good?
 
Ok I peeled back the taped up wires to see the colors and which one is the fuel pump relay.
On the fuse link I still have to peel back that dried out ,hard as a rock wire wrap to see which one is for the fuel pump.
 
Yeah I unwrapped the tape to see the colors so I had the right one , it clicks with power applied and ohms out correct. But I'm stilll getting a new one cause it could be I intermittent and its only $27 . I've read they fail sometimes when other things draw current.
I check fuse links and all is good, after all this checking I started her up and ran till warm, idled great and didn't cut off with radio on and fan kicking on and off. I even ran the a/c and she stayed on.

Plan is replace relay and reset codes,then drive and see what happens,recheck codes.
 
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Relays wear out just like everything else. The coil can get weak and the contacts can wear. They have so many duty cycles that they are rated at.

I replaced the ECU power relay, FP relay, and WOT AC cutoff relays about ten years ago. The ECU relay is a specific one but the other two I was able to replace with a Bosch 30A relay.

I was getting a goofy intermittent wouldn’t start every once in a while. This lead me to the ECU relay so I figured while I was in there I’d replace the others. I’m not saying this is your issue just saying they do wear out.
 
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Ill look into getting the ecu one next , sounds like good advice and is appreciated.
I was thinking about getting the wot one since I'm replacing the one next to it anyway, so they are the same ones?
Standard motor products ry214 is the one for fp , I didn't see one for wot.
 
I replaced the fps relay, erased the codes and took her for a spin. She cut off at the stop light, restarted and came home.
I pulled codes and this time koeo -11 and 8 yes just a single number 8 ???
koer - 46 just 46 ???
 
Wtf, I went to put back my coil I changed out when all this :poo: started and the screws were loose? I put the newer coil back and made sure the screws were tight. When I test drove it she didn't stall, but did a little bucking at the end of a long test drive. I ordered a ecu power relay( standard ry71) from Amazon should be here tommarow. Wife is going to have to drive me to work and back. Ill change it when I get home.
I'm about to lose my mind.
Up in here.
 
Today after the fuel pump relay replacement she went about a quarter mile and stalled, after the coil replace and she went without stalling for two miles and then sputtered but didn't stall. I just installed the second motor craft tfi( first one was bad out the box). She won't stay running at all. Put that master pro one back on and she runs but I noticed she's a little rough idle.
I removed the pass. Kick panel to look for the power relay,and where the he'll did they hide it????
Do you have to remove the blower box, ecu?