MS DIYPNP fuel pressure input

Sparky714

Active Member
Oct 16, 2015
185
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North Dakota
#1
I'm going to add a pressure transducer to be able to monitor and datalog fuel pressure. I think I've got the wiring figured out, I can use ADC1 or ADC2 inputs. But I'm not sure how to set it up in Tunerstudio. @a91what Can you help me out Steve?
 
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a91what

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Mod Dude
Apr 6, 2011
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#2
sure i can
-tools
-custom channel editor
create new channel and name it.
choose your input channel
-linear input
ADC conversion - 10bit
- fill in you volts vs pressure.
 

a91what

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#4
no problem! i actually have a bunch of extra sensors on my car so if you run into any trouble i have been down this road before.
 

Blown88GT

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1999
1,137
141
104
Palm Beach Gardens, FL
#7
What you ordered is the same one i was looking at.
Until I saw this thread, didn't know these inexpensive ones were available. I have a gauge on the schrader valve which has the schrader to 1/8" NPT adapter. I'd have to create a "T", don't want to give up the mechanical gauge under the hood.
http://performancefuelsystems.com/products.htm
16_1104_Algis76886copy.jpg


Monitoring fuel pressure under load would be very useful.
I'm using ADC2 for the MAF. ADC1 is still available.
BTW, there are unused pins on the Ford connector, I've already used pin-41 for the WBO2.
Different years may vary, spares for mine are: 5, 8, 11, 18, 28, 39, 41, 44, 51, 55

The DIY might be a bit easier to modify than the PNP, but both use the Microsquirt Module.
 

Sparky714

Active Member
Oct 16, 2015
185
83
48
55
North Dakota
#8
What you ordered is the same one i was looking at.
Until I saw this thread, didn't know these inexpensive ones were available. I have a gauge on the schrader valve which has the schrader to 1/8" NPT adapter. I'd have to create a "T", don't want to give up the mechanical gauge under the hood.
http://performancefuelsystems.com/products.htm
View attachment 620585

Monitoring fuel pressure under load would be very useful.
I'm using ADC2 for the MAF. ADC1 is still available.
BTW, there are unused pins on the Ford connector, I've already used pin-41 for the WBO2.
Different years may vary, spares for mine are: 5, 8, 11, 18, 28, 39, 41, 44, 51, 55

The DIY might be a bit easier to modify than the PNP, but both use the Microsquirt Module.
I have a gauge on the schrader valve also. I bought a 1/8" brass 90 and a 1/8" brass T fitting and run the gauge straight up and the transducer out the side of the T.
 

Blown88GT

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1999
1,137
141
104
Palm Beach Gardens, FL
#9
I was going to do something the same. You can just about see it peeking out in this pic. Have all the fittings except for a short or close nipple, left over from troubleshooting the fuel pump before the Megasquirt.
I need to get it up higher to clear the intake hose.
Where do you use the 1/8" brass 90?
It's a lower priority. Need to get the driveshaft back in & the road in front of my house finished, can't get out my driveway.
IMG_1140 (small).jpg
 
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Sparky714

Active Member
Oct 16, 2015
185
83
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55
North Dakota
#10
I was going to do something the same. You can just about see it peeking out in this pic. Have all the fittings except for a short or close nipple, left over from troubleshooting the fuel pump before the Megasquirt.
I need to get it up higher to clear the intake hose.
Where do you use the 1/8" brass 90?
It's a lower priority. Need to get the driveshaft back in & the road in front of my house finished, can't get out my driveway.
My gauge is in the same location as yours. I used the 90 in the end of the schrader adapter to turn it up , then into the "T" , then gauge on top. Once you add the "T", you'll have the same setup I've got.
 

Blown88GT

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1999
1,137
141
104
Palm Beach Gardens, FL
#11
Mine now looks like you described yours. Have to figure out the wiring. Pretty much like the MAF which is on AD2.
Choose 3 spare pins on the Ford 60-pin..
I've already used pin-41 for the WBO2. The MAF pins were already connected to the maf but not all were wired to the main board.
Spares for mine are: 5, 8, 11, 18, 28, 39, (41), 44, 51, 55 . The last 3 look like good candidates.
I have spare pins with wires already attached from a connector cut off from a junkyard donor.
My main board is different from yours.
Pressure Signal - ADC1 (to the left of ADC2)
+5V - 5V (my higher res pics show some on P17)
Gnd - SG (Signal Ground, some on bottom edge)
IMG_0582.JPG
 
Oct 16, 2015
185
83
48
55
North Dakota
#12
Mine now looks like you described yours. Have to figure out the wiring. Pretty much like the MAF which is on AD2.
Choose 3 spare pins on the Ford 60-pin..
I've already used pin-41 for the WBO2. The MAF pins were already connected to the maf but not all were wired to the main board.
Spares for mine are: 5, 8, 11, 18, 28, 39, (41), 44, 51, 55 . The last 3 look like good candidates.
I have spare pins with wires already attached from a connector cut off from a junkyard donor.
My main board is different from yours.
Pressure Signal - ADC1 (to the left of ADC2)
+5V - 5V (my higher res pics show some on P17)
Gnd - SG (Signal Ground, some on bottom edge)
View attachment 620832
Do yo have the EGR deleted? I used the EGR connector. In the DIYPNP it is already connected to +5v and ground. I just had to add a jumper from the main harness connector to ADC1 and configure it.
 

Blown88GT

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1999
1,137
141
104
Palm Beach Gardens, FL
#13
Do yo have the EGR deleted? I used the EGR connector. In the DIYPNP it is already connected to +5v and ground. I just had to add a jumper from the main harness connector to ADC1 and configure it.
EGR not deleted.
DIYPNP does not connect EGR by default. You must have connected it.
Need to use Vref instead of 5V.
I should have re-read my own Assembly Manual written 5 years ago.

It's best to not get Vref & SG from the sensors. Get them from the ECU or you could create an unintended ground loop & erratic sensor readings for all the sensors. Add 3 wires from the 60-pin Ford connector to the pressure sensor. Then add 3 wires from the Connector Board to the Main Board.

DIYPNP has these:

VREF (pin-26 on Adapter Board): This connection provides a 5 volt reference voltage for the throttle position sensor, and can be used for some other types of sensors, such as external MAP sensors. These connections are usually marked with something like "5V," "VREF," or "Reference Voltage" in the factory wiring diagram. Caution: Do not let the VREF connection be shorted to ground - this will shut down the DIYPNP.

5V: The DIYPNP has a second power supply for 5 volt circuits that are isolated from the
main reference voltage. Usually you won't need to connect this to any external wires (it's
more useful for onboard circuits), though if you run across a Hall effect or optical sensor in
the external wiring that needs to be supplied 5 volt power, use this jumper.

SG (pins-16 & 60 on Adapter Board): Sensor ground. If you have common ground wires coming back from external sensors,
connect the pins these wires use to the SG jumper. This is to reduce the amount of noise in signal wires.

I wrote the Manual based on their old website, but DIY insisted the copyright notice on the 1st page.
 

Attachments

Oct 16, 2015
185
83
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55
North Dakota
#14
EGR not deleted.
DIYPNP does not connect EGR by default. You must have connected it.
Need to use Vref instead of 5V.
I should have re-read my own Assembly Manual written 5 years ago.

It's best to not get Vref & SG from the sensors. Get them from the ECU or you could create an unintended ground loop & erratic sensor readings for all the sensors. Add 3 wires from the 60-pin Ford connector to the pressure sensor. Then add 3 wires from the Connector Board to the Main Board.

DIYPNP has these:

VREF (pin-26 on Adapter Board): This connection provides a 5 volt reference voltage for the throttle position sensor, and can be used for some other types of sensors, such as external MAP sensors. These connections are usually marked with something like "5V," "VREF," or "Reference Voltage" in the factory wiring diagram. Caution: Do not let the VREF connection be shorted to ground - this will shut down the DIYPNP.
I didn't explain that very well. My EGR is deleted, so I used the old connector for 5v vref and SG and signal. In the stock harness vref and SG are paralled with the TPS to pin 26 and pin 46, so they were both at the connector already. I just had to jumper from pin 27 to ADC1 on the board. But since you wrote the assembly manual, you probably already know that :D. Very nice manual by the way! I wish I would have known about it when I built mine. The instructions on the DIYAutotune site aren't very well organized.

88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif
 

Blown88GT

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1999
1,137
141
104
Palm Beach Gardens, FL
#15
Thanks for the good info. My brain is old & fuzzy at times.
I'll tap into the existing harness for Vref & SG with some T-connectors & run the signal back to a spare pin.

BTW, DIYPNP is no more, i.e,. End of Life
https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/hardware/diypnp/
I know of someone who modified the case to fit inside the kick panel, just like the OEM.
They machined the case to be the required 3/8" thinner.
I mounted mine under the glove compartment along with the WBO2 controller, the advantage being, it can be removed in less than 5 min.
IMG_0529.JPG

Tablet Mount 02.JPG
 
Oct 16, 2015
185
83
48
55
North Dakota
#16
Thanks for the good info. My brain is old & fuzzy at times.
I'll tap into the existing harness for Vref & SG with some T-connectors & run the signal back to a spare pin.

BTW, DIYPNP is no more, i.e,. End of Life
https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/hardware/diypnp/
I know of someone who modified the case to fit inside the kick panel, just like the OEM.
They machined the case to be the required 3/8" thinner.
I mounted mine under the glove compartment along with the WBO2 controller, the advantage being, it can be removed in less than 5 min.
View attachment 620898
View attachment 620899
I saw it was going to be discontinued. It was a fun project. I'm an electrician, and have done a lot of electronics for work and hobby projects over the years, so this was right up my alley. I liked that I could build it myself and actually make my car run well with it( with a lot of @a91what Steve's help). I wasn't happy about the case not fitting in the stock location either. I mounted mine under the passenger seat. I made an extension cable out of one of these.
Capture.JPG
 

Blown88GT

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1999
1,137
141
104
Palm Beach Gardens, FL
#18
That cable was part of a breakout box. I see some socket ends, no pin ends.
My next project would be to eliminate the 60-pin altogether & substitute something like the 38999 series connectors.
They are Mil-Spec circular connectors, originally made by Bendix, then ITT-Canon, Amphenol, etc.
They were available in every configuration imaginable.
They were also know as MS connectors. 38999's are everywhere.
Google for images.
https://www.ittcannon.com/Core/medi...ochures/MILDTL-38999-fullcatalog.pdf?ext=.pdf
Ford should have done this back then, it would have cost less than the custom 60-pin.
In the quantities they needed, they could have gotten whatever they wanted.

Thinking about it, I could make my own extension harness out of whatever connectors I choose. Cut the Ford one off & use whatever in between.
Connectors have always been expensive, so is it really worth 100's of $$$ ??? It now fits, it now works & I get few passengers. I just tell them to keep feet flat on the floor.

Mods to the box were get rid of the self taping screws & tap holes for machine screws. The soft aluminum is no good. Lots of design issues with the whole thing, most of them in the circuit board, e.g. plated thru-holes too large for the gauge wire used.

BTW, I'm a retired EE; designed & built all kinds of stuff for DoD. Some in the air, some in the water, others in national testing labs.
Went to "solder school" & was certified mil-spec. Was also the facility engineer for a pharmaceutical manufacturer, 100's of motors & controllers running 24/7.
 
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Oct 16, 2015
185
83
48
55
North Dakota
#19
My wife rides with me on cruises with our Mustang club, and telling her to keep her feet off the ecu wasn't going to work:). This was the easiest solution for me.
IMG_0994.JPG


Here's a picture of how the transducer install turned out
IMG_0996.JPG
 

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