Build Thread Mustang5L5's Build Thread -

Status
Not open for further replies.
Well, I think I got my answer.

Flange is .400 thick. Rotor hat is .233 thick. And 0.500 from mounting face of wheel to start of acorn taper.

So 1.133” which puts me here. I think I’ll run the Moroso and return the Dorman

03F95CE4-9337-48A2-A3A6-3FCA27C4B842.jpeg
 
  • Sponsors (?)


What’s the consensus on reusing the diff center pin bolt? I’ve had mine out 3-4 times now and reused it each time. Should I retire it? Or ok to reuse?

I am 0 for 2 when it comes to installing a new center pin bolt. I have done it twice and both times they were broken when I went back in it at later date. I am not sure why or what caused them to shear in the center pin? I do not do anything different when I reuse the old pin. Sure made it fun to get out.
 
I'm surprised the moser axles didn't have threaded studs.

You need a special tool to install the studs?
Recently a bearing ate an axle on my work van, all i did was use a larger old nut, then use my impact wrench and drive a lug nut over it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Anyone ever use this type of gasket? Supposedly reusable?

Also, new pin for insurance.

Need to pull the studs on first, and then I can dump the gear oil in and install the diff cover and the axle is done. Will install rotors, calipers and dust shields on the car when done to cut down on weight and damage.

8AD9A30F-5B5D-4AB9-927A-1734F39CF02F.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
I am 0 for 2 when it comes to installing a new center pin bolt. I have done it twice and both times they were broken when I went back in it at later date. I am not sure why or what caused them to shear in the center pin? I do not do anything different when I reuse the old pin. Sure made it fun to get out.

Where did it specifically break at?

Inspecting my old one and I can see worn area on the shaft where the center pin rubs on it.

Gonna drill a hole and put it the keychain.

001A3539-397B-4C31-84E2-44B090536D7A.jpeg
 
Last edited:
You using ford pin/bolts or the junk kits packed with made in India stuff alot of vendors sell now... The heat treat on most of the india sourced stuff is horrible and won't take any side loading. lots of gear/axle/ diff vendors selling it and it's a crap shoot if its decent or not, the aftermarket diffs are getting bad with all the Eaton clones, spider gears that shatter under stock powered cars lol... Most are companies with American sounding names. Ford used to sell them in a bag of 3 for a couple bucks. Probably have a few in my junk draw of my tool box.
 
Inspecting the cross-pin, it shows some wear.

Since I plan to rebuild the t-lok and possibly do gears next winter, this should be fine for 54 actual miles I end up driving this summer. I’ll replace it then. I’ll use this for now to wear in the ends of the moser axles

You can very faintly feel some surface irregularities in the shiny worn are


506F763F-4C59-4A09-8462-8BC53C2BE04B.jpeg
965EC831-D186-4B2C-B585-9AA68B34183E.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Anyone ever use this type of gasket? Supposedly reusable?

Also, new pin for insurance.

Need to pull the studs on first, and then I can dump the gear oil in and install the diff cover and the axle is done. Will install rotors, calipers and dust shields on the car when done to cut down on weight and damage.

8AD9A30F-5B5D-4AB9-927A-1734F39CF02F.jpeg
I used one in my car and it has not leaked a drop.. No sealant, straight gasket... Very happy...
DSCF1290.JPG
 
  • Love
Reactions: 1 user
Studs are in.

3AFB119E-D4FF-491F-B6C9-F74363589950.jpeg



Easiest way to fill a diff. Got the cover painted and ready to bolt down. Got lazy and I’ll wrap up that up tomorrow. Clean the calipers and test fit and the rear is done.

5A963E62-526A-4F01-9D88-EB72179AD0B7.jpeg
EB43C909-2833-4AD6-AD46-2C41F8D47F0D.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users
Status
Not open for further replies.