Relieve pressure. Too much pressure on the return line from the power steering is pushing back into the hydroboost. This causes the brakes to drag and for your level of assist to be reduced.
I need to reduce the pressure on the hydro return line to the reservior. Should be as close to 0 psi.
The small restricted port on the reservior is creating higher backpressure.
I need to reduce the pressure on the hydro return line to the reservior. Should be as close to 0 psi.
The small restricted port on the reservior is creating higher backpressure.
Think you just gave me something to check. Noticed an annoying squeek in BJ last week. Couldn't find anything to apply pressure to that stopped it.
Fittings arrive. Drilled out the fitting for the return for the steering rack. There’s a diffuser inside so I think I can allow a little more flow. I don’t want the pump to strain too much.
Drilled and tapped for the hydro return on the side of the bottle. I want zero backpressure on this line so I chose to just give it its own port. I could have also tapped on the bottom but real estate was tight there
I redid the plumbing for the hydro return.
Had to order. 45* fitting for the steering rack return. Should be here in a few days. Then bleed and test.
Drilled and tapped for the hydro return on the side of the bottle. I want zero backpressure on this line so I chose to just give it its own port. I could have also tapped on the bottom but real estate was tight there
I redid the plumbing for the hydro return.
Had to order. 45* fitting for the steering rack return. Should be here in a few days. Then bleed and test.
60* fitting arrived today. Perfect angle for clearance under the bottle and away from the brackets and down towards the rack.
But now the hose is 1” too short
I could use a short peice, use two straight couplers and a Union, but I’m adding more complexity and leak points.
A new longer hose was $17. Shipping…a week. Grrr.
I gotta do it right with the least amount of fittings/failure points, so we continue to wait.
Edit: in the meantime, I think I’m gonna use the short lenght of hose and fittings I have to extend the line and test. I need to know if this solves the problem. Then I can make a new permanent line next week
But now the hose is 1” too short
I could use a short peice, use two straight couplers and a Union, but I’m adding more complexity and leak points.
A new longer hose was $17. Shipping…a week. Grrr.
I gotta do it right with the least amount of fittings/failure points, so we continue to wait.
Edit: in the meantime, I think I’m gonna use the short lenght of hose and fittings I have to extend the line and test. I need to know if this solves the problem. Then I can make a new permanent line next week
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Cobbled up a temp line with what I had.
90* will connect to the reservoir, and the other end will connect to the line going to the power steering cooler. That line is on the car and already has a straight coupling. Should work for short term testing.
When i get the new cut of hose, it will be one continuous piece, connecting at the PS cooler and then one fitting into the bottle. Less potential leak points since it will be one fitting, vs 5
90* will connect to the reservoir, and the other end will connect to the line going to the power steering cooler. That line is on the car and already has a straight coupling. Should work for short term testing.
When i get the new cut of hose, it will be one continuous piece, connecting at the PS cooler and then one fitting into the bottle. Less potential leak points since it will be one fitting, vs 5
Success. Just went for a drive and braking performance is much more improved. Now it stops without too much effort!
My temp hose layout. Not ideal but gets the car driveable. I’d be paranoid about one of those extra fittings working loose and spraying the header with Type F. That’s why I want minimal fittings
My temp hose layout. Not ideal but gets the car driveable. I’d be paranoid about one of those extra fittings working loose and spraying the header with Type F. That’s why I want minimal fittings
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An fittings typically don't work loose. Most racers change all the brake lines from 45 degree double flares over to 37 degree JIC fittings for reliability and ease of removal and reinstall. Military and domestic aircraft use JIC so that has to say something. Also, JIC fittings are not as high of quality as AN fittings.
Knowing you though (and believe me I understand) it will stay parked until it is done like you want it which is always very nice and done right. Glad you worked the issue out as there is nothing more frustrating than not so bueno brakes.
Knowing you though (and believe me I understand) it will stay parked until it is done like you want it which is always very nice and done right. Glad you worked the issue out as there is nothing more frustrating than not so bueno brakes.
Yeah. Not sure it was worth it. For anyone sticking with a 302….stay with 93 cobra booster. Simple and works.
I still have coyote swap hanging over my head….
You know, I went 363 so I wouldn't have to go down that rabbit hole. However, I have more money into the 363 than I would have had in an entire Coyote swap! That is if you do a take out engine/trans kit on a pallet. I have Midway Mustang an hour away, so that could have been an easy option. But, I don't regret that I'll have what I have. It's brand new and bullet proof. Just food for thought for those thinking staying 302 package keeps things cheaper, lol.
I was going to stay 302 based myself, but found a great deal on a 97 Cobra with a built T56 and supercharger/aftercooler for $9500 (salvage title) so I got that, sold the roller shell for $3500 and my old engine/trans setup so I only have like $3k in the supercharged 4.6 and T56 setup. I too wanted to go Coyote eventually but this was too good of a deal to pass up and will make all the power I'm wanting (around 450 whp).
Consider skipping the coyote or any other swap.
It's not going to add to your enjoyment, it will just be another expensive project, one that will be just as expensive to undo.
I speak from experience. 15 years ago when i swapped engines my life was in a very different place. I wanted trouble free 500rwhp to drive around and beat up on. And while i consider that goal met, in 2023 i'm not driving it around beating up on anything.
500rwhp either leaves you wanting more or wondering why you needed it in the first place. I feel both ways sometimes.
You have a nice clean well cared for car, don't complicate it more.
If you need a little more power, do a mild vortech setup with low boost.
For the record, i have my days where I want to go back to pushrods and do an entire ford racing parts bin build.
Any motor swap is waaaaay down the road anyway. Just something that’s been stuck in the back of my mind. I may talk about it but It’s all talk at this point. Don’t Expect a motor to show up anytime soon
Still trying to dial in the combo. More driving today. Not quite sure the hydro is where it needs to be. While braking performance is better, it still doesn’t feel right. On top of that, I feel a little brake drag as well. The car doesn’t freely roll as much as I thought it did before. Need to test more on a cooler day. It would be a major project to go back to booster right now, but I’m thinking of it. I need to work through what I have no first.
Also, car doesn’t run as well when it’s balls hot out. It’s the typical hunting idle up and down before a stall. It drives fine, but surges and stalls at a light unless I catch it. I have to clutch in and be prepared to feather throttle. I’ve noticed this before, and pretty much knew it’s all because of not being tuned. It runs much richer when HOT and humid. When it’s cooler out it’s much more stable and steady. Engine temp is right around 190 degrees.
I think I’m stuck enjoying driving the car right now because I should reallly be wiring the MS3 in and talking to @a91what aboutsome tuning. I just think I’m trying to push that off til fall/winter. I e got some vacations coming up, so no point doing it now (although I need to prep the wiring harness)
AC is working awesome as hell though. Really cranking it with windows up, cannot feel any power loss and so cold my sunglasses fog up when I exit the car. I know I keep saying this, but 20+ years of sweating my butt off when I drove this car…this is a game changer!
Also…I had a FU moment. Picking up a coffee at local coffee shop, got in too fast.
Still trying to dial in the combo. More driving today. Not quite sure the hydro is where it needs to be. While braking performance is better, it still doesn’t feel right. On top of that, I feel a little brake drag as well. The car doesn’t freely roll as much as I thought it did before. Need to test more on a cooler day. It would be a major project to go back to booster right now, but I’m thinking of it. I need to work through what I have no first.
Also, car doesn’t run as well when it’s balls hot out. It’s the typical hunting idle up and down before a stall. It drives fine, but surges and stalls at a light unless I catch it. I have to clutch in and be prepared to feather throttle. I’ve noticed this before, and pretty much knew it’s all because of not being tuned. It runs much richer when HOT and humid. When it’s cooler out it’s much more stable and steady. Engine temp is right around 190 degrees.
I think I’m stuck enjoying driving the car right now because I should reallly be wiring the MS3 in and talking to @a91what aboutsome tuning. I just think I’m trying to push that off til fall/winter. I e got some vacations coming up, so no point doing it now (although I need to prep the wiring harness)
AC is working awesome as hell though. Really cranking it with windows up, cannot feel any power loss and so cold my sunglasses fog up when I exit the car. I know I keep saying this, but 20+ years of sweating my butt off when I drove this car…this is a game changer!
Also…I had a FU moment. Picking up a coffee at local coffee shop, got in too fast.
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