Build Thread Mustang5L5's Build Thread -

Mustang5L5 · Dec 12, 2020

Noobz347 said:
Can you mechanically limit the stroke of the brake pedal to accommodate for the outsized piston?

doesnt quite work that way. It’s like giving someone a short lever to lift a bolder and then telling them they can only move the lever arm 1”

HotFox · Dec 12, 2020

It seems like you should be able to find a 6" with the banjo end already on it? That would eliminate a connection!

Mustang5L5 · Dec 12, 2020

Actually, this might be all I need. Just get the lines with the right connections I need

edit: scratch that. Shortest lenght is 10”. But I’ll keep lookinh at this route

Custom Made Braided Stainless Steel Lines | Techna Fit

Shop for high-performance custom made stainless steel lines. Simply select the hose & fitting size you need and we will assemble to your specs.

www.technafitstore.com

bird_dog0347 · Dec 13, 2020

shop for motorcycle braided break lines... might be the solution.

90sickfox · Dec 13, 2020

There's a hydraulic shop where I used to live that makes custom braided and stainless brake lines. I'm sure a hydraulic hose shop near you could make those lines with no issue.

Mustang5L5 · Dec 13, 2020

Ok, I may have found a solution. Found a 6” long premade SS hose with a 45* banjo end and a 3an hookup on the opposite side. I bought 1 line to test fit. Unfortunately it may be a week or so before it’s here.

also, a 1” banjo is too big. I need 20mm deep banjos. I’ve got one set on order, but I also found a high-polish 12pt banjo bolt. Just waiting to see how long it is. I have a feeling it’s the 1” (24mm) bolt.

I also may be able to get my hands on a 37* flare tool, in which case I’ll just grab some SS line and attempt to flare 3an on one side and the proper 3/8 and 7/16 inverted flare on the opposite side.

Mustang5L5 · Dec 15, 2020

Bought some hardware. @TOOLOW91

couldn’t find SS ARP hardware individually so I went black oxide with a washer. The washer may not be ARP but the bolt is. I also bought an SS bolt

Only thing I haven’t checked is clearance to the pulley. The ARP bolt and washer protrude 0.430”. Could shorten that up by not using the washer.

haven’t decided which I’ll use, but here are the part numbers off Mcmaster-carr. Top one is the ARP bolt. I think they were $3each plus ship.

Mustang5L5 · Dec 15, 2020

02 281 GT said:
I like nice bolts. Working on aircraft and seeing all the specialty nuts and bolts has given me an appreciation for nice fasteners.

i found 12pount stainless banjo bolts. Too bad they are 24mm and I need 20mm for the MC.

also $20 a bolt!

Mustang5L5 · Dec 17, 2020

This guy has literally shoveled next to me for as long as I’ve been out there. Older two were “tired” after 10 mins

Mustang5L5 · Dec 19, 2020

Ok. Parts slowly trickling in. I got my hands on a good flare tool, so I need to make s decision.

option 1: flex hose. This is a 6” premade hose. Using an adapter in the prop valve. Fits nicely, but a tad short up front. Conpany will do custom sizes though.

option 2. Hard pipe. Used a premade SS line into the prop valve, cut and flare into this banjo fitting.

both have the same amount of connections.

btw: not the correct banjo crush washers for these.

Mustang5L5 · Dec 23, 2020

I think I know which way I’m going...

Ordered a second flex line. I called up and was able to get it just 1/4” longer so it should fit nicely like the other one.

the hard lines looked....well not good as I couldn’t get the bends uniform so they didn’t look very professional. Too many kinks, and I couldn’t bend them in a way to relieve stress if the MC moves around from firewall flex

The custom hose ends came here. I may have them do my power steering lines too

Graystonesystems.com

Mustang5L5 · Dec 23, 2020

Finally found some time to clean up, and paint my 94-95 spindles. Guess this means I need to buy a project car to put them on

Mustang5L5 · Dec 27, 2020

Finished the bracket to mount the SN95 power steering cooler. Does a nice job of holding it clear of everything. Now to paint and final mount

Mustang5L5 · Dec 28, 2020

Got my new custom line. This will work

Graystonesystems.com

Mustang5L5 · Dec 29, 2020

HotFox said:
So what did that cost in fittings when all said and done?

the two adapters on the prop valve were $6 each.

The hoses were $15 each.

banjos were $10 each.

the banjo washers were $15 for a package of 50 off mcmaster. I actually bought a bag of copper and AL but used the AL for the MC. I have plenty of copper for the calipers now.

Mustang5L5 · Dec 30, 2020

Found the pump. As you can see the two fitting sizes are slightly different as the mustang pump uses an o-ring seal, and the escort uses something different. The fitting I was going to use is a banjo style fitting anyway, so should be ok

I’ve started researching how I’m going to make and run my hoses and ordered some parts. The coyote swap pages are a huge wealth of resources. Those guys certainly know how to do things the right way (most of the time). Ask a hydroboost question on the general fox pages and you get “who the fudge purposesly runs hydro?? Throw that out and run manual brakes like a real man!”

Mustang5L5 · Dec 30, 2020

Decided to change this part simply for looks. Also, no adapter fittings. I would have gone with the Ford Racing one but it required adapters. The wilwood one (same part) was also $20 cheaper. This Union area is 3/8-24 inverted flare

old

New

No idea where I got it from, but it’s the same as the previous Ford/Wilwood valve. As you can see, only difference is who’s name is etched on it

Mustang5L5 · Jan 1, 2021

Trying to plan out my next course of action. In my head, I’d like to do a black braided line for the hydroboost hoses. Just trying to figure out fittings.

straight fittings with 120* AN connectors?

Or maybe look into nice banjo style fittings? I’m concerned about flow reduction though

same option with the PS pump. I think I need the pump in the car to figure out hose routing first

I’m also debating hard piping on the outer frame rail. Looks like a PITA and I’d need to cut a circle in the rear apron.
I might need to drop the engine in first to see how my hoses should run to the pump and the low side.

I need to figure out what to do about my steering rack. Swap out now or wait until I can prime it full of PS fluid? I’ll prob wait. A rack swap is easy, especially with AN connections vs those funky Ford connections

I think it’s time to drop the engine in I at least need to check things like steering shaft clearances.

Deleted member 215073 · Jan 1, 2021

Why AN over JIC fittings? I'm genuinely curious.

I deal with hydraulics at work daily (Kubota technician) and never see AN fittings, only JIC, British parallel, and tapered pipe threads (both metric and standard). I also see SAE, and O ring boss fittings.

a91what · Jan 1, 2021

JIC is an industrial standard, we used JIC fittings all over the chemical plants.. they were 37* just like the AN fittings.
Crazy expensive stainless everything and food safe.

AN are military standard for airforce and navy...
AN= Army Navy.

An fittings have tighter tolerances than JIC
They can be used interchangeably

Build Thread Mustang5L5's Build Thread -

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

still married haven't seen testicles in years

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Deleted member 215073

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