doesnt quite work that way. It’s like giving someone a short lever to lift a bolder and then telling them they can only move the lever arm 1”
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doesnt quite work that way. It’s like giving someone a short lever to lift a bolder and then telling them they can only move the lever arm 1”
HotFox
15 Year Member
It seems like you should be able to find a 6" with the banjo end already on it? That would eliminate a connection!
Actually, this might be all I need. Just get the lines with the right connections I need
edit: scratch that. Shortest lenght is 10”. But I’ll keep lookinh at this route
edit: scratch that. Shortest lenght is 10”. But I’ll keep lookinh at this route
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Ok, I may have found a solution. Found a 6” long premade SS hose with a 45* banjo end and a 3an hookup on the opposite side. I bought 1 line to test fit. Unfortunately it may be a week or so before it’s here.
also, a 1” banjo is too big. I need 20mm deep banjos. I’ve got one set on order, but I also found a high-polish 12pt banjo bolt. Just waiting to see how long it is. I have a feeling it’s the 1” (24mm) bolt.
I also may be able to get my hands on a 37* flare tool, in which case I’ll just grab some SS line and attempt to flare 3an on one side and the proper 3/8 and 7/16 inverted flare on the opposite side.
also, a 1” banjo is too big. I need 20mm deep banjos. I’ve got one set on order, but I also found a high-polish 12pt banjo bolt. Just waiting to see how long it is. I have a feeling it’s the 1” (24mm) bolt.
I also may be able to get my hands on a 37* flare tool, in which case I’ll just grab some SS line and attempt to flare 3an on one side and the proper 3/8 and 7/16 inverted flare on the opposite side.
Bought some hardware. @TOOLOW91
couldn’t find SS ARP hardware individually so I went black oxide with a washer. The washer may not be ARP but the bolt is. I also bought an SS bolt
Only thing I haven’t checked is clearance to the pulley. The ARP bolt and washer protrude 0.430”. Could shorten that up by not using the washer.
haven’t decided which I’ll use, but here are the part numbers off Mcmaster-carr. Top one is the ARP bolt. I think they were $3each plus ship.
couldn’t find SS ARP hardware individually so I went black oxide with a washer. The washer may not be ARP but the bolt is. I also bought an SS bolt
Only thing I haven’t checked is clearance to the pulley. The ARP bolt and washer protrude 0.430”. Could shorten that up by not using the washer.
haven’t decided which I’ll use, but here are the part numbers off Mcmaster-carr. Top one is the ARP bolt. I think they were $3each plus ship.
i found 12pount stainless banjo bolts. Too bad they are 24mm and I need 20mm for the MC.
also $20 a bolt!
This guy has literally shoveled next to me for as long as I’ve been out there. Older two were “tired” after 10 mins
Ok. Parts slowly trickling in. I got my hands on a good flare tool, so I need to make s decision.
option 1: flex hose. This is a 6” premade hose. Using an adapter in the prop valve. Fits nicely, but a tad short up front. Conpany will do custom sizes though.
option 2. Hard pipe. Used a premade SS line into the prop valve, cut and flare into this banjo fitting.
both have the same amount of connections.
btw: not the correct banjo crush washers for these.
option 1: flex hose. This is a 6” premade hose. Using an adapter in the prop valve. Fits nicely, but a tad short up front. Conpany will do custom sizes though.
option 2. Hard pipe. Used a premade SS line into the prop valve, cut and flare into this banjo fitting.
both have the same amount of connections.
btw: not the correct banjo crush washers for these.
I think I know which way I’m going...
Ordered a second flex line. I called up and was able to get it just 1/4” longer so it should fit nicely like the other one.
the hard lines looked....well not good as I couldn’t get the bends uniform so they didn’t look very professional. Too many kinks, and I couldn’t bend them in a way to relieve stress if the MC moves around from firewall flex
The custom hose ends came here. I may have them do my power steering lines too
Ordered a second flex line. I called up and was able to get it just 1/4” longer so it should fit nicely like the other one.
the hard lines looked....well not good as I couldn’t get the bends uniform so they didn’t look very professional. Too many kinks, and I couldn’t bend them in a way to relieve stress if the MC moves around from firewall flex
The custom hose ends came here. I may have them do my power steering lines too
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Finally found some time to clean up, and paint my 94-95 spindles. Guess this means I need to buy a project car to put them on 
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Finished the bracket to mount the SN95 power steering cooler. Does a nice job of holding it clear of everything. Now to paint and final mount
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the two adapters on the prop valve were $6 each.
The hoses were $15 each.
banjos were $10 each.
the banjo washers were $15 for a package of 50 off mcmaster. I actually bought a bag of copper and AL but used the AL for the MC. I have plenty of copper for the calipers now.
Found the pump. As you can see the two fitting sizes are slightly different as the mustang pump uses an o-ring seal, and the escort uses something different. The fitting I was going to use is a banjo style fitting anyway, so should be ok
I’ve started researching how I’m going to make and run my hoses and ordered some parts. The coyote swap pages are a huge wealth of resources. Those guys certainly know how to do things the right way (most of the time). Ask a hydroboost question on the general fox pages and you get “who the fudge purposesly runs hydro?? Throw that
out and run manual brakes like a real man!”
I’ve started researching how I’m going to make and run my hoses and ordered some parts. The coyote swap pages are a huge wealth of resources. Those guys certainly know how to do things the right way (most of the time). Ask a hydroboost question on the general fox pages and you get “who the fudge purposesly runs hydro?? Throw that
out and run manual brakes like a real man!”
Decided to change this part simply for looks. Also, no adapter fittings. I would have gone with the Ford Racing one but it required adapters. The wilwood one (same part) was also $20 cheaper. This Union area is 3/8-24 inverted flare
old
New
No idea where I got it from, but it’s the same as the previous Ford/Wilwood valve. As you can see, only difference is who’s name is etched on it
old
New
No idea where I got it from, but it’s the same as the previous Ford/Wilwood valve. As you can see, only difference is who’s name is etched on it
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Trying to plan out my next course of action. In my head, I’d like to do a black braided line for the hydroboost hoses. Just trying to figure out fittings.
straight fittings with 120* AN connectors?
Or maybe look into nice banjo style fittings? I’m concerned about flow reduction though
same option with the PS pump. I think I need the pump in the car to figure out hose routing first
I’m also debating hard piping on the outer frame rail. Looks like a PITA and I’d need to cut a circle in the rear apron.
I might need to drop the engine in first to see how my hoses should run to the pump and the low side.
I need to figure out what to do about my steering rack. Swap out now or wait until I can prime it full of PS fluid? I’ll prob wait. A rack swap is easy, especially with AN connections vs those funky Ford connections
I think it’s time to drop the engine in I at least need to check things like steering shaft clearances.
straight fittings with 120* AN connectors?
Or maybe look into nice banjo style fittings? I’m concerned about flow reduction though
same option with the PS pump. I think I need the pump in the car to figure out hose routing first
I’m also debating hard piping on the outer frame rail. Looks like a PITA and I’d need to cut a circle in the rear apron.
I might need to drop the engine in first to see how my hoses should run to the pump and the low side.
I need to figure out what to do about my steering rack. Swap out now or wait until I can prime it full of PS fluid? I’ll prob wait. A rack swap is easy, especially with AN connections vs those funky Ford connections
I think it’s time to drop the engine in
I at least need to check things like steering shaft clearances.
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JIC is an industrial standard, we used JIC fittings all over the chemical plants.. they were 37* just like the AN fittings.
Crazy expensive stainless everything and food safe.
AN are military standard for airforce and navy...
AN= Army Navy.
An fittings have tighter tolerances than JIC
They can be used interchangeably
Crazy expensive stainless everything and food safe.
AN are military standard for airforce and navy...
AN= Army Navy.
An fittings have tighter tolerances than JIC
They can be used interchangeably
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