Build Thread Mustang5L5's Build Thread -

[Mustang5L5]

Pulled a VC and rocker off to replace the valve seal spring that popped off. The proform valve spring tool is worth every penny. Made it a 5 min job.

gonna pop this in. Frankly it’s in my way and I’d like to check steering shaft clearance. I realized I never bought the locking header bolts, so those are in the mail. I’ll likely swap the stock Valve covers on to avoid damage. I don’t plan on hooking anything up to the engine until I’m sure it no longer needs to come out. But would be nice to reclaim some garage space, and see what this looks like.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Ok, one shot it is.

Engine stand is now empty. Any terminator motors around??

putting this together now is way easier than under the car. Needed to push the clutch in thiugh. Bolt makes that easy

And ready to go. Just need to put the header bolts on.

oil pan has 5 quarts in it. Should I drain it or will it be fine with leveling and tilting when I stab it in??

 

[Mustang5L5]

Also...I splurged...

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

JIC is an industrial standard, we used JIC fittings all over the chemical plants.. they were 37* just like the AN fittings.
Crazy expensive stainless everything and food safe.

AN are military standard for airforce and navy...
AN= Army Navy.

An fittings have tighter tolerances than JIC
They can be used interchangeably

it’s my understanding that AN is 45*, and JIC is 37. There is an angle difference, but i’ve never had a sealing issue from using an and jic together. JIC usually shows no concern for fluid flow, tight 90 fittings and sharp edged turn radius’s are the norm.

 

[a91what]

it’s my understanding that AN is 45*, and JIC is 37. There is an angle difference, but i’ve never had a sealing issue from using an and jic together. JIC usually shows no concern for fluid flow, tight 90 fittings and sharp edged turn radius’s are the norm.

No sir... both use a standard 37* flare. Otherwise they would not be interchangeable.

 

[Mustang5L5]

My understanding is the main difference is the thread.

What's the Difference Between AN and JiC Fittings & Where Does Air-Way "Fit" In? | Air-Way Manufacturing

Air-Way Global Manufacturing Explains the Differences Between a JIC and AN Hydraulic Fitting. Learn more below!

www.air-way.com

The most notable difference between these standards are in the threads. AN fittings use an increased root radius thread ("J" thread) and a tighter tolerance (Class 3) to achieve a 40% increase in fatigue strength and 10% increase in shear strength. Material requirements also differ greatly. These two fittings function the same, they look the same, AND the industrial version is much less expensive to manufacturer.

 

[Mustang5L5]

So I bought a 94-97 ABS pump. Specifically a 96 Cobra unit.

not going to install this now. I might not never install it. The big hurdle is the rear tone rings. Not sure I can install them with fox body axles, which is what I need to swap to yo run these 18” wheels.

I just need to pick up an ABS module and wheel sensors.

I found some leads on getting the tone rings to work on fox length axkes. That’s down the road obviously.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Nice. Continuing to make the most unique fox out there. ABS is not something I would have thought to put on a fox.

it’s one of those things id always said I do, but not sure I actually will. Was a good price so I snagged the part.

it’s not part of current project though. I don’t want to delay what I’m doing for 6 mos to research and buy parts. Not sure I can do it with the axles either.

I’ll clean it up, bench test it, plug the ports and store it

 

[Mustang5L5]

Time to play with clusters. I mentioned I scored two ‘89 140 clusters for $50. Well one isn’t in great shape. I just remembered I had a good 85mpg cluster sitting around as well, so I’ll toss the 140 into that one and part out the bad cluster.

anyway, not that I ever intend to sell my car, but keeping the mileage consistent has always been critical to me. I want to know it’s right...for me. I did the same when I swapped the original 85mph speedo out for the 140.

guess I’ve driven this car more than I thought. I had 96k on it in 2008 when I resurrected it from 7 years of storage. Looks like when I backed it into the garage and shut it down almost 2 years ago it had 110000.3 on it. What are the odds.

and here’s the 160mph with 110001.0 on it. I spun the extra mile in just to test it. Oh well

I have a new Guage lens in the mail. My original white face gusge will get stored. I’ll play musical cluster parts with the other clusters. None are tested, so I want to verify the one I sm putting in works well before I sell any of the other 2 clusters off. Or maybe I’ll hoard them who knows

Just waiting on the new lens

 

[Mustang5L5]

Those speedos are pretty cool. I wonder what type of speedo gear your going to need to get any type of accuracy out of that.

No need to change the speedo gear. The calibration between the various speedometer ranges (0-85, 0-140, 0-160) is in the head.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Are you sure you’re going to want to drive your car when it’s finished? It’s going to be so clean...

I think I enjoy working on it and having these "mini-projects" more than I do driving it.

Not going to lie, but I've been looking for a second Mustang to cruise around in. I've been squirreling away funds for it, and think I've settled on either an '01 Cobra vert, or a new Edge Saleen convertible. I also might go for a Factory Five Cobra, but I think I want a car to immediately start driving. Only thing stopping me is lacking the garage space due to having all the fox stuff spread all over the place while I put my car back together.

 

[Rdub6]

Was looking through my ‘95 Brothers catalog, and found this:

 

[Mustang5L5]

I will say i do appreciate all the leg work you are doing for setting up the hydroboost on a foxbody. That is also in the plans for mine that I just started on rebuilding every single thing on the car. I was actually the guy that asked about your engine stand/cradle on IG. So will continue following this thread along with your IG.

Thanks!

Btw, here’s the cradle (top one). They come predrilled for casters, so I just ended up adding my own. Very sturdy and rolls very well.

Featured Products

Custom Fabrication Engine Cradle Stand Caster Connector Table Bench Gate Rail Brand ornamental

www.stumpysfabworks.com

 

[Mustang5L5]

Got my Scott drake reproduction lens.

well, I got it in pieces...

 

[Mustang5L5]

Yeah it is definitely an interesting argument between the tedsik or wap blocks but just remember one thing. The factory internals will let go before anything lol thus was the case with mine.

Here is another point of view

Ford's 4.6L TEKSID and WAP blocks

TEKSID and WAP Cylinder Block Choosing the appropriate 4.6-liter block for a race or performance application is not too challenging of a proposition. We at Sean Hyland Motorsport (SHM) have successfully used the ‘96-‘98 Cobra aluminum block as a basis for drag-race engines of up to 1500 hp...

www.modularfoxmustangs.com

Ultimately that was the same conclusion I arrived at too.

But local Teksids are $500-600, while I can prob get a 3V block around $300ish. For my needs either will suit me just fine

 

[Mustang5L5]

Got my locking header bolts. As much as I like the SS 12-pt bolts, I want some reliability and insurance to avoid header leaks.

need to install these, figure out the torque spec on AL heads, and then gonna take a page out of @TOOLOW91 book and stick the stock valve covers on.

then time to make a plan to stab the engine in. Gonna be in the 30s this weekend and this is a driveway job. Hmm...

 

[BlakeusMaximus]

Thats what Ive always used and never had an issue. What gaskets are you going to run?

 

[Mustang5L5]

Thats what Ive always used and never had an issue. What gaskets are you going to run?

I think I have some felpros under there. They are on, but not torqued yet. Retainers will need some trimming to lock against the header.

ok. Ready to rock and roll. Testing to see if I have the height I need. Plan is to drop the coil overs as low as I can go, and Jack up the rear. Just need to push all this outside and do it. Sat or Sun weather permitting

 

[BlakeusMaximus]

I've never seen a need for locking header bolts, just remember to retorque them after they've been hot a few times. Then forget them.

They make those for a reason Rick.

 

[nickyb]

I think I have some felpros under there. They are on, but not torqued yet. Retainers will need some trimming to lock against the header.

ok. Ready to rock and roll. Testing to see if I have the height I need. Plan is to drop the coil overs as low as I can go, and Jack up the rear. Just need to push all this outside and do it. Sat or Sun weather permitting

It's a beauty.