Build Thread Mustang5L5's Build Thread -

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#321
All wired up and tested. All values ohm out within spec. I decided to flip the orientstion of the buttons vs what’s is standard. I prefer all my controls on the left hand, because I drive with my right on the shifter.



and for reference, my wiring diagrams.
 
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#322
Never posted this but ended up scoring a very clean servo/amp setup from a 1993. It’s mounted on the car. Just need to do tthe underdash work and I’m done.

very easy to do with no fenders on the car.

 
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#323
Another milestone...

T5 is in. I’m getting too old for this . Time to convince the wife it’s time to buy a house with a big eboigh garage to install a lift.



Stifflers X-member in, although I need to send an email on the spacer stack if using the stock exhaust hanger. Their instructions and photos don’t use it

 
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#324
OldManRiver said:
I thought the instructions stated to use one spacer with the T5,but not having the instructions in front of I might be blowing smoke.That said I only used one spacer on my T5 install and measured 4 deg at the balancer.
Click to expand...

depends on what mount you use, but with poly mount and no driveshaft safety loop it says to run 2

 
#325
Got the rest of my Cruise parts todsy. Just need to install these and that’s it.

Column harness thanks to @General karthief



This is going to be the tricky part. This slips over the brake pedal and depresses the vacuum dump plunger. Since I have the MM hydroboost pedal, it needs to be redesigned. I’ll likely have to 3D print one


also, I scored this NOS set of ‘86 Taurus cruise buttons. They are the same as the mustamg except they were mounted horizontal. I was thinking this might look better, but upon mock-up, the mustamg buttons look “right”. I bought these first....but USPS is slooooooow.
 
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#326
So my $13 EBay frequency generator showed up. Figured I’d try calibrating the tach.

this is a spare tach I decided to play with. Here are my set values



So this tach was off initially by 400 RPM at 5k. I adjusted the pot, but the upper rpm range is waaaay off.

set point/actual

5000/5000
5500/5800
6000/6450
6500/7000

If I adjust for accuracy at the top end, it’s off at the bottom. My 88 tach only has one adjustmrnt pots. I know 90+ has two. I wonder if I can swap in just the electronics from a 90+ tach in.



I have two other tachs I can check. I’m curious if they are all as bad.

at least now I know I can do it.

Here’s what I bought. Might be able to find one on Amazon. I wish I had an O-silly-scope to verify accuracy

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=392993715816
 
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#331
So, played around with this a bit. Decided to test all 4 tachs I have and see how they differ.

The 4 clusters I have are
Original to my car white face 140MPH
A good spare 140MPH original cluster
My 160MPH cluster
A junk parts cluster. This one I played around with the pot a bit to adjust

Here's how it plots out. The RED line is the standard set value for the RPM. Closer to the red line, the better.




As you can see, the junk tach that I played with last night is the closest after tweaking the pot a little. The 160MPH and 140MPH cluster were pretty even. The surprise was the white face cluster. This is the cluster that's been in my car since 1988 and the one i've been staring at for 20+ years. It's off. WAAAAY off. It's one of the reasons I installed the Autometer shift light you might have seen in earlier posts. The shift light would go off at 5400RPM and my tach would be showing almost 7K.

I've also discovered the tach in my 160MPH cluster is a late 1989 tach with 2pots for adjustment. The earlier 87-early 89 tachs only have a single pot. My next step is to get that tach (blue line) as close to the red line as i can.

Anyway, too much geek stuff i guess but i ripped the shift light out, so i want to get the stock tach as accurate as i can in the 5000-6000 range.
 
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#333
Decided to play with the tach in my original cluster.

here’s the original setting at 6000 RPM. WAAAAY off.


here’s the best I could do at 6k RPM. Single pot adjustmrnt



Here's the spreadsheet. Green is original. Blue line is what I set it to. I had to adjust it so it was reading under the actual RPM at lower RPM for it to come in close to actual near redline. At some point in the future, i'll prob just swap this tach with one of the other ones I have that seems to be more accurate.



That's all for this. White clsuter going back into the box and squirreled away. I might make a youtube video on this.
 
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#334
Please do make a vid. I never trusted the stock tach so I never came close to red lining her,and is didn't want to mount an aftermarket tach.
 
#335
Cruise stuff installed. For the record, had my car not been completely apart right now, I never would have done this. I needed to pull the dash, which was 10 mins considering I had most of it apart anyway. But there was no way I could have bolted the clutch switch and brake pedal vac mounts on with the dash in place. No way in tarnation.

but, amplifier in plsce and everything is plugged in.



The only hiccup is the depressor for the brake vacuum dump. It won’t fit my MM pedal. I’ll need to fabricate something.
 
#336
But...this should work now.



I’m happy with my decision to flip the orientation of the button with regards to how they are normally setup. I can reach them easily with my left hand on the wheel. I tend to like my right hand free and steering wheel controls on my left, so this works for me
 
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#337
also, after doing some reading, decided not to go with the poly trans mount. Going to switch it to rubber.

I think the reason I went poly was because the Ford mount was discontinued and all I could find were cheap repros with bad reviews.

I hop on eBay, and behold....NOS goodness.
 
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#339
But, the mount pattern is the same. In fact, it will bolt right up. Difference is it’s a 6-wire single plug, while oem is two 3-wire plugs. Plug harnesses are easy to find, but I need a wiring diagram now to rewire for this motor

 
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