Try jacking the front of the car up as high as you can. also do you have or did you drill a small hole in the stat and install at the 12 o'clock position?
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WhiteCobra95
Mod Dude
- May 2, 2006
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Virtual High Five! That is awesome! It sounds and looks great! Congratulations, brother!
WhiteCobra95
Mod Dude
- May 2, 2006
- 570
- 145
- 74
100% agree. I always drill a small hole in a new thermostat for this purpose. If I remember correctly, the Mr. Gasket 180° stat I put in my car already had a bleeder hole in it, I just had to remember to orient it at 12:00.
If your stat doesn't already have a bleeder hole and you don't want to pull it apart again, jacking up the front like KZGUNS suggested and trying to purge the air out can work. Sometimes revving can help build pressure to get the stat wet and start to open up. Just be prepared with extra coolant, once the stat opens it will drain the radiator fast, and watch out for when it starts to boil back! The last thing you want with your pristine engine compartment is to cover it in Prestone. (See how I did that!) Good luck!
Yeah I really don’t want to take anything apart.
I bought a no spill funnel, will Jack up the front and and massage the hoses while it runs. That’s the one thing I didn’t do as I was trying to avoid spilling coolant. In the past, I used to just top it off and squeeze the hoses to purge air and didn’t care where the water/coolant spilled. Now I’m trying to be neat.
Got some of my fan relay parts in. Just going to build a cheap 2-speed circuit. Nothing fancy. Pwm controller will come later.
I bought a no spill funnel, will Jack up the front and and massage the hoses while it runs. That’s the one thing I didn’t do as I was trying to avoid spilling coolant. In the past, I used to just top it off and squeeze the hoses to purge air and didn’t care where the water/coolant spilled. Now I’m trying to be neat.
Got some of my fan relay parts in. Just going to build a cheap 2-speed circuit. Nothing fancy. Pwm controller will come later.
That’s just it. I need a trigger without a controller. Haven’t gone MS yet and need a functioning fan for now
Coolant bottle showed up. I like the quality better than the generic SVE/Amazon bottle, but
The SVE bottle tucks in nicely and comes with the hardware to mount it.
This bottle is too fat to fit on either side. I might be SOL. Gonna think about it, but this isn’t something I’m too set in my ways on. If the SVE bottle works fine, I’ll run it
The SVE bottle tucks in nicely and comes with the hardware to mount it.
This bottle is too fat to fit on either side. I might be SOL. Gonna think about it, but this isn’t something I’m too set in my ways on. If the SVE bottle works fine, I’ll run it
A trigger can be a thermostatic switch or even just a switch to ground that is essentially what the ecu is doing
Wait... wiat... what?.. I gotta do some stuff but I'll be right back.
Coolant bottle showed up. I like the quality better than the generic SVE/Amazon bottle, but
The SVE bottle tucks in nicely and comes with the hardware to mount it.
This bottle is too fat to fit on either side. I might be SOL. Gonna think about it, but this isn’t something I’m too set in my ways on. If the SVE bottle works fine, I’ll run it
Can you mount it in front of the radiator and still get to the cap someplace?
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Interesting. I have a few different oem controllers that I’ll likely need to bench test. This might change how I do this.
I tried. It really doesn’t fit anywhere. It’s just too fat. I’ve boxed it up to return for a refund. Nice unit, but just can’t seem to fit it.
Meanwhile, not a fan of LMRs as written directions. It mounts the bottle crooked so I needed a stack of washers to even this out. Even still, it’s too far from the fan shroud and almost hits the power steering pump.
Soooo…I need to make some brackets to do this the way I want to do it. Maybe some ARP hardware too.
Ok. Fan controller parts incoming.
Going to use a Volvo S80 controller. It’s a dual fan controller and on the Volvo it’s installed with a 60amp fuse. Should be plenty for the contour fans.
Here’s the Volvo fan. As you can see similar to the contour fan.
So really you just need 3 wires. Fused power, ground and your signal wire.
I have a little signal generator I can use for now. I just want to run a fan for now while I do my final assembly, so manual control is fine.
Eventually I can program it in the MS3X
Going to use a Volvo S80 controller. It’s a dual fan controller and on the Volvo it’s installed with a 60amp fuse. Should be plenty for the contour fans.
Here’s the Volvo fan. As you can see similar to the contour fan.
So really you just need 3 wires. Fused power, ground and your signal wire.
I have a little signal generator I can use for now. I just want to run a fan for now while I do my final assembly, so manual control is fine.
Eventually I can program it in the MS3X
Ok a little bit better mounting. I need to change up the hardware to black. I want it less visible here. But this tucks in nicely.
Who can recommend a no-spill funnel setup that works?
First two from Amazon to not fit the radiator spout at all. Had to return.
First two from Amazon to not fit the radiator spout at all. Had to return.
Lookin good!!! I love that old school Ford Motorsport cap as well! They never should have given up on those graphics!!Ok a little bit better mounting. I need to change up the hardware to black. I want it less visible here. But this tucks in nicely.
This is the one I've been using for almost 20 years
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Well, managed to jump start the coolant flow. Jacked the front up, ran the engine and massaged the top and bottom hoses and got that air bubble to move. Given that it was a cozy 36 degrees this AM, I could idle it for a while without a fan. But my next step will be fan wiring.
Once I get the ability to idle indefinitely without risk of overheating, my list of things to do is:
Set timing
Run codes, make sure everything is set up well
Continue to top off fluids (coolant/PS)
She loads up a bit at idle, and runs rich. Clears up with a few revs. After a few mins it begins to lope. Too early to really dig into that but the goal was to always run an aftermarket ECU. I didn’t really think the A9L would run this setup perfectly.
Once the engine is all set, installing the remaining AC lines, pull vac and charge. I am very much looking forward to that.
All things considering it runs pretty damn good.
View: https://youtu.be/jYWoRxVEBik
Once I get the ability to idle indefinitely without risk of overheating, my list of things to do is:
Set timing
Run codes, make sure everything is set up well
Continue to top off fluids (coolant/PS)
She loads up a bit at idle, and runs rich. Clears up with a few revs. After a few mins it begins to lope. Too early to really dig into that but the goal was to always run an aftermarket ECU. I didn’t really think the A9L would run this setup perfectly.
Once the engine is all set, installing the remaining AC lines, pull vac and charge. I am very much looking forward to that.
All things considering it runs pretty damn good.
View: https://youtu.be/jYWoRxVEBik
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mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Had some time this morning to take care of a few things.
Set the timing. Upon checking I found it was retarded at 0 degrees TDC. That would definitely cause some of the issues I saw with idle quality. Set it to 10-11 degrees and the idle quality was much better. It also cleared up the rich idle condition and did not warm up as fast.
Decided to dump codes.
81
82
94
44
33
I know what they mean, just surprised I have the code 33. EGR should be functional. The other ones are just the air pump stuff I removed. To be expected. I might make some resistor plugs just to eliminate those codes so I don't have to go through them each time I dump codes.
Also, first issue reared it’s head. Leaking t-stat housing. Popped up after a couple heat cycles. Can clearly see it leaking from the gasket.
Set the timing. Upon checking I found it was retarded at 0 degrees TDC. That would definitely cause some of the issues I saw with idle quality. Set it to 10-11 degrees and the idle quality was much better. It also cleared up the rich idle condition and did not warm up as fast.
Decided to dump codes.
81
82
94
44
33
I know what they mean, just surprised I have the code 33. EGR should be functional. The other ones are just the air pump stuff I removed. To be expected. I might make some resistor plugs just to eliminate those codes so I don't have to go through them each time I dump codes.
Also, first issue reared it’s head. Leaking t-stat housing. Popped up after a couple heat cycles. Can clearly see it leaking from the gasket.
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