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Got around to installing my 93 Cobra pullies.

Supposedly they are an 11% underdrive on the power steering and a/c pulley only. Wasnt high on my list of stuff to buy but I was drinking…


Although there might be a benefit here since the crank and WP pulley are smaller the gap between them is larger. it give the belt a bit more room to shift if the pulley is misaligned. Going to move the PS pulley back in proper alignment and see if these pullies helped with the issue. That alone might make this purchase worth it.

Cobra on top vs stock
FB5B0CBD-D7B3-4879-88B3-AF08B7FCBEC1.jpeg


Installed. Now I need a new belt. I needed one anyway because the existing one was chewed up a bit due to the misalignment of the pulleys previously.

A06B850A-2161-4296-93BC-4A17221AE823.jpeg



Part of me wants to put the stock WP pulley on to underdrive the water pump by 11%. I’m going to hold on that first though. While it is a high volumn pump, I want to see how well the car cools as is first before experimenting with under driving the WP.

I’ve run full underdrives (25% reduction) before without issue and feel they can be run fine if your cooling and charging system are robust enough. We will experiment with that later.
 
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Got around to installing my 93 Cobra pullies.

Supposedly they are an 11% underdrive on the power steering and a/c pulley only. Wasnt high on my list of stuff to buy but I was drinking…


Although there might be a benefit here since the crank and WP pulley are smaller the gap between them is larger. it give the belt a bit more room to shift if the pulley is misaligned. Going to move the PS pulley back in proper alignment and see if these pullies helped with the issue. That alone might make this purchase worth it.

Cobra on top vs stock
FB5B0CBD-D7B3-4879-88B3-AF08B7FCBEC1.jpeg


Installed. Now I need a new belt. I needed one anyway because the existing one was chewed up a bit due to the misalignment of the pulleys previously.

A06B850A-2161-4296-93BC-4A17221AE823.jpeg



Part of me wants to put the stock WP pulley on to underdrive the water pump by 11%. I’m going to hold on that first though. While it is a high volumn pump, I want to see how well the car cools as is first before experimenting with under driving the WP.

I’ve run full underdrives (25% reduction) before without issue and feel they can be run fine if your cooling and charging system are robust enough. We will experiment with that later.
I did the maths on actual rpm if you search around for it if you’re interested . I think I did , idle cruise and my max rpm .
 
I did the maths on actual rpm if you search around for it if you’re interested . I think I did , idle cruise and my max rpm .

Found it.

I did the math on the alt pulley just to be sure and it works out fine.

I think later down the road, we will try going back to the stock WP pulley to slow it down a tad and see what happens.

One of these days I’ll build that fancy excel spread sheet with drop downs for the various pulley sizes.

I actually think you can then use that to have it calculate out proper belt size as well.
 
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Found it.

I did the math on the alt pulley just to be sure and it works out fine.

I think later down the road, we will try going back to the stock WP pulley to slow it down a tad and see what happens.

One of these days I’ll build that fancy excel spread sheet with drop downs for the various pulley sizes.

I actually think you can then use that to have it calculate out proper belt size as well.
Yeah I had w/p speed in there too if not I have it in my phone for sure
 
Finally finished up the wiper motor. Converted to the modern 5-wire type and trimmed the LMR repop wiper motor cover to fit it. The SN95 motor is nice and quiet as an added measure.

Of course, I don’t drive the car in the rain so it’s really moot.

I need to find the mounting hardware in black. It’s an odd size thread pitch so hardware choices are limited. I may try and blue them using a few home methods by heating and oil soaking them.

B234250A-BE07-4B84-A514-B2BD96AC768A.jpeg
 
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Finally finished up the wiper motor. Converted to the modern 5-wire type and trimmed the LMR repop wiper motor cover to fit it. The SN95 motor is nice and quiet as an added measure.

Of course, I don’t drive the car in the rain so it’s really moot.

I need to find the mounting hardware in black. It’s an odd size thread pitch so hardware choices are limited. I may try and blue them using a few home methods by heating and oil soaking them.

B234250A-BE07-4B84-A514-B2BD96AC768A.jpeg
Ideas. 1. McMaster Carr
2. Gun Bluing. I use some to touch up needle springs on vintage saxes. It’s durable, it’s black, not blue like the springs originally are. I like this brand, but in a tube.
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If it's black then why do they call it blue???? :chin
Serious answer - Some heat treatments are actually blue. This chem (an acid) is black.
Silly answer - Before color TV, you could not tell what color the guns were on the westerns.

@Mustang5L5 I was just brainstorming. I do not know if heat and oil soaking will be more durable than chemical bluing. The chemical stuff will be less exciting. I suppose this is not a location where messing up the temper of the bolts is a problem.
Do you know what the finish is in the black interior screws?
 
Final step in the wiring. Repair my WOT relay harness.

Ford and dorman sells the plug as a fuel pump relay harness. You just need to cut off the guide rub and remove one wire but it works fine.

I wired in my fan controller to the relay solenoid power sode here as well. Fan control is fully operational (albeit manual for now)

You can see the bare wires here. Always meant to fox this, just put it off til now

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Anyway. That’s pretty much it for wiring.

Up next….AC
 
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Next up. The fun stuff.

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Been sitting on this stuff 15 years. You can’t even find Motorcraft lines anymore so glad I picked it up when I did.
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I might swap out the o-rings with the ones in that kit I bought with the compressor. I figure fresg o-rings would be a much better idea.
 
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My heat and oil blackened bolts are holding up pretty well. My car has been kept outside and has been driven a bunch over the last year. The more times you heat and submerge the bolt the blacker and thicker the coating gets. It doesn't weaken the bolts because you don't heat them to red hot. Just until the rainbow effect of the heating process goes back to metallic. Both processes, whether heat carbon or chemical bluing, will rust if left to the elements. Your car is kept inside to shouldn't be an issue. Zinc coating doesn't react well to either treatment. You'd have to wire wheel them and thoroughly clean them. It's weird no one sells them in black.
 
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Might tackle the lines tomorrow. Wife and kids back at school tomorrow and I get the day off as a holiday. Might swap the o-rings, add the oil and hook up two of the three lines.

While I wait for the bracket to show up, how can I make this insulation look better? The lone zip tie isnt really doing it for me.

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