Build Thread Mustang5L5's Build Thread -

Mustang5L5 · Dec 8, 2020

Also....in case you missed it.

I was curious to see if it would fit, so I bought one of the wheels I want to run. There was a Black Friday sale

The 98 cobras will likely be the wheels I run in the meantime. I need to swap my good tires over.

Don’t get too excited. They aren’t high end. But I think they will look good.

Rdub6 · Dec 8, 2020

Always very informative stuff in this thread! Appreciate all the explanations!

a91what · Dec 9, 2020

For those of us who do not have the equipment to measure for this properly, if you have a angle finder can you plot the angle of each arm.
In my mind the angle of the two pivot points should start the same and end the same during travel...
If it works out this would he a much easier method for ball parking.

Mustang5L5 · Dec 9, 2020

a91what said:
For those of us who do not have the equipment to measure for this properly, if you have a angle finder can you plot the angle of each arm.
In my mind the angle of the two pivot points should start the same and end the same during travel...
If it works out this would he a much easier method for ball parking.

After playing with it for a bit and understanding how my changes affected things, I switched over to an easier method (easier vs using the boards and dial indicator) and just used a laser pointer mounted to the rotor. You could easily see the toe changes on the opposite wall. I would simply mark references points, change my stack and do it again.

If you jack the wheel up, and the front toes out, you need to raise the height of the tie rod end. If you jack the a arm out and the front toes in, you need to lower it. You only needed a couple pumps on the jack to see which way the laser was going and then you could go add a shim or take out out. As you got closer to your target, the distance the laser traveled got smaller so it was easier to dial it in. Was really quick and easy. You just need a way of repeatedly referencing your ride height, and then jack it up from there.

Knowing what i know now, i likely wouldn't buy the bumpsteer kit and do it that way. After ballparking it, i did take one measurement, and it was 0.040" through about 6" of total travel, with some spots having virtually 0.000" of toe movement per 1" of travel. All that after using my laser pointer quickie method.

I will likely need to redo the bumpsteer once the car is running and driving. I'll likely go with the laser method.

90sickfox · Dec 9, 2020

I'm curious what laser pointer you used. Would be really nice to set this properly on my car.

Mustang5L5 · Dec 9, 2020

90sickfox said:
I'm curious what laser pointer you used. Would be really nice to set this properly on my car.

A tactical green laser pointed clamped to my rotor? It worked.

Without a nose on the car, it was easy to project the laser pointer forward. Obviously this wouldn't work for a car with the fender and nose as the laser would need to go to the side. I've been looking to see if there was a dedicated magnetic laser pointer and they are pricey. Really any laser should do provided you can firmly mount it so that you can watch it sweep side to side

Next time, I think I can use this. It has a laser pointer on it, as well as an angle finder. Can clamp it to the rotor, or use it to measure the angle on the arms. Quite a nice tool. I think there's a newer version, but there are cheaper generic versions on amazon. I don't know which feature angle finder and laser pointer.

Amazon product ASIN B07FVLB9QRView: https://www.amazon.com/DW0165S-Bluetooth-Enabled-Distance-Measurer/dp/B07FVLB9QR

stanglx2002 · Dec 9, 2020

Mike, you have access to a 3D printer, so just get one of those and print a base holder and a magnet on the bottom.

Mustang5L5 · Dec 9, 2020

stanglx2002 said:
Mike, you have access to a 3D printer, so just get one of those and print a base holder and a magnet on the bottom.

not a bad idea.

Mustang5L5 · Dec 9, 2020

Here’s the quick and dirty way I dialed in my bumpsteer.

You could clamp to the rotor too. In my case, I could shoot it straight ahead.

I start with the Jack 1” below ride height, and Jack up to 2” above ride height.

Can’t get much better

View: https://youtu.be/Ehgxx9GlJQc

Keep in mind, my intention was to get in ballpark. I am going to measure with dial indicator

Mustang5L5 · Dec 9, 2020

And here it is graphed. I don’t think I can get any better. I’ll try a couple

90sickfox · Dec 9, 2020

Angle is angle... I bet it would work on the face of the rotor pointing out too.

Mustang5L5 · Dec 9, 2020

It would. Just need to figure out a way to mount it.

I wrapped up both sides. Other side wasn’t as close, but it’s damn close enough.

put the springs back on and tightened everything up. I need to put the sway bar back on, then I can put it back on 4 wheels for the first time in a long while.

Mustang5L5 · Dec 9, 2020

Ok, I was feeling energetic so I put the sway bar in.

since the MM k member moves the a arm pivots up 1”, I had to get shorter sway bar endlinks. These are maybe 1/2” to 3/4” shorter

sway bar assembled with refurbished brackets, new bushing and new hardware

And loosely installed. With the mm sway bar bracket reinforcements welded in, I can’t get a 15mm socket in to tighten the nuts. I only have 1 15mm wrench for the other side so I need to buy a damn wrench to finish this

looks good. I like the contrast

Noobz347 · Dec 9, 2020

Mustang5L5 said:
It would. Just need to figure out a way to mount it.

I wrapped up both sides. Other side wasn’t as close, but it’s damn close enough.

put the springs back on and tightened everything up. I need to put the sway bar back on, then I can put it back on 4 wheels for the first time in a long while.

Just to add insult to injury

Since you're going to do all of that: You may as well also print yourself some target graphs. You will have to figure out what an acceptable resolution of measure works for you (the distance away from the laser will set your scale).

Once it's completed you only need to set your tripod-mounted targets the same distance away each time.

If you [really] wanted to get fancy... (stuff about sensors and single-board computers with readouts and self-alignment tool blah blah blah)

02 281 GT · Dec 10, 2020

It seems like the laser method makes it really simple to just eyeball.

Mustang5L5 · Dec 10, 2020

back on the ground again. First time in roughly a year.

still some tweaks to make to the suspension and tighten things up. Brakes are temporarily on. Still need to plumb my MC and then we can get the system full of fluid. It’s getting there.

we can almost talk about putting the engine/trans back in!

Mustang5L5 · Dec 10, 2020

So all mail delivery service right now is sloooooow.

I ordered my fitting for the MC a week ago and still not here yet. My replacement MC is also still not here.

but I have this so far. My plan was to use braided line from the MC down to the prop vakve. I ordered some adapaters that will thread into the prop valve and convert to 3an. I have these 3an fittings off the MC with banjos. The banjos are too long, so I bought some shorter ones.

in between the 3an will be a short section of 3an braided hose.

im on the fence about doing braided line here, but it’s a short run and I see it’s very common on hot rods.

I don’t have the right flare tool to do a 37* flare on Stainless line. Pricing them out looks like $400 to do 4 flares.

unless of course someone with a tool that will flare SS line willing to let me borrow it?

Potomus Pete · Dec 10, 2020

Mustang5L5 said:
back on the ground again. First time in roughly a year.

still some tweaks to make to the suspension and tighten things up. Brakes are temporarily on. Still need to plumb my MC and then we can get the system full of fluid. It’s getting there.

we can almost talk about putting the engine/trans back in!

Thats really cool how you can see all that equipment through the wheel. Your flying now and suddenly that painted frame and engine compartment looks like its supposed to.

Mustang5L5 · Dec 10, 2020

Hmm...

I can’t remember, but does a steering rack that has been drained of fluid have enough slop to knock? The fluid, when full, acts as a buffer?

View: https://youtu.be/EUAqFdI7gsU

It’s not tie rods. I can’t remember but I think this noise would disappear once the rack is purged...or not.

Fudge

OldManRiver · Dec 10, 2020

Seems as though the rack bushing must have excessive wear to allow that much movement of the rack assembly.Even if the fluid would dampen it,I'm not sure that much play would be optimal for steering feel and precision.
Got any more spares?

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