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With the looks of that motor, you fix that problem, you might get another 126k! Nice job!
Trying to keep my wife’s ‘19 Cherokee at that level of cleanliness/ maintenance.

No way i get another 126K without issue. Google "Ford 3.5L Water pump issues".


Car runs awesome though otherwise...just needed an entire new front suspension at 100K miles. But other than that....



Honestly, that motor could be a little cleaner. My standards are different for daily drivers. I just need reliable
 
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Our 2008 Taurus spit all the coolant in the oil at about 75k. She drove it about 5 miles from work that way. The dipstick was full to the top. I don't know how but that car has given us another 70k trouble free miles. I get them at work with over 300k.

The transmission is another story. I had to remove the valve body and replace the transmission speed sensor. Every once and a while it still kicks going up hill with light pressure. Gotta gun it to make it respond correctly. It's been like that for atleast 6 years. One day I'm sure it'll spit out its guts.
 
I mean it’s not a bad car. I really shouldn’t complain too much about it. I just fear the water pump issues…

still looks brand new after 7 years and 126k
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If I saw that behind me I'd slow down to about 2mph under the speed limit and find a spot to let you pass.
 
Maybe change the water pump now to avoid the problem in the future? Not sure how much of a pain it is though.

it’s a total PITA you have to break the engine to this point as the pump is internal and driven off the timing chains. It can be done in the car, but it’s not a quick easy job to do.

I’m sure I could do it. I just don’t think I want to

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I’ve gotten quotes to preemptively change the pump and replace the timing chains in the $1500-2k range.

im also looking around for something to trade it in on, so im hesitant to spend the money now.
 
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it’s a total PITA you have to break the engine to this point as the pump is internal and driven off the timing chains. It can be done in the car, but it’s not a quick easy job to do.

I’m sure I could do it. I just don’t think I want to

592EE6D2-98BE-4391-88C2-44858B069EC2.jpeg


I’ve gotten quotes to preemptively change the pump and replace the timing chains in the $1500-2k range.

im also looking around for something to trade it in on, so im hesitant to spend the money now.
that looks to be every bit as complicated/sophisticated as any BMW engine i’ve ever looked at.
 
that looks to be every bit as complicated/sophisticated (dumb, over-engineered, just because you can doesn't mean you should, solution in search of a problem) as any BMW engine i’ve ever looked at.

(I'm a Network Architect, spent the last 10 years as an engineer, this is dumb and should have never been done. I'd love to see the details of the "problem" they were trying to solve here.)
 
Final trip north of the summer. I’m actually sick of weekends away(packing and unpacking 3 kids is tiring) , but not looking forward to the chaos that is back-to-school

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kinda cool when the local boat-up restaurant/ice cream shop on the lake has a seaplane pull up for quick bite to eat.
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ok, back to more weekends at home meaning getting back to working on the car more.
 
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Ok well back at it with the car. I spent some time refurbishing some of the parts. I started with the distributor. Took it apart, cleaned it up, painted it, reinstalled all the electronics, the TFI, and got it back in the car. I'll have to snag a picture later. I was about to run the spark plug wires to the plugs, but deemed that they would be in my way for running the hydro boost hoses so I'm going to hold off. Anyway, that's one item off the list.


Next item was cleaning up the alternator. I did my 3G conversion back in the early 2000's with a 94-95 alt. Over the years it became somewhat grimy, so i wanted to refresh it. I started taking it apart to clean the case. Got the back off, the guts out, and just needed to press the rotor out of the front cover. AND then I cracked the case. Looks like i chucked it up in my press incorrectly and put a little too much force. It's done for without major repair.

I debated doing a 6G conversion (2004 V6 Mustang) or sticking with the 3G. In the end I chose to stay with the 3G so i ordered up a new Bosch alternator. The 3G is 130A and the 6G is 105-110A and a much smaller case and improved cooling. While i think 110A is sufficient power for a standard Fox with E-fan, I wanted the 20 extra amps of the 3G.

SO when that arrives, bolt in and move onto the next item.


Actually, the last hurdle before i can fire up the motor is building/installing the hydro boost lines. I can't run the power steering pump dry, so i need to hook up the lines and add fluid first. Next project coming up.
 
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Ok well back at it with the car. I spent some time refurbishing some of the parts. I started with the distributor. Took it apart, cleaned it up, painted it, reinstalled all the electronics, the TFI, and got it back in the car. I'll have to snag a picture later. I was about to run the spark plug wires to the plugs, but deemed that they would be in my way for running the hydro boost hoses so I'm going to hold off. Anyway, that's one item off the list.


Next item was cleaning up the alternator. I did my 3G conversion back in the early 2000's with a 94-95 alt. Over the years it became somewhat grimy, so i wanted to refresh it. I started taking it apart to clean the case. Got the back off, the guts out, and just needed to press the rotor out of the front cover. AND then I cracked the case. Looks like i chucked it up in my press incorrectly and put a little too much force. It's done for without major repair.

I debated doing a 6G conversion (2004 V6 Mustang) or sticking with the 3G. In the end I chose to stay with the 3G so i ordered up a new Bosch alternator. The 3G is 130A and the 6G is 105-110A and a much smaller case and improved cooling. While i think 110A is sufficient power for a standard Fox with E-fan, I wanted the 20 extra amps of the 3G.

SO when that arrives, bolt in and move onto the next item.


Actually, the last hurdle before i can fire up the motor is building/installing the hydro boost lines. I can't run the power steering pump dry, so i need to hook up the lines and add fluid first. Next project coming up.
I assume you removed the distributor gear to disassemble it? Did you have to use any sort of tool to remove or install it? I have a junkyard remote TFI distributor I recently acquired and that cam gear won't budge.
 
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