Build Thread Mustang5L5's Build Thread -

[AeroCoupe]

2018 and up got the 10 speed and Gen 3 Coyote. Not a lot of difference between the Gen 2 and Gen 3 in hp and torque, +10 and +13 respectively.

I could not tell a lot of difference between my 2020 and my buddies 2015 except a little better fuel mileage which is due to the 10 speed.

 

[BlakeusMaximus]

Thanks for the info guys.

 

[hoopty5.0]

my '17 250 has the 6 speed and it makes a HUGE difference in fuel economy. Mine sucks.

 

[Cheapskate207]

I like my current 10 speed better than my old 6 speed. I also like the 2.7 better than the 5.0. My old ‘15 is almost identical to your fathers truck.

 

[Kid wita 5oh]

I like my current 10 speed better than my old 6 speed. I also like the 2.7 better than the 5.0. My old ‘15 is almost identical to your fathers truck.

I have the 2.7 in my 21 f150... I am thoroughly impressed with it(although I haven't owned any coyote trucks yet, I drove plenty when I was a Ford tech )

 

[Mustang5L5]

thanks to @91AOD5.0LX , I finally got my hands on something I’ve been looking for for a long while.

 

[90sickfox]

I did the water pump and timing chains on our Taurus in the driveway during the winter. It sucked. Because I was on the ground I had to loosen the subframe and shift the engine as far over to the drivers side as I could. Guess I did good because it's lasted about 70k. The transmission has seizures whenever it feels like it. It's still hanging in there though.

 

[Rdub6]

thanks to @91AOD5.0LX , I finally got my hands on something I’ve been looking for for a long while.

That’s pretty cool!
I had something similar in my 95 Trans Am. Had to tune to a certain FM station to get into CD changer mode, but having those 10 CDs to pick from was awesome!!!

 

[Mustang5L5]

I did the water pump and timing chains on our Taurus in the driveway during the winter. It sucked. Because I was on the ground I had to loosen the subframe and shift the engine as far over to the drivers side as I could. Guess I did good because it's lasted about 70k. The transmission has seizures whenever it feels like it. It's still hanging in there though.

Yeah, that's what I don't want to do right now. If it was July and in the 80's I would have rolled up the sleeves and gotten after it. At least it's daylight until 8-9PM so i could have wrenched on it after work.

Right now, the weather outside is still cold and I have so much going on the next few weekends and after work....that i just have no desire to dig into it.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Showing the unit in action. Back in the box for now. I’ll mount it in the car this spring/summer when I can roll carpet back and run wires.

I'll probably run the tape deck in the car. Next mission with the radio is to wire in bluetooth.

 

[02 281 GT]

So that's a factory Ford, 100% drop in kit?

 

[Mustang5L5]

So that's a factory Ford, 100% drop in kit?

Yup. It's a Sony made changer that is made specifically for Ford to be a 100% drop in kit for the premium. Sony-built head units. Has the Ford proprietary wiring hookups For the Mark 7 it would be 1990 and up i believe. All he Sony markings are removed, and replaced with Ford ovals and part numbers

It was never marketed for the Mustang, but it works on 1993 style premium radios (made by Sony) and would work on the 94-00 Mach 460 head unit if you ditch the slave CD unit (install the cubby) as the changer would replace that unit.


I think commercially, it would be a Sony CDX-52 changer, and uses Sony XA-10B magazines.

 

[02 281 GT]

Yup. It's a Sony made changer that is made specifically for Ford to be a 100% drop in kit for the premium. Sony-built head units. Has the Ford proprietary wiring hookups For the Mark 7 it would be 1990 and up i believe. All he Sony markings are removed, and replaced with Ford ovals and part numbers

It was never marketed for the Mustang, but it works on 1993 style premium radios (made by Sony) and would work on the 94-00 Mach 460 head unit if you ditch the slave CD unit (install the cubby) as the changer would replace that unit.


I think commercially, it would be a Sony CDX-52 changer, and uses Sony XA-10B magazines.

That explains the "L" in the third digit on the part number.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Threw the rear axle housing back into the car to check clearances. With the brakes and shafts removed, it’s light enough to easily lift into place without too much trouble.

Checked clearance on driveshaft to mufflers, tailpipes and panhard bar. All looks good.

I have to make a decision now. With the mufflers as is, I just need to make a slight modification on drivers side and they are good to go. Problem is, if I ever decide to do a torque arm down the road, I’ll likely have clearance issues. Or do I spend the time to modify both sides to make sure I have clearance down the road? Don’t worry….I know the answer to this one.

Was going to mark and drill the holes for the panhard bar, but decided to stop and read the directions first as it’s been some time. So let’s read those, and then next free night I’ll mount up the PHB.

 

[bird_dog0347]

Or option 3... order the TQ arm now and do it all at once.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Or option 3... order the TQ arm now and do it all at once.

Yeah, but with TA and springs i'm looking at $800ish in more parts. I still need to buy my axles and studs to finish the rear end

I think it will be fine for one season to try the PM3L and see how that goes. I want to get the car driving.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Panhard bar installed. Honestly, this was a pretty easy installl overall. ErictheCarGuy did a great video on YouTube, but once I had the idea was pretty simple. Maybe 2 hours start to finish? Granted I already had the rear of the car apart so that cut down on time spent.

Definitely need the tailpipes to have the ability to move. I had to get to the backside to hold the nuts.

Other than that, it’s installed but now I need to take it off. So nothing permanently set. I just need to sweep the axle and check clearances but my initial inspection looks good. Prob just take the axle out and the bar and leave the mount while I work on the exhaust. I’ll need to position the tailpipes in a specific spot and work forward.

PS. Decided i will do the torque arm…just not right now.

 

[bird_dog0347]

PS. Decided i will do the torque arm…just not right now.

 

[Mustang5L5]

In testing the range, with both uppers in place and the PHB attached, there is some serious bind. I am unable to articulate the suspension myself with it like this. Only when I remove one arm (PM3L) does it get very easy to articulate.

I know folks drive around with all 4 arms plus the PHB but that feels like it would be a crazy amount of bind.

I think what I’ll do is buy some torque arm springs and remove 1 arm and go PM3L for the summer. Since I don’t have the springs yet, I’ll run sans bar for now.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Rear axlenout again. Time to stop looking at it and make some strategic cuts and get this exhaust in.