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Had some free time this afternoon. Couple mins with the grinder, a couple tack welds. Drivers side all mocked up.
Onto the pass side.
99-04 exhaust hanger mounted up. You can see the two rubber hangers. One for the muffler and one to the tailpipe. Should keep things pretty rigid
Onto the pass side.
99-04 exhaust hanger mounted up. You can see the two rubber hangers. One for the muffler and one to the tailpipe. Should keep things pretty rigid
I chopped up my old catback. Thoight the tailpipes might be worth saving.
Or maybe not?
These things are 20+ years old. Rusted internally but still solid.
I dunno. Maybe I’ll FB marketplace them for free to someone who needs tips, but not sure it’s worth the Bs that comes with FB. Maybe I’ll just chuck them under my deck and let them sink into the mud.
Or maybe not?
These things are 20+ years old. Rusted internally but still solid.
I dunno. Maybe I’ll FB marketplace them for free to someone who needs tips, but not sure it’s worth the Bs that comes with FB. Maybe I’ll just chuck them under my deck and let them sink into the mud.
TIGGER
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Mine broke shortly after the threads. Like less than a 1/4" past the end of the threads. It sucked getting the rest of the pin out. There was a couple hours of constant swearing the first time. Second time it went much quicker but it still sucked.Where did it specifically break at?
Inspecting my old one and I can see worn area on the shaft where the center pin rubs on it.
Gonna drill a hole and put it the keychain.
And I want to say the pins I used came with the Ford cluch pack kits Weird, I did not know there was a kit made for extraction. Must be a common thing?
Both side done. I’m happy where everything sits. Now I need to remove it all so I can finish welding the one flow tube I modified and the extensions to the tailpipes. Then I’ll reinstall and weld on the muffler/tailpipe hangers.
Pulled it all apart. Welded it all up. Put it back on with the clamps just snug. Permanent mounted the panhard bar bracket.
I’m still happy with it.
Cutting up the muffler hangers. Going to tack those on tomorrow, and then tighten the clamps all up. If still happy…fully weld the hangers on and call it a day.
Then axle time
I’m still happy with it.
Cutting up the muffler hangers. Going to tack those on tomorrow, and then tighten the clamps all up. If still happy…fully weld the hangers on and call it a day.
Then axle time
Lots of progress
Got the exhaust to where I couldn’t wiggle things anymore and just clamped it all down tight and welded the hangers on. It’s solid and doesn’t move. No contact anywhere, but close in a couple spots, especially as the axle articulates up. But it clears.
The only thing that bugs me is the drivers side tailpipe sticks out maybe 1/2” more tha pass side. I had no choice as I needed clearance on the panhard bar on the drivers side as it was too close for comfort. I couldn’t make the pass side match because it would then contact the axle. So that is the one concession I had to make. If the panhard bar wasn’t there, I could make them even easily
But, a few things left to do.
Torque upper control arm bolts.
Bleed brakes
Torque driveshaft bolts.
Did I start it yet? No.
Will I soon? You betcha.
Got the exhaust to where I couldn’t wiggle things anymore and just clamped it all down tight and welded the hangers on. It’s solid and doesn’t move. No contact anywhere, but close in a couple spots, especially as the axle articulates up. But it clears.
The only thing that bugs me is the drivers side tailpipe sticks out maybe 1/2” more tha pass side. I had no choice as I needed clearance on the panhard bar on the drivers side as it was too close for comfort. I couldn’t make the pass side match because it would then contact the axle. So that is the one concession I had to make. If the panhard bar wasn’t there, I could make them even easily
But, a few things left to do.
Torque upper control arm bolts.
Bleed brakes
Torque driveshaft bolts.
Did I start it yet? No.
Will I soon? You betcha.
Also, scored myself a sort of barn find.
1982 Kawasaki CSR 305
1200 original miles. My dad bought this new, drove it for a bit and then gave it to his brother. He never drove it. I never knew this bike existed. Recently made it back to my dad and he lacks the mechanical ability to get it going, so it comes to me.
I’m not really a bike guy, but this could be a fun project to get a change of pace from the fox. It needs a lot thought as it sat for almost 40 years. The tires are original, the brake master cylinder is corroded, and it’s got dust and oxidation all over. I’m sure the carb is toast.
I’d like to get it running again.
1982 Kawasaki CSR 305
1200 original miles. My dad bought this new, drove it for a bit and then gave it to his brother. He never drove it. I never knew this bike existed. Recently made it back to my dad and he lacks the mechanical ability to get it going, so it comes to me.
I’m not really a bike guy, but this could be a fun project to get a change of pace from the fox. It needs a lot thought as it sat for almost 40 years. The tires are original, the brake master cylinder is corroded, and it’s got dust and oxidation all over. I’m sure the carb is toast.
I’d like to get it running again.
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I believe the driver side pipe was longer than the passenger on my Coupe as well. My buddy expertly cut it with a sawzall and then hand filed the end to match the passenger. Want to say this is pretty common with the panhard bar install.
This is why I loved the SN95 axles when using 17x8 SN95 wheels
Before
After
Now if only my wheels would get back in stock so I can order two more
Before
After
Now if only my wheels would get back in stock so I can order two more
Mocking up the PHB. I’m debating pulling the pass side upper control arm and installing the TA rear springs now. Should be fine for couple hundred miles this season until I do the TA
Reason being that the rear of this car is now stiff as hell. There’s no more roll. I’m worried about the ride quality hit, but guess we should try it out first.
But…before I torque the upper arm down it’s the perfect time to remove it. Maybe I will…..
Reason being that the rear of this car is now stiff as hell. There’s no more roll. I’m worried about the ride quality hit, but guess we should try it out first.
But…before I torque the upper arm down it’s the perfect time to remove it. Maybe I will…..
I bet you could make some sort of garage art with those stainless tips!I chopped up my old catback. Thoight the tailpipes might be worth saving.
Or maybe not?
These things are 20+ years old. Rusted internally but still solid.
I dunno. Maybe I’ll FB marketplace them for free to someone who needs tips, but not sure it’s worth the Bs that comes with FB. Maybe I’ll just chuck them under my deck and let them sink into the mud.
Nah. I got enough garage art. I want them gone but I hate to cut them up and scrap them. Seems like a waste.
On my trans pan . I’ve had it down 3 times with the same gasket alreadyAnyone ever use this type of gasket? Supposedly reusable?
Also, new pin for insurance.
Need to pull the studs on first, and then I can dump the gear oil in and install the diff cover and the axle is done. Will install rotors, calipers and dust shields on the car when done to cut down on weight and damage.
I would call MM and ask their opinion as they are the experts and have great customer service. I'm guessing the right answer is to remove one of the upper arms, but not sure about the springs, what is the difference in the rate?
Already sent them a message last night.
the torque arm springs are a higher rate to compensate for the lose of "spring" rate when you remove the upper arms. That rate was in the form of bind.
My concern is now if the Bilstiens will handle the higher spring rate.
However, with the PHB installed i did some reading on rear suspension setups and I forgot about how the roll center changed with the PHB when you go PM3L or TA. Now, the issue is hitting the tops of the tires into the inner fender areas. Most folks run a spacer to fix this, and some even recommend going to SN95 axles. So, i might have to try a 1/4" spacer when the time comes, or even go back to the SN5 axles.
I'm gonna pause for now. I'll remove the bar from the PHB and install both upper control arms and go back to the rear suspension setup I had before and drive the car a bit. I'll research and get parts and this can be next winter's project. Right now I just want to hear the Borla's and go for a spin around the block or maybe even a local car show.
Nice weather is here and I want a functional car. I'll mess with this stuff in due time.
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MM responded.
The 42TA5 springs are what I will run and the Bilstiens will work fine with them. I'll get those on order.
U have boxed upper control arms. May not be ideal for a PM3L. I might just hold off on that and do the TA and springs and such all at the same time and just dial it all in once.
Like i said...right now i'm just itching to back the car out of the garage this spring.
Guess it's now or never on finding a good deal on an IRS before i finally go and order that Torque Arm
The 42TA5 springs are what I will run and the Bilstiens will work fine with them. I'll get those on order.
U have boxed upper control arms. May not be ideal for a PM3L. I might just hold off on that and do the TA and springs and such all at the same time and just dial it all in once.
Like i said...right now i'm just itching to back the car out of the garage this spring.
Guess it's now or never on finding a good deal on an IRS before i finally go and order that Torque Arm
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Locally they are in the $2-3K range these days. I don't really want to pay that. But to be clear, i'm not really actively looking for one.
$1500-1800 would prob be a good deal but I think those days are long gone... I had dibs on one for $600 about 10 years ago....kicking myself for not getting it.
At this point, I think i'll just buy the TA and call it a day.
$1500-1800 would prob be a good deal but I think those days are long gone... I had dibs on one for $600 about 10 years ago....kicking myself for not getting it.
At this point, I think i'll just buy the TA and call it a day.
www.car-parts.com
Two in PA at the same salvage yard for $1300 and $1500. Bit of a drive but you may get them to motor freight it to you for couple hundred bucks.
Two in PA at the same salvage yard for $1300 and $1500. Bit of a drive but you may get them to motor freight it to you for couple hundred bucks.
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