Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Archived Progress thread '08-'20.
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I bought materials to go bothways. I bought the Eastwood 2K in a can stuff. I did not use it. Fortunately Eastwood will take returns on paints, so that's one reason I chose to use their materials. Whatever I don't use goes back.
It's all in primer right now. I used Eastwood 1K primer, which they say you can spray a 2K on top of. So I bought both the 2K and 1K chassis black for topcoat. I still am on the fence about which to use. I stunk the house up today pretty good and it still lingers as of right now. Fortunately, nobody else is home other than myself, so it's 50 degrees out (and dropping) and I have the windows open running the whole house fan to clear out the smell. I think i'm good now though.
I may not use the 2K due to this. If I had a detached garage/barn, I would just do it.
My understanding....I need to sand the primer in 600-1000 grit before I spray the topcoat? I'm going to see if I can get this done tomorrow, which means more cleaning and blowing off dust and prep and prep and prep.....
Steel1
Mustang Master
I wouldn't go any finer than 600 or you could have adhesion problems.
I've used 400 in the past but in the right light you could see some sanding scratches , now
I normally use 500 or 600 grit.
I had a feeling the stink would permeate the house on you and that was 1k .
Yeah, I thought I would be fine with keeping the fumes out and had a plan, but guess it didn’t work. Maybe it was the sheer volume of paint, or maybe the wind direction happened to just blow it back? Either way, not an ideal layout for vehicle painting at all. Quite bad actually. all cleared up now though...although it’s 40 degrees out now.
when I coyote swap the car in 5-10 years, I’ll strip the entire car down to a bare shell and have a shop paint it all for me (either vermillion red or Bright Atlantic Blue)
when I coyote swap the car in 5-10 years, I’ll strip the entire car down to a bare shell and have a shop paint it all for me (either vermillion red or Bright Atlantic Blue)
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Done.
not the best job, as I can see some faint sanding marks here and there, but I did my best. Fortunately most of my blemishes will be covered by engine equipment so I won’t loose too much sleep. Battery, Stock Airbox, all the AC stuff, coil cover,etc.
Gonna let it sit a few weeks then time to reassemble. As with anything, I learned a few things here. The next time I ever do something like this, I’d do a few things differently.
I was right up on the edge weather wise. Temp dropping fast
not the best job, as I can see some faint sanding marks here and there, but I did my best. Fortunately most of my blemishes will be covered by engine equipment so I won’t loose too much sleep. Battery, Stock Airbox, all the AC stuff, coil cover,etc.
Gonna let it sit a few weeks then time to reassemble. As with anything, I learned a few things here. The next time I ever do something like this, I’d do a few things differently.
I was right up on the edge weather wise. Temp dropping fast
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Also, looks like I need new header bolts. The ARP bolts do not protrude far enough into my JBA headers.
I was going to buy the stage 8 locking header bolt kit, but now I wonder how long the bolts are and if I need to source my own hardware instead.
Edit. the stage 8 are 1” in thread lenght. Mine are 3/4”.
I was going to buy the stage 8 locking header bolt kit, but now I wonder how long the bolts are and if I need to source my own hardware instead.
Edit. the stage 8 are 1” in thread lenght. Mine are 3/4”.
WhiteCobra95
Mod Dude
- May 2, 2006
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The engine compartment looks great! Nice job!
Most common header bolts are 0.75" long. I think this is a hold-over bolt length from old-school headers which had really thin flanges. This doesn't work very well with most modern-day 5/8" flanges, where there's only a couple of threads left to bite into the head after a gasket is in place. You can get by on iron heads, but this too risky with aluminum heads like yours. You can get the stage 8s in 1" or 1.25" lengths which will give you the extra thread length that you need. I like the 1.25" legth because usually the bolt holes go pretty deep and the longer the better, but they can be too long to angle through the flange depending on how the primary tubes are bent on your headers. I used to mix the two sizes on my big blocks for the most robust fit.
Most common header bolts are 0.75" long. I think this is a hold-over bolt length from old-school headers which had really thin flanges. This doesn't work very well with most modern-day 5/8" flanges, where there's only a couple of threads left to bite into the head after a gasket is in place. You can get by on iron heads, but this too risky with aluminum heads like yours. You can get the stage 8s in 1" or 1.25" lengths which will give you the extra thread length that you need. I like the 1.25" legth because usually the bolt holes go pretty deep and the longer the better, but they can be too long to angle through the flange depending on how the primary tubes are bent on your headers. I used to mix the two sizes on my big blocks for the most robust fit.
I'm probably going to measure the depth of the threaded hole with the flange and get the 1.25" length if it will fit. Being new heads with clean threads, I should have no problem getting them in all the way. The JBA header flanges are pretty thick and 3/4" is definitely not enough thread to avoid stripping. Need at least 1"
DON'T use the the 1k chassis black, I made that mistake... it does not hold up to any solvents.. and I followed all the instructions ( I sprayed it over the epoxy primer too), and a year later (car not in use) I was blowing off the dust with my air hose and the damn paint start peeling off in sheets (primer was only thing left).... and I also had the engine back in now.. so I had to re-scuff the bay, cover and tape up motor and then repaint it... I used the 2k stuff this time, I used there under hood 2k paint this time. (I sprayed more of the epoxy primer first after scuffing)
Today marked a milestone. First time parts are going back into the car after 13 months of disassembly.
it’s a small milestone, but a mental victory
so I started pulling parts out. Looks like I have a lot of restoration work ahead of me. This battery tray has seen better days.
so, in pure Mustang5L5 fashion, we roll up out sleeves and start breaking down the windshield wiper motor to clean it up, relube, and paint. Gonna be a long winter...
it’s a small milestone, but a mental victory
so I started pulling parts out. Looks like I have a lot of restoration work ahead of me. This battery tray has seen better days.
so, in pure Mustang5L5 fashion, we roll up out sleeves and start breaking down the windshield wiper motor to clean it up, relube, and paint. Gonna be a long winter...
Somehow I knew this wouldn’t happen after the paint went on.
Looking forward to see the resto on all the small parts!!
Yeah I know. I gotta do something to keep moving forwards. I'll wait a couple weeks to bolt the k-member in though! (maybe)
No, but it's faded and scratched to hell. Plus the battery hold down to the tray is actually broken. I may just grab the reproduction and new hardware for this part. I'm trying to restore/rebuild as much as my original parts as I possibly can but this one i might just go new.
Honestly, a tray from an SN-95 Mustang looks very similar and is still available as a new Ford part.
F6ZZ10732AA - Ford Tray Assembly - Battery. Electrical | Lakeland Ford Online Parts, Lakeland FL
Genuine Ford Part # F6ZZ10732AA (F6ZZ-10732-AA) - Tray Assembly - Battery. Electrical, Lighting, Telematics. Fits Mustang. Ships from Lakeland Ford Online Parts, Lakeland FL
parts.lakelandford.com
It does look similar. I'll have to do some research to see if it mounts in the same locations using the same hardware. CHeap too. Thanks for the link
Decided to put a few things back in. I guess at some point in the 20-something years I owned the car, I did do a spray-paint touch up in the bay. I don't actually remember doing that,nor did I notice in the bay.
A little wetsanding, and good as net. Tossed it in the car.
Also decided i was sick of tripping over this K-member sitting in my office, so i put it in the car. It's technically not install, just hanging on the bolts. I need to get some supplies to square it up first before i can bolt it up. At least it can hang here for now. Just noticed it's a little dusty from sitting around for a year.
A little wetsanding, and good as net. Tossed it in the car.
Also decided i was sick of tripping over this K-member sitting in my office, so i put it in the car. It's technically not install, just hanging on the bolts. I need to get some supplies to square it up first before i can bolt it up. At least it can hang here for now. Just noticed it's a little dusty from sitting around for a year.
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In searching for new fasteners for various parts....
I found this
Lot of money to drop a couple pounds. Beautiful stuff though
I found this
Ford Mustang Bolts & Fasteners | Titanium Bolt Kits & More
Retrofit your Ford Mustang with our durable, lightweight titanium bolts & fasteners. Buy now to enjoy our low prices & fast shipping on all orders.
www.ti64.com
Lot of money to drop a couple pounds. Beautiful stuff though
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