Is that an o-ring?
Did you end up going 2k, or something less hazardous?
I wouldn't go any finer than 600 or you could have adhesion problems.I need to sand the primer in 600-1000 grit before I spray the topcoat?
DON'T use the the 1k chassis black, I made that mistake... it does not hold up to any solvents.. and I followed all the instructions ( I sprayed it over the epoxy primer too), and a year later (car not in use) I was blowing off the dust with my air hose and the damn paint start peeling off in sheets (primer was only thing left).... and I also had the engine back in now.. so I had to re-scuff the bay, cover and tape up motor and then repaint it... I used the 2k stuff this time, I used there under hood 2k paint this time. (I sprayed more of the epoxy primer first after scuffing)I bought materials to go bothways. I bought the Eastwood 2K in a can stuff. I did not use it. Fortunately Eastwood will take returns on paints, so that's one reason I chose to use their materials. Whatever I don't use goes back.
It's all in primer right now. I used Eastwood 1K primer, which they say you can spray a 2K on top of. So I bought both the 2K and 1K chassis black for topcoat. I still am on the fence about which to use. I stunk the house up today pretty good and it still lingers as of right now. Fortunately, nobody else is home other than myself, so it's 50 degrees out (and dropping) and I have the windows open running the whole house fan to clear out the smell. I think i'm good now though.
I may not use the 2K due to this. If I had a detached garage/barn, I would just do it.
My understanding....I need to sand the primer in 600-1000 grit before I spray the topcoat? I'm going to see if I can get this done tomorrow, which means more cleaning and blowing off dust and prep and prep and prep.....
Somehow I knew this wouldn’t happen after the paint went on.and then maybe take a few weeks off from the car
Somehow I knew this wouldn’t happen after the paint went on.
Looking forward to see the resto on all the small parts!!
There's an overpriced repro of the batter tray you can get from various places. Your's doesn't look cracked, though.
Honestly, a tray from an SN-95 Mustang looks very similar and is still available as a new Ford part.Yeah I know. I gotta do something to keep moving forwards. I'll wait a couple weeks to bolt the k-member in though! (maybe)
No, but it's faded and scratched to hell. Plus the battery hold down to the tray is actually broken. I may just grab the reproduction and new hardware for this part. I'm trying to restore/rebuild as much as my original parts as I possibly can but this one i might just go new.
Honestly, a tray from an SN-95 Mustang looks very similar and is still available as a new Ford part.
F6ZZ10732AA - Ford Tray Assembly - Battery. Electrical | Lakeland Ford Online Parts, Lakeland FL
Genuine Ford Part # F6ZZ10732AA (F6ZZ-10732-AA) - Tray Assembly - Battery. Electrical, Lighting, Telematics. Fits Mustang. Ships from Lakeland Ford Online Parts, Lakeland FLparts.lakelandford.com