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My conclusion on mods, please review

  • Thread starter Thread starter peonslayer
  • Start date Start date May 22, 2006
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peonslayer

New Member
Dec 13, 2004
11
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May 22, 2006
#1
  • May 22, 2006
  • #1
I have done endless hours of research on different mods and have come up with this upgrade path. These are listed in the order I will probably do them in with a quitting point somewhere along the line.

JLT II CAI and Tune ($550) - The C&L CAI is also popular, but the JLT got 2nd place in a magazine revew. The issues that kept it from 1st have been worked out in the II version. It comes with XCalibrator which is generally held as the better tuner and it is 200 bucks cheaper. (28hp)

4.10 Gears ($550 est.) - These need to be from FRPP and is another mod that nets you a lot of gain for little money. This will take about 2/3 10's off your quarter mile. My question is how much is this going to help at highway speeds. I get in a lot of quick races that are 60-100ish sprints. It will probably help that 60/70 is a ****ty shift spot for a manual. (.2-.3 tenths quarter mile)

UD Pulleys ($250+1.5 hours install) - This nets about 8 to 10 rwhp and scares me more than any other mod (of the ones I plan to do). It slows down your water pump and the oil pump problems some people have reported sound scary. Sure this is safe??? I like the cheap horsepower though. Does this require a tune?

Exhaust - I will probably do this upgrade just for the sound. Borla Axle-Back or SLP are the two I will probably choose from. Real HP gains here are really only noticed with long tube headers. That gets expensive fast. Costs over a grand for the LT and then install is a pain and expensive if you have to pay. All in all a full exhaust upgrade will cost about 2g+ with about a (15-20 hp gain). One magazine did a full upgrade and they were getting 15 rwhp. Not a lot considering the cost. An exhaust upgrade would also require a custom tune.

Tires/Rear Suspension - Is this really needed beyond drag racing the quarter. You can get some real gains out of drag radials and upgrading the lower and upper control arms. Wheel hop is bad in stock form. The first time I dragged mine I experienced this first hand. But I don't really ever notice it much on the street to be honest. Is this gain totally lost at highway speeds? How often do you really get to clutch dump on the street in a race. Might be good for the fun factor. This one also can be expensive. It appears that you really need to upgrade your wheels to something wider if you are going with DR's. I have the FRPP chrome wheels, very nice wheels, but they have the stock measurements. But I really like them and don't feel like spending a grand on wheels. So tires can end up being like 2 grand by the time you buy wheels. If anyone has suggestion on DR for stock rims list away. I need something that can also be run on the street. MT I hear isn't really for that.

Shift Light - I will probably do this first but it is such a minor mod didn't list it higher. The tach is freaking hard to watch in a street race. One rev-limiter hit and your screwed.

Short-Throw Shifter - Are there really any gains here? Like a tenth?

Supercharger - Too many bad stories about supercharging the Mustang. Magazines have done reviews stating why the motor won't handle much over 425 hp without blowing up in the near future. So I am going to supercharge and run 400 rwhp and hope this car lasts any significant time. Paying 5 grand for something that will shorten car life so much is too pricey for me. I would be better to save money and buy an 03/04 cobra or save up for the new one.

Nitrous - You have to retard your timing and lose your tune gains to run nitrous. Losing 30 all the time hp isn't worth getting 75-100 only when you juice. Plus you have to use a safe tune and run cold plugs. So without the juice you probably dip below 300 hp. This is real risky.

Please feel free to correct me and provide input.

Thanks
 

JTGrant

New Member
Aug 2, 2005
775
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0
GA
May 22, 2006
#2
  • May 22, 2006
  • #2
just because you hit the rev limiter does mean that you are screwed. It is there to keep you from getting scewed. However rev limiter does not save you from a mechanical over rev (missing a shift and goes into the wrong gear like 2-1 instead of 2-3 or 3-2 instead of 3-4). I have seem someone do this, the guy that bought my E36 M3 (With a lot of mods) shifted from 2 to 1 instead of 2 to 3 hauling a$$. The engine by my calculations tached out at around 9500 RPM. The guy bought the car and has had no problems with the engine. I guess he got lucky.
 

L33T

New Member
Apr 29, 2006
23
0
0
Va Beach Va
May 22, 2006
#3
  • May 22, 2006
  • #3
You've certainly put some good thought into it. I agree with your order of mods with one exception.

I would put the IMRC deletes on before the UD's. In my application I gained alot more from IMRC's than I did the UD's.
 

JTGrant

New Member
Aug 2, 2005
775
0
0
GA
May 22, 2006
#4
  • May 22, 2006
  • #4
how do you like the Charge motion delete plates? That will be my next mod. Anyone info/articles?
 

tomustang

Psychotic Member
Founding Member
Jun 8, 2000
3,434
2
78
McLean Hospital
May 22, 2006
#5
  • May 22, 2006
  • #5
peonslayer said:
How often do you really get to clutch dump on the street in a race.
Click to expand...
Street racing is stupid.
 
8

8850

Founding Member
Jun 3, 2000
464
0
16
TX
May 22, 2006
#6
  • May 22, 2006
  • #6
L33T said:
You've certainly put some good thought into it. I agree with your order of mods with one exception.

I would put the IMRC deletes on before the UD's. In my application I gained alot more from IMRC's than I did the UD's.
Click to expand...
Do you have any track or dyno numbers for the two?
 

L33T

New Member
Apr 29, 2006
23
0
0
Va Beach Va
May 22, 2006
#7
  • May 22, 2006
  • #7
I sure do.
Lemme get a pic of it.
Excuse the quality but I believe it's legible. (cell phone camera)

Two runs, labeled (1) and (2).
You can see a gain of 20rwhp and 20fptq on the run labeled (1), the only addition being the IMRC's.

The baseline run is not labeled but you can see it parallel the #2 run by about 8-10 hp, this was without the UD's and run #2 with was with UD's. (+8-10)



This was all graphed before I added the LT's and the Prochamber.
Hope it helps.
 
8

8850

Founding Member
Jun 3, 2000
464
0
16
TX
May 22, 2006
#8
  • May 22, 2006
  • #8
L33T said:
I sure do.
Lemme get a pic of it.
Excuse the quality but I believe it's legible. (cell phone camera)

Two runs, labeled (1) and (2).
You can see a gain of 20rwhp and 20fptq on the run labeled (1), the only addition being the IMRC's.

The baseline run is not labeled but you can see it parallel the #2 run by about 8-10 hp, this was without the UD's and run #2 with was with UD's. (+8-10)



This was all graphed before I added the LT's and the Prochamber.
Hope it helps.
Click to expand...
Good info! Thanks. From what others have said the elimination of plates doesn't do much. Looks like they just may.
 

JTGrant

New Member
Aug 2, 2005
775
0
0
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May 22, 2006
#9
  • May 22, 2006
  • #9
how was the SOTP feeling after the charge motion plate deletes? According to the dyno sheets it did give a nice increase. Were the two dyno runs done on the same day?
 

L33T

New Member
Apr 29, 2006
23
0
0
Va Beach Va
May 22, 2006
#10
  • May 22, 2006
  • #10
The labeled runs were very close together on the same day, the baseline was not on the same day. I definitely felt the IMRC's where I didn't really the UD's.
 

JTGrant

New Member
Aug 2, 2005
775
0
0
GA
May 22, 2006
#11
  • May 22, 2006
  • #11
Everyone has a different opinion/dyno result. I have heard that you gain anywhere from 8 to 20 rwhp. That is weird that it is the wide of a spectrum. At the same time it all depends on the tune, dyno, conditions, and heat sink. Anyone else have any other dyno results with Charge motion deletes?
 

PDXStangDude

Member
Apr 12, 2006
163
0
16
Tigard, Oregon
May 23, 2006
#12
  • May 23, 2006
  • #12
what the heck is a 'charge motion delete'?

Sincerly,

Clueless
 

mltdwn12

New Member
May 17, 2006
16
0
1
Peoria, AZ
May 23, 2006
#13
  • May 23, 2006
  • #13
PDXStangDude said:
what the heck is a 'charge motion delete'?

Sincerly,

Clueless
Click to expand...

Yeah, being new to the late model Mustang, that's was my question also
Also IMRC????
 

L33T

New Member
Apr 29, 2006
23
0
0
Va Beach Va
May 23, 2006
#14
  • May 23, 2006
  • #14
Google is your friend. Click this link and give the first result a gander.
 

PDXStangDude

Member
Apr 12, 2006
163
0
16
Tigard, Oregon
May 23, 2006
#15
  • May 23, 2006
  • #15
L33T said:
Google is your friend. Click this link and give the first result a gander.
Click to expand...
Okay, I wasn't as clueless as I thought. Saw these on Steeda's site just forgot the name.
 

REDFIRE 05 GT

New Member
Nov 18, 2004
283
0
0
Junction City KS
May 23, 2006
#16
  • May 23, 2006
  • #16
peonslayer said:
I have done endless hours of research on different mods and have come up with this upgrade path. These are listed in the order I will probably do them in with a quitting point somewhere along the line.

JLT II CAI and Tune ($550) - The C&L CAI is also popular, but the JLT got 2nd place in a magazine revew. The issues that kept it from 1st have been worked out in the II version. It comes with XCalibrator which is generally held as the better tuner and it is 200 bucks cheaper. (28hp)

4.10 Gears ($550 est.) - These need to be from FRPP and is another mod that nets you a lot of gain for little money. This will take about 2/3 10's off your quarter mile. My question is how much is this going to help at highway speeds. I get in a lot of quick races that are 60-100ish sprints. It will probably help that 60/70 is a ****ty shift spot for a manual. (.2-.3 tenths quarter mile)

UD Pulleys ($250+1.5 hours install) - This nets about 8 to 10 rwhp and scares me more than any other mod (of the ones I plan to do). It slows down your water pump and the oil pump problems some people have reported sound scary. Sure this is safe??? I like the cheap horsepower though. Does this require a tune?

Exhaust - I will probably do this upgrade just for the sound. Borla Axle-Back or SLP are the two I will probably choose from. Real HP gains here are really only noticed with long tube headers. That gets expensive fast. Costs over a grand for the LT and then install is a pain and expensive if you have to pay. All in all a full exhaust upgrade will cost about 2g+ with about a (15-20 hp gain). One magazine did a full upgrade and they were getting 15 rwhp. Not a lot considering the cost. An exhaust upgrade would also require a custom tune.

Tires/Rear Suspension - Is this really needed beyond drag racing the quarter. You can get some real gains out of drag radials and upgrading the lower and upper control arms. Wheel hop is bad in stock form. The first time I dragged mine I experienced this first hand. But I don't really ever notice it much on the street to be honest. Is this gain totally lost at highway speeds? How often do you really get to clutch dump on the street in a race. Might be good for the fun factor. This one also can be expensive. It appears that you really need to upgrade your wheels to something wider if you are going with DR's. I have the FRPP chrome wheels, very nice wheels, but they have the stock measurements. But I really like them and don't feel like spending a grand on wheels. So tires can end up being like 2 grand by the time you buy wheels. If anyone has suggestion on DR for stock rims list away. I need something that can also be run on the street. MT I hear isn't really for that.

Shift Light - I will probably do this first but it is such a minor mod didn't list it higher. The tach is freaking hard to watch in a street race. One rev-limiter hit and your screwed.

Short-Throw Shifter - Are there really any gains here? Like a tenth?

Supercharger - Too many bad stories about supercharging the Mustang. Magazines have done reviews stating why the motor won't handle much over 425 hp without blowing up in the near future. So I am going to supercharge and run 400 rwhp and hope this car lasts any significant time. Paying 5 grand for something that will shorten car life so much is too pricey for me. I would be better to save money and buy an 03/04 cobra or save up for the new one.

Nitrous - You have to retard your timing and lose your tune gains to run nitrous. Losing 30 all the time hp isn't worth getting 75-100 only when you juice. Plus you have to use a safe tune and run cold plugs. So without the juice you probably dip below 300 hp. This is real risky.

Please feel free to correct me and provide input.

Thanks
Click to expand...


Do you actually own a Mustang or are you just reading every magazine article on the planet?
 
P

peonslayer

New Member
Dec 13, 2004
11
0
0
May 24, 2006
#17
  • May 24, 2006
  • #17
No I thought I would do all of this research and mod my pretend car.
 
M

Mike06_10pm

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
98
0
0
May 24, 2006
#18
  • May 24, 2006
  • #18
peonslayer said:
No I thought I would do all of this research and mod my pretend car.
Click to expand...

hahahahaa had me laughin
-mike
 

billfisher

Active Member
Jul 17, 2005
1,296
4
38
huntsville, AL
May 24, 2006
#19
  • May 24, 2006
  • #19
i deleted mine before i ever put it in. it can't hurt to get rid of any restriction.
 

SamMan

New Member
Aug 20, 2005
121
0
0
Denton, TX
May 25, 2006
#20
  • May 25, 2006
  • #20
With regards to nitrous you can get a flip chip and switch from nitrous to N/A tunes on the fly.
 
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