Forced Induction New Engine And Turbo - First Start Questions

FoxMustangLvr said:

By bleeding the boost to atmosphere your engine becomes just like most other naturally aspirated HCI 306 builds out there. Steve (or whoever) just needs to set up your start up/idle settings which should be similar, with exception to cam, to most other combos. What some people worry about with big injectors on brand new engines with new tunes is accidentally dumping too much fuel on start up/idle and washing the cylinders with fuel. This would result in a rebuild. It doesn't happen often but some rookies have overlooked a setting had bad things happen which is why you're getting the recommendation to install smaller injectors for your first start up. I'm going to bow out of this conversation from here on out regarding tuning, Steve is the only voice you need IMO. I can chime in on other things if I see a need.

Post some pics of your ride! Good luck bro!

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FoxMustangLvr said:

Reminds me of my previous notch I had before I bought my hatch. Except yours is much nicer

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a91what said:

Do you want to tune it SD [speed density] or with the MAF sensor? depending on your answer my advice will change.

as long as you are ready to go [fully built, good gas in tank, charged battery, good Wideband wired into the Pimp or MS3] I can help.

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FoxMustangLvr said:

Someone on the Stinger message boards asked if the PimpXS could run MAF and why more people haven't incorporated MAF over the SD function.......

Shannon at Stinger replied
"When the ECU is not tuneable, MAF is superior as it can adjust for variables you can't tune for (mods, sensors wearing out, engine degradation over time, etc.). When you have an ECU that's completely tuneable that benefit goes away since you can tune for mods, see when sensors are wearing out and replace them, etc.

Nothing is measuring airflow with an SD system. The MAP is measuring pressure/load (vacuum/boost) which is what's used to determine fuel and spark requirements.

As to why our customers haven't used MAF, it's simply a matter of starting with speed density and getting done tuning and it running better than it's ever ran (even when it was MAF before). Once that happens, nobody has decided they needed to spend money on a MAF in hopes of improving something that already runs better than ever and perfect as far as they can tell. From what I've seen, most of the "benefits" people have reported with MAF with a tuneable ECU has been with idle quality but spark is a more responsive way to control idle. So those individuals chose to use MAF to fix idle rather than taking the time to use the features that are available to them to control idle (close loop idle control, idle spark table, etc.)."

Read more: http://stinger-performance.proboards.com/thread/5914/pimpxs-support-maf#ixzz56GYFwBrT

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FoxMustangLvr said:

I've learned many lessons just like you are doing and sometimes at a financial loss. If you choose to go SD (which I did), you could sell your MAF to recover some costs. In order to run SD, you just disconnect and remove your stock MAF and tuck away the connector. Next you disconnect your MAP sensor that's located on your firewall near your vacuum tree and remove it (tuck connectors away). The PIMP (at least on mine) has a MAP sensor inside the ECU. The PIMP will come with a +/- 6' length of vacuum hose to connect your ECU to a part of your intake manifold that will see both vacuum AND boost. It's that simple to convert MAF to SD.

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