I highly doubt my upper and lower will stay together for more than a couple months.If you're asking me I skim coat upper and lower surface and both sides of the spacer, just a thin coat, it's only an airway, this way you only need to snug the bolts/studs and couple times during the first couple heat cycles,
Not hard to take apart after it has been clamped for years.
Appreciate that, I will give it a shot.See of you can get a clamp on the hinges to squeeze them and then maybe the cotter pins will fit. Mine didn't fit well either. In fact from the first time I did it 20+ years ago, I have a baby pin in it.
It really wasn't that bad. Just get good support on the door so you get it in the sweet spot and they will come right out. They were definitely replaced at some point. Pins were actually in pretty good condition. Bushings were what gave up the ghost. I got a little hung up on the fender on the top pin. My fenders are all bent and creased any ways so I just pulled the pin out all willy nilly. Actually pulled my other fenders out over the weekend. Maybe I'll do that next.... And take 2 pictures at the start of work.Ugh, not looking forward to doing this. My drivers side has gotten pretty bad.
Did you have to cut the pin in half with a Dremel or something or no because the pins had been replaced previously?
I absolutely despise the fox body replacement pins with cotter pins or e-clips, yes they can back out if the hinges egged out bad enough. I switched to the threaded style pins as they replicate the factory swedged pins and provided some what of a clamp load.Driver door always sagged a little. Got real bad one day out of the blue. Must've exploded the last remaining bushings. All 4 of them were broken. @2000xp8 mentioned in a thread from last year about hanging a door from his garage ceiling. I park under a leanto so I just put a ratchet strap around the door and to the rafter and went up a click at a time until I could see the pins move. Tapped them out and replaced them. Pretty simple. Only issue I had was the cotter pins. I absolutely could not get them into the new hinge pins. Can the hinge pins back out without the cotters in? Im guessing the new pins weren't drilled correctly or they are a little shorter. Door closes so easily now. Very happy with the fix.
Not very good at keep track of my work with pictures. I get to working and it just slips my mind. I'll get better..... Maybe.
They are interchangeable. Just not sure I want to go that route. Has anyone had personal experience with this? Would I be looking at any extra headache if I used the older fenders?What do you mean you have the wrong fenders? What are they from??
I'm not sure the year of your car, but if i'm changing fenders, i'm using the newer ones with wider opening.They are interchangeable. Just not sure I want to go that route. Has anyone had personal experience with this? Would I be looking at any extra headache if I used the older fenders?
| Years | Fender geometry |
|---|---|
| 1979–1982 | Original wheel opening. |
| 1983–1986 | Same basic fender geometry despite the nose changes. |
| 1987–1990 | Same basic geometry carried into the aero cars. |
| 1991–1993 | Enlarged wheel opening for the factory 16-inch wheel/tire package. The lower front edge of the opening angles farther forward, shortening the section ahead of the tire. |
Top pin all ways goes in from the bottom side up do to the body line of the door but There nyloc nuts, they ain't backing off..So can you get the E350 hinge pins in so that the nut is on the bottom on both hinges? Only asking as if the nut ever came off this would at least give the pin a chance to stay put.
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