Picking the right Heads??
- Thread starter hemmerk
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For your setup AFR 165s FTMFW!!!!!!!................u can save a hundred or 2 and buy less quality but why, i would say what u have is modified imho mildly modified is a K&N and headers. AFR 165s will respond great with your mods for street or track, it just comes down to they flow better than most others and better quality, so if u do want to add any power adders later face it we all do sooner or later u will have the right heads for the task. Im having RNH Performance build and install a 331 stroker with AFR 185 heads with a custom cam, shot of nitrous. And my car will be mostly a showcar, streetcar and then a strip car running maybe 15 passes a year at the track, i plan on driving to Carlisle, PA next summer and i live in central jersey gonna be a fun ride cant wait!!
You want documented flow charts on a head is what I would look for. You can port the head, but if the port is not flowing like the others, or close to it, you are gonna be all erratic on the performance.
You have someone with a porting tool that hogs out the hole is once the air hits that open room that was once a closet, is the air slows down and your performance lags is the head (port) shut down the air speed is she was way too big and now a stocker would have flowed better.
Now, you have that head(s) so as to match-blend the intake and exhaust hangers. In other words, you are going to have to press a foot print from intake port to head port so no edge acts as a wall that the air bumps into. Because (the bolt on flowing parts, i.e., manifolds), are now you slow-down-hanger-on's. Your work begins is so much work now on the intakes and exhaust end hangers. Where now, you take the header or if you use a flange for the header, then grind that away to match the exhaust port. You got the drill...
Moving air fast is no easy job. It's how detailed do you want those (parts hanging off each end of the head) to match that air going in and heading out is make it flow as fast as possible is the key for the... Need for Speed.
You have someone with a porting tool that hogs out the hole is once the air hits that open room that was once a closet, is the air slows down and your performance lags is the head (port) shut down the air speed is she was way too big and now a stocker would have flowed better.
Now, you have that head(s) so as to match-blend the intake and exhaust hangers. In other words, you are going to have to press a foot print from intake port to head port so no edge acts as a wall that the air bumps into. Because (the bolt on flowing parts, i.e., manifolds), are now you slow-down-hanger-on's. Your work begins is so much work now on the intakes and exhaust end hangers. Where now, you take the header or if you use a flange for the header, then grind that away to match the exhaust port. You got the drill...
Moving air fast is no easy job. It's how detailed do you want those (parts hanging off each end of the head) to match that air going in and heading out is make it flow as fast as possible is the key for the... Need for Speed.
did u buy the car with that intake and cam on car already, because if u did the odds are u already have upgraded heads most of the time if u have a cam even a mild e cam u would have put heads on too. But if u do have stock E7 heads u really want to get some good heads u already have 95% of what u need stock E7 heads suck they dont flow for sh__ so with upgraded heads u will feel a major difference, i would go with AFR 165s u will love the difference!!!!!!!!!
OW yeah if u dont really know what your doing let someone else do its really not that expensive of a job
I moderate when it comes to working on cars, I can do a lot, but I dont do major stuff. Yes, the cam and intake were already on the car, but the heads themselves look like they are older. But I am not for sure, and when I bought the car nothing was mentioned about the heads...is there any way to indentify?
They could be GT40 Iron heads still a decent head, but if u have the money your setup would go nice with a set of aluminum heads u have the rest of the peices to the puzzle
Yeah i heard of making E7 work sometimes hell i had a 125 shot of nitrous working them i was in 12s but my point is, IS it worth it, and the stock intake upper and lower ive heard more over the years saying dont waste your time. If u can make those stock items get u in the 11s without any power adders, i'll pay u to do some portin for me your dam good at it
Turkey Sammich
I can't fap normal. I cracked a rib, then my ankle
- Jul 12, 2006
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The afr's will work fine with your intake. I suggest 165's for a more street based car and 185's for more of a street strip car. The 185's move your power curve up the rpm range from what I have seen. As far as the job itself.....to me it is rather easy. Take the intake off, unbolt your headers, pull the valve cover off, then the head bolts are exposed. Replace all gaskets and tq everything to spec when putting it back on and you should be golden. I'm pretty sure that you may want to go ahead and make timing changes when doing this also.
Do you have to modify your pistons for 185's?I too can't decide on some heads but I have a supercharger so my set up might be a little different.
strtrcr50
New Member
Depends on the cam. I've read that in most cases, yes you have to modify/change the pistons with afr 185's.. From AFR's website:
I am pretty sure any head with 2.02 valves will require you to fly cut the pistons. The 165's have 1.90 valves though. If you will read Thumpers website you will see that big valves are not the be all beat all of a good set of heads though. This is why I am staying stock/ported. No reason for me to have a street car that will go any faster than low 12's on motor. To obtain the 11's I plan on a shot of spray also. I guess I should have mentioned that.
Thumper of Orange Park
Thumper of Orange Park
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