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Popps then Shuts Off again.

  • Thread starter Thread starter robw13
  • Start date Start date Jul 4, 2025
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    distributor module pip tfi
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robw13

10 Year Member
Aug 13, 2013
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Greeneville, Tennessee
Jul 4, 2025
#1
  • Jul 4, 2025
  • #1
My mechanic just got the Ign Module replaced and the car pulled the same crap again.
Going down the road, heard/felt a pop, lost power and engine light. Would crank but no start. After sitting for 10min, fired back up but feels like it's got a miss/fluctuating idle.
Any ideas?

90 mustang gt vert. 5sp 5.0l
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
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#2
  • Jul 4, 2025
  • #2
Fuel pressure?
 

robw13

10 Year Member
Aug 13, 2013
52
5
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Greeneville, Tennessee
Jul 4, 2025
#3
  • Jul 4, 2025
  • #3
Not sure, should have enough. I think it's a something ign related still.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
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#4
  • Jul 4, 2025
  • #4
It should but does it?
I hesitate, you have a mechanic working on this?
 

robw13

10 Year Member
Aug 13, 2013
52
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Greeneville, Tennessee
Jul 5, 2025
#5
  • Jul 5, 2025
  • #5
Yeah, didn't do anything when he had it last.
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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#6
  • Jul 5, 2025
  • #6
Have you checked to see if there are any codes? CEL only illuminates for emissions related codes so other codes can be present and you will not get a CEL.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#7
  • Jul 5, 2025
  • #7
Are you going to work on this issue yourself?
I ask this because when I hung around the 'shop' that my friend had, people came in with 'I googled this and it said to replace this part' or 'my friend told me to have you do this....' keyboard mechanics can be useful to the DYIer, not so much at a repair shop, they should know what to do but sadly not many mechanics know how to diagnose our older cars.
I would check out this thread :

Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs

Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected 5.0 Mustangs model years 1986-1995 A word about this checklist before you start: it is arranged in a specific order to put the most likely failure items first. That will save you time, energy and money. Start at the top of the list and work...
www.stangnet.com
This checklist is useful when the car dies and won't restart so you have to run the checklist when it dies,
There are some quickie things to do when it dies (may be cover in the checklist) a shot of starter fluid will tell you if it's running out of fuel or a no spark condition.
The ignition switches, the electronic switch under the dash on the lower part of the steering column, is known to fail so get out the flashlight to see if it's loose or burnt connections.
Let us know what the plan is.
 
Reactions: Mcmahst

robw13

10 Year Member
Aug 13, 2013
52
5
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Greeneville, Tennessee
Jul 5, 2025
#8
  • Jul 5, 2025
  • #8
Cool beans, I didn't get a chance to cut I was on the hwy when it died. Had it towed. My mechanic is old school thankfully, hates the newer stuff
 
Reactions: General karthief

robw13

10 Year Member
Aug 13, 2013
52
5
19
Greeneville, Tennessee
Jul 9, 2025
#9
  • Jul 9, 2025
  • #9
Update:
Replaced Distributor - Pickup was failing. Gonna replace Coolant Sensors too. Runs fine with Temp Sensor unplugged.
 
Reactions: gkomo

gkomo

now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft
Aug 2, 2024
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#10
  • Jul 9, 2025
  • #10
What distributor did you replace it with?
 

robw13

10 Year Member
Aug 13, 2013
52
5
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Greeneville, Tennessee
Jul 9, 2025
#11
  • Jul 9, 2025
  • #11
Only one close to here was a Duralst Gold, Steel Gear. I'm sure it may not last though
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#12
  • Jul 10, 2025
  • #12
robw13 said:
Only one close to here was a Duralst Gold, Steel Gear. I'm sure it may not last though
Click to expand...
Why will it not last?
 

robw13

10 Year Member
Aug 13, 2013
52
5
19
Greeneville, Tennessee
Jul 10, 2025
#13
  • Jul 10, 2025
  • #13
Idk lol, just overthinking i guess. He said its running better now, but have to replace the Temp Sensors. Says it runs/idles great when the temp sensor is unplugged.
 

robw13

10 Year Member
Aug 13, 2013
52
5
19
Greeneville, Tennessee
Jul 14, 2025
#14
  • Jul 14, 2025
  • #14
Changed Distributor, no change, alot of jerk/popping when driving slow and dies. Will not staying idleing/dies. Scanner also showed both temp sensors faulty. I've changed the ect so far, no change. Waiting on the gauge one though.
What else too check? Possible wires or bad dizzy/Icm? Its running rich too, can smell it alot.
 
Last edited: Jul 14, 2025

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
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#15
  • Jul 14, 2025
  • #15
AeroCoupe said:
Have you checked to see if there are any codes? CEL only illuminates for emissions related codes so other codes can be present and you will not get a CEL.
Click to expand...




If you have temp sensor issues, you should have codes to go with them.
 
Reactions: General karthief

robw13

10 Year Member
Aug 13, 2013
52
5
19
Greeneville, Tennessee
Jul 14, 2025
#16
  • Jul 14, 2025
  • #16
Mechanic checked em, I didn't ask of course lol.
 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
Admin Dude
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#17
  • Jul 14, 2025
  • #17
Buy yourself an OBD1 code reader and a multi-meter and get back to us...


or have your mechanic join Stangnet.


In seriousness, there is no way for us to help you over the internet if we don't have information. At this point, I would leave it in the hands of your mechanic to solve.

View: https://youtube.com/shorts/byg8jtZ4vOU?feature=shared
 

robw13

10 Year Member
Aug 13, 2013
52
5
19
Greeneville, Tennessee
Jul 14, 2025
#18
  • Jul 14, 2025
  • #18
Agreed, I got one coming, will update after learning codes and what not.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
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Jul 15, 2025
#19
  • Jul 15, 2025
  • #19
The temp sender will have no effect on how the engine runs, it only works the gauge, the engine temp sensor (notice the word change?) that mounts in the heater tube talks to the computer. They rarely go bad but it does happen. Wiring would be suspect if you get a code for a ECT fault.
Your mechanic knows this. Now you do too.
 

robw13

10 Year Member
Aug 13, 2013
52
5
19
Greeneville, Tennessee
Jul 17, 2025
#20
  • Jul 17, 2025
  • #20
Changed both sensors & dizzy, idles little better but the rpms will drop now and then. Haven't driven it yet. Only codes on 1st test is 10,11,18.

The main issue that started this mess is it suddenly lose power/stall going down the road and would have to wait 5-10min to fire back up. Would just crank over.
 
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