Running To Cool?

i just installed an autometer sport comp mechanical coolant gauge in my car. I bought the gauge used to the only fitting i had was 1/2". So to get it to fit the intake i had to put a threaded pipe in the intake screw on a 1/2"-3/8" reducer then the probe on top of that...so the fittings stick ~1-2" off the top of the intake. Do you think this is affecting the readings? if so where can ibuy the correct fitting for my gauge.

in town it seems fine normally ~160-185/190ish...but if i get on the high way and cruise for a while it'll drop to 140 and sometimes down to 120 and not move until i get on it hard and it'll pop up to about 140 again...

The stock gauge always stayed btw 1/4 and 1/2
 
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I'm thinking that the probe should be inside the intake for a proper reading. when cruising down the road you are going to have air blowing on the 1-2" fitting causing a false reading. I would buy the right fitting and be done with it.
 
I have manual autometer sport/comp's. I was pissed when I thought the right fitting was not included. There was one that almost fit, it screwed in but the threads were loose. After some cussing, I looked in the bottom of the box, and there was the right one, go figure. It should have come with the guage. And I agree also, thats not good enough, it needs to be in the coolant.
 
The t-fitting is not a good plan. There is a port on the rear of your intake if you want to keep the stock one working too. All you need is a 1/2" drive socket upside down. Drop it on the square plug and you will be able to get an extension half way into the wrong side of the socket and take it out. Once you see it, this will make sense. Look on the drivers side rear of the lower intake.
 
Peg8687 said:
what about people that use T fittings to keep the stock gauge working...isn't this the same concept?

Regradsless i ordered the correct fitting it'll be here friday
I have mine hooked up so I can use both gauges. I have the stock one in the port its suposed to be in and the autometer gauge is in my ford racing thermostat housing that has an opening for it.:nice:
 
Not really, it should run at what the stat. is rated at, otherwise the cooling system is not up to the task or the stat. is not right. You can boil your stat, as M. Yount stated and check the temp with a thermometer. Mr. Gasket stats are supposed to be some of the best, for about $10.

What other cooling system mods do you have? Are you going to run a/c?
 
It's probably fine - and good that it's reading the way it is. If T'stats and sending units are within 5F of their ratings, you're doing good. I measured 3 t'stats that I've been using with a calibrated thermometer on the stove in heated coolant. My 170F t'stat began opening at 165F and was fully open by 170F. My 180F t'stat began opening at 183F and was fully open at 187F. My 192F t'stat began opening at 189F and was fully open by 193F. My 210F on/ 195F off temp. switch closed at 208F, and opened at 198F. I'd leave it just the way it is.
 
jerry beach said:
Not really, it should run at what the stat. is rated at, otherwise the cooling system is not up to the task or the stat. is not right. You can boil your stat, as M. Yount stated and check the temp with a thermometer. Mr. Gasket stats are supposed to be some of the best, for about $10.

What other cooling system mods do you have? Are you going to run a/c?

New WP, 3 row radiator, and elec fan.

190 isnt really a high temp from what i read/hear so i think i'll just leave it and go with...if it aint broke dont fix it :D