Progress Thread Seriously? Another Boosted Coyote Swap Build? - Still Slowly Moving Forward

tannerc91gt · Oct 25, 2017

Subscribed. Keep up the good work. Looking forward to watching this build

Hoytster · Oct 26, 2017

madmike1157 said:
I made my own version of those SF connectors. Only I made mine to attach to the bottoms of the standard sub frames like all normal connectors do, then ran the outriggers to a 1" square bar welded to the floor along the rocker pinch weld. I'm confident that they are far stronger than any single bar connector, regardless of whether or not it was through the floor.

That sounds almost exactly what I plan on doing, except combined with the through the floors of course. I'm thinking that 1" square tubing on the outer edge of the rocker pinch weld should create a nice jacking area also. I'm thinking of welding in a couple plates on each end and in the middle to give multiple spots to put a jack. Would be nice at the track for changing tires and checking the undercarriage out.

I agree with you, tying the structure together like that with the rocker panels and sub frames should be much stronger than a single bar connector. From my understanding and experience, the rocker panels on a fox are fairly strong and tying the floor plan together with the sub frames creates both more vertical and a ton more lateral stability in the chassis where fox chassis are their weakest.

Hoytster · Oct 26, 2017

So I've taken notice to how many parts I have laying around and the fact I'm running out of storage room makes me want to see if I can sell what I'm not going to use. I've never been much into buying/selling stock used parts so I'm not sure if there is much or any value in what I will be getting rid of. Is there a market for used stock parts and is it work trying to sell? Some examples of what I am thinking of selling are:

Stock block, stock rotating assembly, valve covers, all original engine accessories, a9l computer, stock engine harnesses, 30lb injectors, fuel rail, stock fuel lines, front fenders, original exhaust/mufflers, ect ect.

General karthief · Oct 26, 2017

Yes and no

bird_dog0347 · Oct 26, 2017

The A9L will likely bring $250-$300 on it's own and you can usually get about $75-$150 for the injectors depending on condition.

FoxMustangLvr · Oct 26, 2017

The accessories will sell too along with the brackets and hardware too. Lots of people have interest in going back to stock.

Hoytster · Oct 27, 2017

Thanks guys, looks like i will just list what i have for sale and see what happens. As long as there is some possible interest i'd rather see it go to someone that can use it then get trashed.

02 281 GT · Oct 27, 2017

Hoytster said:
Thanks guys, looks like i will just list what i have for sale and see what happens. As long as there is some possible interest i'd rather see it go to someone that can use it then get trashed.

You said it had pretty much every GT40 bolt-on that was available? Did it also have GT40 heads? I looked at the last couple of pages and it wasn't immediately clear what the heads were if not stock.

Hoytster · Oct 30, 2017

02 281 GT said:
You said it had pretty much every GT40 bolt-on that was available? Did it also have GT40 heads? I looked at the last couple of pages and it wasn't immediately clear what the heads were if not stock.

Sorry for the delay, been busy last couple days. Yeah, it had GT40 three bar heads on it when I got it. Those are currently on my buddies 5.0 swapped e36 M3 that he's working on and I believe he is keeping those heads. He has my upper and lower intake as well to get it running, but he's not keeping those. The tubular upper and lower with the mustang plate is one thing I'm still not sure if I want to sell yet, that has some nostalgia value to me.

02 281 GT · Oct 30, 2017

Hoytster said:
Sorry for the delay, been busy last couple days. Yeah, it had GT40 three bar heads on it when I got it. Those are currently on my buddies 5.0 swapped e36 M3 that he's working on and I believe he is keeping those heads. He has my upper and lower intake as well to get it running, but he's not keeping those. The tubular upper and lower with the mustang plate is one thing I'm still not sure if I want to sell yet, that has some nostalgia value to me.

Cool. I've been wanting to get a set of the three bar heads for my Grand Marquis. I would just get the Ps, but the FMS headers are impossible to find since they were discontinued.

Hoytster · Dec 2, 2017

It's been over a month since my last post because work has been crazy busy, but I figure I better give some updates. I've been stitch welding the front half of the chassis most of November but decided to switch gears last week and start working on the subframes. Stich welding gets boring after, oh, an hour, so this will give me a little of a break from that before I get back at it. Lets just say my beer intake has increase with this stitch welding since I have to keep it interesting somehow... Plus, I want to get the main rails of the subframe done so I can get the weight off the suspension. This way I can completely remove the rear and front k-member to keep stich welding some critical areas. I have a lot of pics to post.

Started stitch welding the passenger side first:

Just quick coated the welds after they were finished and cleaned to keep any rust from starting:

I ground down the welds around the pinch weld of the door so the door seal will fit like stock:

That's all the stitch welding pics I'll post for right now. I have both the passenger side and drivers side done, it's pretty much the same process. Grind and clean like hell, close any gaps between the sheet metal with a hammer, weld, get pissed off because no matter what you do there is always still dirt in the weld and they turn out ty, repeat.

Hoytster · Dec 2, 2017

Started the passenger side subframe connector. Just getting started with cutting the floor and getting my bearings as to where I want the rail to go. This rail is .083 2x3 rectangular steel tube.

I want the main rail to get as deep into the front subframe and rear subframe as possible.

Hoytster · Dec 2, 2017

So at some point during the month I decided to CAD the subframe connector setup I am looking to do. This is just a rough CAD drawing to generally show what I am going to do and what pieces will be needed. I plan on updating this as I go with the actual dimensions of how I cut and welded everything , just to keep track of what I did. I'm anal like this.

Here is the front of the main rail that I profiled and boxed in to fit up into the front subframe.

I slipped with the plasma cutter a little and kind of boogered up the rail here. No biggie, after I hammer that piece hard against the new subframe and weld it, you'll never know.

Finishing up the front of the subframe. Added some support here so the tab I had to bend up and out of the way can be bent back and welding in.

Hoytster · Dec 2, 2017

Got my LMR panels and my Scott Rod panels. Both of these purchases look to be well worth it. The LMR panels will need a little trimming to fit but look great, and the Scott Rod panels are well designed, cut, and profiled to fit real nice.

Hoytster · Dec 2, 2017

So I had wanted to make the subframe connector out of one solid 2x3 piece but quickly discovered that was not possible with what I wanted to do. So I decided to make the main subframe rail out of two pieces and join them together with a 10 gauge plate at the rear seat bulkhead area. I had planned on plating the subframe to the rear seat bulkhead anyhow, so this ended up working out great. I had to cut, weld, hammer, and bend the rear subframe rail to fit since the rear subframe opening is not perfectly straight, tapers in at the bottom, and I had to keep access to the rear lower control arm bolt. I want the rear subframe rail to go in as far as possible because I plan on tying the torque box reinforcement into it.

Here's how it fits in the rear subframe.

Here is the plate I am talking about. In this pic I already have it welded to the rear subframe rail. I will weld this to the rear seat bulkhead once everything is fitting 100% and everything is ready to weld. I was able to keep it proportioned where I can remove the rear subframe rail and the plate together as an assembly. Then I will just fit the main rail to the plate and weld away.

That's all for now. I'm going to keep working on the subframe connectors and get those done. Hopefully I can get that done by the end of the month and then keep working on the stich welding.

Mustang5L5 · Dec 3, 2017

Very nice work. Thanks for sharing details and pics

TOOLOW91 · Dec 3, 2017

Awesome work !! Through the floors are the way to go .

Hoytster · Dec 4, 2017

Thanks for the comments, this is the first time doing through the floors and I definitely agree its the way to go. I'm trying to do this right.

So has anyone used this weld through primer called "Bloxide"? I did some research and a lot of people recommended it, so I picked up a can. It's a little expensive but hopefully it works well.

revhead347 · Dec 4, 2017

Hoytster said:
Thanks for the comments, this is the first time doing through the floors and I definitely agree its the way to go. I'm trying to do this right.

So has anyone used this weld through primer called "Bloxide"? I did some research and a lot of people recommended it, so I picked up a can. It's a little expensive but hopefully it works well.

I use the Duplicolor weld through. It's about $8/can at Summit. Works fine.

Kurt

Davedacarpainter · Dec 4, 2017

This has been pretty interesting.

What are your plans for the lower torque box? I've been considering Wild Rides torque boxes on my ugly little car.
https://wildridesracecars.com/shop/ford/new-lower-s-box-adjustable-lower-torque-box-replacement-kit/
I don't know if I need them like you might with your racing plans, but I kind of want them.

Progress Thread Seriously? Another Boosted Coyote Swap Build? - Still Slowly Moving Forward

This last 25% is foreign territory at this point

I don't dare do that to my Knob

I don't dare do that to my Knob

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

still married haven't seen testicles in years

I love my Pimp

I don't dare do that to my Knob

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs

I don't dare do that to my Knob

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs

I don't dare do that to my Knob

I don't dare do that to my Knob

I don't dare do that to my Knob

I don't dare do that to my Knob

I don't dare do that to my Knob

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?

I don't dare do that to my Knob

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...

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