Progress Thread Seriously? Another Boosted Coyote Swap Build? - Still Slowly Moving Forward

[revhead347]

It would still be an 8-9 second class. When a factory ride can run in the 11's or quicker bone stock at weight, then it is not hard to imagine a lightened, modified Mustang/Vette/Camaro ect from showing up and dropping an 8 on the board. I know it has happened already. It will ultimately be about who has the deepest pockets....I know, I race with those guys. Lol But I am not in it to win, I enjoy the competition, even if I am the slowest out there. There are some real cool rides and even cooler people. I go to have fun, and that is what it should be about.

I am sure it would be that fast. But at least you wouldn't be dedicating $150k to build a race car to the limitation in every aspect of only one specific class. There are some of race classes that are so specific, you can't run in your car in anything else. You sure couldn't drive it on the street.

Kurt

 

[Hoytster]

Happy New Years everyone! Hope everyone had an enjoyable and safe holiday.
.
So this happened on Saturday...

Found a good condition 03' cobra IRS with a full, unused Maximum Motorsports street IRS grip kit, all installation tools, diff cover brace, and fully rebuild differential with 4.10 gears. Guy gave me a killer deal on everything. I'm not sure if I am going to keep the 4.10 gears, but it's nice having everything else freshened up in the rear already.

The only downside to all this, was this happened on the way out to pick all this up.

An 11+ car pileup on the PA turnpike around a blind corner. I was toward the front of all this but was able to maneuver my way out of the mess before the additional cars and tractor trailers came slamming into the pile. Fortunately no one was seriously injured. That red vehicle in the back (Rav4) is who hit me, and he hit me a good 50+ yards behind where he is sitting now. So that shows you how far he was pushed by the trucks and other vehicles. I was the only person that actually was able to stop and not hit anybody, I just got hit hard form behind.

His vehicle:

My truck:

Officer had to ask if I had any damage. It's hard to see, but rear bumper is pushed in, there is a crease below the lettering at the bottom of the tailgate, and my Class IV hitch is buckled to the right of the receiver. Obviously he hit hard enough to buckle that hitch which isn't easy. It was a good hit. Be safe out there people and slow down when it snows. This could have been prevented/reduced had people not being driving like idiots.

 

[Hoytster]

On a lighter note, I finished up my main subframe connector rails and outriggers yesterday. I still have PLENTY of work to do to finish up the matrix bracing and all the other fabrication work to be done (rollbar, torque boxes, continue stich welding, ect, ect) but with all this done, I feel comfortable taking the weight off the suspension and removing the rest of the front suspension/k-member and the rear axle without risk of torqueing the unibody.

These pictures just show the undercarriage and the notching on the outriggers for the 1x1 square tubing that will be welded down the entire pitch weld area. This will all get prettied up when I strip the entire chassis. I'll box the outriggers in once I get the 1x1 rail welded in also.

Driver side rear fitted rail top and front pictures to show the offset that is there between the front subframe rail and rear subframe rail. This is if you fit the front subframe reinforcement rail inside or through the existing front subframe. I had to beat the hell out of the rear subframe rail to even get my fitted 2x3 rail to fit in, the stock subframe really tapers in toward the bottom.. I could have cut the rear frame rail more to get things to fit better but I'm trying to make everything fit within the stock locations as best as possible. I could have also not followed the front frame rail but I did it for the same reason.

 

[Davedacarpainter]

Some very pretty welding there.

Glad your truck is relatively ok. What a mess.

 

[Hoytster]

Some very pretty welding there.

Glad your truck is relatively ok. What a mess.

Thanks man, I'm no pro but I try to do my best. I have to start brushing up on my TIG skills for the roll bar.

I was glad I was able to drive away. They had the road closed down for 5+ hours to get that all cleaned up and most of those peoples car were totaled.

 

[mikestang63]

Thanks man, I'm no pro but I try to do my best. I have to start brushing up on my TIG skills for the roll bar.

I was glad I was able to drive away. They had the road closed down for 5+ hours to get that all cleaned up and most of those peoples car were totaled.

Glad you are ok. Very nice work there.
I would recommend you get checked out by a doctor.
Rear end collisions have a way of causing all kinds of crap that you don't feel until a day or two after.

 

[Hoytster]

Glad you are ok. Very nice work there.
I would recommend you get checked out by a doctor.
Rear end collisions have a way of causing all kinds of crap that you don't feel until a day or two after.

Thanks for the recommendation, I went ahead and made an appointment on Saturday as soon as I got home. I already have 3 fused disks and half another removed from a previous motorsports accident, can't afford to hurt much damage!

 

[revhead347]

Glad you and everyone else was ok. Getting in an accident definitely ruins your day. Sweet catch with all the IRS stuff.

Kurt

 

[90sickfox]

HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!

That pile up looks rediculous . Glad you made it out OK.

That IRS is a good catch. Once you go IRS you'll never go back. They're awesome on the street. The only limitation is tire size and ofset.

I'm sure you know this already....

You'll need the flange from your 8.8 to replace the one on the IRS so the driveshaft will bolt up.

Another thing....I shortened my aluminum driveshaft about 3/4 inch. I've noticed that in some installs the output shaft seal on the trans just about rides at the end of the slip yoke. I've found this to cause vibration issues and banging. Under power the trans and rear move around a bit still. I trimmed mine so the seal rode in the same spot as it did with the SLA. No wheel hop, vibrations, or clunking. I've done the swap on quite a few cars....some need it shortened, some don't.

Are you planning on going wider with the body ? If not check out cobra hard tail conversions....if you haven't already. That's one of the things on my bucket list.

Wish I could reshape the inner and outter wheel tubs to fit some big ole tires back there with the IRS. Almost like tubing it but not notching the rear frame rails....just to get the curve out of the wheel wells.

 

[Hoytster]

HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!

That pile up looks rediculous . Glad you made it out OK.

That IRS is a good catch. Once you go IRS you'll never go back. They're awesome on the street. The only limitation is tire size and ofset.

I'm sure you know this already....

You'll need the flange from your 8.8 to replace the one on the IRS so the driveshaft will bolt up.

Another thing....I shortened my aluminum driveshaft about 3/4 inch. I've noticed that in some installs the output shaft seal on the trans just about rides at the end of the slip yoke. I've found this to cause vibration issues and banging. Under power the trans and rear move around a bit still. I trimmed mine so the seal rode in the same spot as it did with the SLA. No wheel hop, vibrations, or clunking. I've done the swap on quite a few cars....some need it shortened, some don't.

Are you planning on going wider with the body ? If not check out cobra hard tail conversions....if you haven't already. That's one of the things on my bucket list.

Wish I could reshape the inner and outter wheel tubs to fit some big ole tires back there with the IRS. Almost like tubing it but not notching the rear frame rails....just to get the curve out of the wheel wells.

Yeah, that was definitely a butt-puckering kind of accident. I can cross that one off my bucket list.....


Good to hear you supporting the IRS, because I have a lot of my die hard mustang buddies ragging on me about it. They just can't seem to understand why I want to go IRS. Most of my buddies are die-hard drag racing fans so I guess I can empathize. I got it because of the street manners and because I plan on open tracking this car a couple times a year. I know there isn't much difference in ultimate traction on a smooth surface between an IRS and a SRA with a watts link and TA, but good luck trying to find a truly smooth track in my area. Plus, I'm a little aggressive in the corners and like to use curbing as much as possible, something a SRA doesn't tend like. My old 95' cobra that I did some NASA and club racing with hated the way I'd use the curbs, it would get unsettled quick. I have an 1989 BMW325is (E30) that is built for LeMons and Chump car currently and I love how stable and predictable that chassis is. I can throw that car around without too much worry of over steer or unpredictable handling.

A Maier racing 2" widebody kit is in the plans for both the front and rear. From what I've researched, I should be able to easily fit a 10-10.5" wide wheel with a 305 with this setup. The main issue will be find a wheel with the correct offset to make this possible, but I have time to do my research. I had thought about mini-tubing possibly, but don't think I will need to with the wide body. I gotta have some wide meats back there one way or another!

Thanks for the heads up on the differential flange, I did know this but only found out about a week ago while I was doing my research before buying an IRS unit. Since this car is getting a coyote swap with a planned built TR-3650 trans, I was planning on having a custom driveshaft made just for the reason you described. I'm assuming with a custom shaft that I will be able to have the correct end put on the driveshaft to bolt up to the IRS 8.8? Unless I'm missing something....

 

[bird_dog0347]

Glad you're ok, and you'll love the IRS as I do love mine as long as you pick the right springs and dampers (I went Koni C/O from MM all around). Since you'll have the flairs and aftermarket K member (I'm assuming MM?) you should talk to Jack at MM to get the details on what wheels you'll need and just get custom ones from the beginning as you'll have a difficult time I'm betting finding the proper ones off the shelf. You might want to check out Matt Farah's coupe on his youtube videos as it sounds like what you're going for (other than coyote).

 

[Hoytster]

Glad you're ok, and you'll love the IRS as I do love mine as long as you pick the right springs and dampers (I went Koni C/O from MM all around). Since you'll have the flairs and aftermarket K member (I'm assuming MM?) you should talk to Jack at MM to get the details on what wheels you'll need and just get custom ones from the beginning as you'll have a difficult time I'm betting finding the proper ones off the shelf. You might want to check out Matt Farah's coupe on his youtube videos as it sounds like what you're going for (other than coyote).

Yep, you are correct. I'm sticking with MM on most if not all of that stuff. I'm a firm believer in sticking with one manufacturer for suspension components so everything works as a system. Sounds like my plan is a lot like what you have on your car.

I was wondering if I might need to look at custom wheels with this whole setup. I haven't really got a chance to look at all the details yet since I moved on this IRS thing pretty quickly. I really appreciate the suggestions, this IRS is new territory for me.

Ah yes, Matt Farah. So, I have been planning on building this car for about 5-6 years based on what I have wanted to do for about 15 years. I knew it was going to take some money and I didn't want to be limited by that. And then Matt comes out with a car that almost carbon copies what I wanted to do a year or two ago. Oh well, it isn't going to change what I wanted to do and honestly, this being a fox body, I'm sure there are plenty of other people that have done the same exact thing I am. But yes, his car is very similar to where I am heading minus a couple details. But at least I built this car myself I'm not slightly bitter at all.......

 

[bird_dog0347]

Ha, yeah, sounds almost exactly like me! I wanted to build this car 15 years ago but didn't have any money... And agreed on the "built not bought" aspect.

As for the wheels there are some options and I got lucky with the ones I found but do have to run a spacer on the front as they are 8" wide and too much offset but the rears were perfect +45 offset and 18x9. I will eventually get some custom wheels done for 18x9 all around with proper offsets and just not rotate them.

 

[Hoytster]

So has anybody fabbed up their own rear IRS mount brackets? That's the one part I don't have yet to test fit the IRS subframe and I'm a little taken back by how much people want for two pieces of metal that I'm going to end up reinforcing and welding on anyways. They don't look very hard to make, just not sure if there is something I am missing.

Also, anyone every re-inforce their IRS subframe? I was looking at some of the mounting tabs for the control arms and such and my engineering mind is telling me some of these areas could be reinforced to control flexing on the track. I found one thread on another forum where a person did reinforce the subframe, but he went a little overkill IMO. I'm just looking at finish welding the factory joints and triangulating mounting tabs/ect.

 

[Noobz347]

So has anybody fabbed up their own rear IRS mount brackets? That's the one part I don't have yet to test fit the IRS subframe and I'm a little taken back by how much people want for two pieces of metal that I'm going to end up reinforcing and welding on anyways. They don't look very hard to make, just not sure if there is something I am missing.

Also, anyone every re-inforce their IRS subframe? I was looking at some of the mounting tabs for the control arms and such and my engineering mind is telling me some of these areas could be reinforced to control flexing on the track. I found one thread on another forum where a person did reinforce the subframe, but he went a little overkill IMO. I'm just looking at finish welding the factory joints and triangulating mounting tabs/ect.

What about something like this?

https://wildridesracecars.com/shop/ford/new-s-box-adjustable-upper-torque-box-replacement-kit/

 

[Noobz347]

also saw this:

https://mustangforums.com/forum/v6-1994-2004-mustangs/581823-solid-rear-axle-to-irs-swap.html

 

[bird_dog0347]

What about something like this?

https://wildridesracecars.com/shop/ford/new-s-box-adjustable-upper-torque-box-replacement-kit/

With the IRS you do not use the upper torque boxes at all, only the lower ones and the frame rails in the rear.

So has anybody fabbed up their own rear IRS mount brackets? That's the one part I don't have yet to test fit the IRS subframe and I'm a little taken back by how much people want for two pieces of metal that I'm going to end up reinforcing and welding on anyways. They don't look very hard to make, just not sure if there is something I am missing.

Also, anyone every re-inforce their IRS subframe? I was looking at some of the mounting tabs for the control arms and such and my engineering mind is telling me some of these areas could be reinforced to control flexing on the track. I found one thread on another forum where a person did reinforce the subframe, but he went a little overkill IMO. I'm just looking at finish welding the factory joints and triangulating mounting tabs/ect.

If you're missing the brackets for the rear you can do the "hard tail" conversion. I'm pretty sure Kenny Brown offers it as a modification.

http://forums.corral.net/forums/gen...ox-independent-rear-suspension-project-5.html

 

[Hoytster]

With the IRS you do not use the upper torque boxes at all, only the lower ones and the frame rails in the rear.



If you're missing the brackets for the rear you can do the "hard tail" conversion. I'm pretty sure Kenny Brown offers it as a modification.

http://forums.corral.net/forums/gen...ox-independent-rear-suspension-project-5.html

Well will you look at that.....







Those pictures are from @FoxMustangLvr progress thread. There is some obvious benefits to that as it removes another set of bushings from the mounts and seems like a much more solid connection. Wonder if there are any downsides....

 

[bird_dog0347]

Well will you look at that.....







Those pictures are from @FoxMustangLvr progress thread. There is some obvious benefits to that as it removes another set of bushings from the mounts and seems like a much more solid connection. Wonder if there are any downsides....

Cost... Pretty sure it's not exactly cheap, or at least it'll be more than the cost of the brackets and bushings. Another upside is that it should free up some room for wider tires in the rear, not sure exactly how much but some for sure.

 

[Hoytster]

Cost... Pretty sure it's not exactly cheap, or at least it'll be more than the cost of the brackets and bushings. Another upside is that it should free up some room for wider tires in the rear, not sure exactly how much but some for sure.

I haven't been able to locate that setup from anyone yet, I might have to contact KB or FTBR directly to see if they have anything that's not listed. And honestly, that doesn't look bad at all to fab up. The biggest thing I can initially see would be locating the cradle correctly. Left and right should be no problem, it's the distance off the frame rail I would have a question on. If I had a stock bracket that would take the guess work out of it, but then I probably wouldn't be looking at doing this....