Oh I agree with you Kurt, but.........those full boxes sure are nice........I'll probably still replace mine for no other reason than "cause"
I'm really starting to wonder about you Dave....
Why not just put a narrowed Fab 9 under there and run 36" long ladder bars?
You can reinforce the existing torque boxes numerous ways for all but the most extreme of duties. Battle boxes, the UPR reinforcements, ( or any of a half dozen copies of that) or your own home made weld-n-plate will work for everything else.
Multi-mount point torque box replacements are for drag radial racers like @TOOLOW91, @84Ttop, @Bullitt347.
You know,..the "hobby" wherein you spend stupid amounts of money to make obscene horsepower,..spending all week long waiting on the weekend just so you can beat on the mega power car and see what breaks.
Or,..
See how hard you can ram the whole car into the center wall at the 60' mark when the "stage 2" boost solenoid opens, and holds the waste gate closed to allow the engine to see 35 psi.
If you build the car the "right way" you don't have these problems. just finished the 3rd season on the car and have not broken a single thing. And this at the 1,200 HP level. Do a yearly oil change, adjust the valves at the beginning of every season, throw a half dozen sets of spark plugs at it every year, new slicks once a year and that is about the extent of it.
I've found that with my tig welder things take 20x longer to complete.
Convert it to gas!! Fortunately my Lincoln 140 flux welder already had the solenoid valve in it to convert it to gas. I changed the wire and the polarity, added the tank along with the gauges and now my welds look pretty decent.
Yes but... Your build doesn't involve a power plant that runs on motor oil and protoculture from the land down under using a reverse pitch dark Australian gem stone found only the mouths of active volcanoes.
It used to be..Back in the 90's I drove the car through the gate...picked on Chevy boy's, ran 11oh's, and drove it back out the gate at the end of the night. For me, all it took to do that was a JY 460, a C-4, and a buttload of nitrous. It was all cheap fun.
Then street cars started running 10, 9 and even faster 8 second et's. It took way more money, and you broke more sht just to play in the sand box. And HU classes started to appear.
The 393 powered jap car in my sig went 8.80's. it was the slowest car in the field in 2003, I broke the 351 block trying to lean the thing out for more power...( pic is of me discovering aluminum all over my plugs)
THAT was NOT fun.
Because I never learn the first time, in '06 I backed that car up with the meth fueled orange/black 86 w/95mm 363.
Car ran 5.20's/8.10's, and was still the slowest car in the NEW field. ( rule change over winter when I was building allowed 600+" and only penalized 200 lbs extra weight) Because of meth fuel, had to wear -20. ( like snowmobile suit)b
Track temps 140+......Meth tuning learning curve resulted in two sets of trashed TFS R heads..and even when everything was working, the cars going like 160 mph.....
(This is after Melted head #2)
Nope....for me... Fun is the current car..Running on "proto culture, and motor oil".
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26 X 8.5 guys are running 4.6-4.7 at over 150 mph in the 1/8 now. It is getting ridiculous ...lol Try keeping up with that sh*t! Then there is the 10.5 crowd. Try low 4.0's and 3.9xx in the 1/8. It is stupid money to get there.
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It would still be an 8-9 second class. When a factory ride can run in the 11's or quicker bone stock at weight, then it is not hard to imagine a lightened, modified Mustang/Vette/Camaro ect from showing up and dropping an 8 on the board. I know it has happened already. It will ultimately be about who has the deepest pockets....I know, I race with those guys. Lol But I am not in it to win, I enjoy the competition, even if I am the slowest out there. There are some real cool rides and even cooler people. I go to have fun, and that is what it should be about.
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