Squiking noise and EXEDY FMK1026 Clutch

[Backer44]

Servus

My Car makes a squiking noise after 1min of driving and only for 5min. The noise sounds like a Belt thet slips, but all Belts and Beltdriven part are fine. My Mechanik says, it could be the throwout barring. The noise only comes while driving it. Even on the lift and the car running in gear it doesnt appear.

If it´s the Clutch:
Does anyone know´s or heard something about the EXEDY FMK1026 Clutchkit from RockAuto.com ? Is it better or even worse then the OEM Clutch?

 

[08GT500]

Hi,
I’d not be concerned with it as it’s occurring within the break in period, how many miles on the clutch since install?
Squealing continues as your shifting and utilizing the clutch, and while you’re driving?
I’ll look up that part # and see which specific Exedy clutch it is.
-John

 

[Backer44]

Hey John

The Clutch is as far i know the factory one and has now nearly 50,000 Miles done and seems fine. Nothing changes when pressing the clutch or change in a higher or lower gear. I had a faulty throw out barring on my 98 Integra Type R and that one behaved different. (Changing tone if the clutchpedal is pressed and a mild vibration in the Pedal.)

Personaly, i dont´t think it has anything to do with the clutch. It sound´s more like Rubber that slips or get draged.
I´ve got the Tip from the german Forum that it could be the Driveshaft center Barring (sorry, i dont know the english term for it ^^ ) my Mechanik want to take a look at it.
But the Clutch thing is still interesting for me

 

[08GT500]

Hey John

The Clutch is as far i know the factory one and has now nearly 50,000 Miles done and seems fine. Nothing changes when pressing the clutch or change in a higher or lower gear. I had a faulty throw out barring on my 98 Integra Type R and that one behaved different. (Changing tone if the clutchpedal is pressed and a mild vibration in the Pedal.)

Personaly, i dont´t think it has anything to do with the clutch. It sound´s more like Rubber that slips or get draged.
I´ve got the Tip from the german Forum that it could be the Driveshaft center Barring (sorry, i dont know the english term for it ^^ ) my Mechanik want to take a look at it.
But the Clutch thing is still interesting for me

Hi,
Ok, so this isn’t a fresh install.. Clutch is equivalent to OE, little more holding power..only difference being the kit uses a CSC hydraulic throwout bearing, Pilot bearing.
If driving, pop it out of gear & coast, foot off clutch pedal.. the sound increase/decrease with faster/slower vehicle speed? Or related more to engine speed?
Nothing will transmit to the pedal due to the hydraulic throwout bearing being isolated from the pedal, see pic below.
No worries, language barrier... think “Driveshaft bearing”...in English, you may be speaking of the “Countershaft bearing”(?).
Actuation method’s utilized from 05’+ Ford Mustangs vs. Honda/Acura’s in 98’, pic below..
(Type R-series “B” Trans can adopt the same type).
05’s+ Ford’s use the upgraded hydraulic TOB, solid design, yields a light pedal effort, hard to feel what’s occurring.
Quick A.M. TOB pic...

Used to mod. USDM/JDM Honda/Acura CPU’s, still have many parts. Need something PM me!
Good luck!
-John

 

[Backer44]

Thanks John

Hmm too bad, i hoped that this clutch is better (besides the throw out bearing) then the oem clutch.

My car is still at the shop until my warrenty pays the Bill, but i will test it out if they didn´t find the problem. I think it increase/decrease with engin speed but i´m not sure. My car is now 4 weeks at the shop and my memories are fading..
Ah ok, that makes sense, that it will be no feeling in the pedal, but can the throw out bearing sound like slipping rubber if it´s shot?

Hehe yeah my understanding is better then my writing. My accent is also very Schwarzenegger like
I meant the Drive Shaft carrier ( where the drive shaft is bolted to the chassy between the tranny and the diff). To my worries it seems that Ford doesn´t sell it as a service part and only as a complete unit ?!

Thanks, but my Type R is gone. I tradet it for my Mustang.
Bevor i get beat to death :
The Mustang is a litle bit rarer and special that the Honda here in Germany, and they get not as high on prices like in the US.
My Type R had 80.000 miles, no rust, one preowner and still got only 11.000 € for it where the Mustang cost 22000€ and i got it to very good condetionen. It is also the better daily driver than the Honda (had no aircon in it...) and rear wheel drive with a V8 was hard to beat for me. V8´s are less commen here...

 

[08GT500]

Hi,
Well, I’d said “equivalent with more holding power” regarding the clutch, so- it is stronger than the stock Clutch.
Yes, a Throwout bearing ‘TOB’, being a permanently sealed, thrust & roller type bearing packed with grease for a lifetime may certainly make a high pitched squeal if on its way to failure. May be something more simple- either way, I’d certainly not get off their back until everything’s as it should be.
TOB’s generally fail early if adjusted improperly, are out of alignment with the clutch fingers on the pressure plate, or were not the best brand. If correctly installed, TOB’s almost always outlive the Clutch.
Factory or original equipment Ford parts are some of the best out there, if down the road you ever have a sensor fail, or ignition component... buy factory parts, they have proven over many years the most accurate & least likely to fail.
The angular contact bearings for the Carrier Ass’y are Countershaft bearings, so we’re saying the same thing, lol! You’ll be able to get the components to rebuild them, if it’s
Same thing here regarding Car Mfg’s. Honda/Acura’s are looked at as less from many V-8 fanatics..
Here, we’re proud of the Mustang’s American roots, the memories of Mustang generations passing from one to the next- ....like building a car with your dad, going to car shows as a kid, those memories never fade.
On the same token, if a guy or gal takes any car & spends time making it into something to be proud of, that’s also highly respected. Craftsmanship!
Yeah, I did know V-8’s are less common there. Nothing sounds better that a V-8 with the right exhaust, Ford motors always had their own throaty drone, you know when a Mustang’s coming. Unique.
How are the emission laws there? Police look for reasons to ticket you? Depending on where you live, modifying a late model car here can become a nightmare. California’s the most strict, an Inspection & they are checking block & head ID numbers, emission system tampering is a Federal level offense, that can get you fined thousands of $$, your car impounded.
Don’t worry, they’ll have your car back to you soon, know that sucks! At least it’ll be right when you get it back-right?
I’ve a few cars, I like the S197’s, my GT, & GT500, pics...

 

[Backer44]

Man, you have some realy nice rides on your driveway

The thing is, i have from time to time the infamouse 3rd gear look out. I have already installed a Gen 2 MGW Racespec shifter ( the preowner installt the Gen1 with a Blowfish braket and other mods to fight the problem) but after seeing Alejandro Flores, i think that the stock clutch is the problem. But if the exedy is stronge it may fix the problem. He recommended the Mantic Clutch.

Hmm sound realy more like the TOB.
Not realy, the Car is for warrenty work there, (faulty Waterpump) so only the specific warrenty stuff was sorted. He is so nice and take a look at some parts where he think the problem is, until the payout. I will fix it myself then.

Nothing is better then wrenching on the own or buddys Car. I agree to 110% with you. I hate to have the car in unknown hands and not seeing what is done to it. If the warrenty wouldn´t be there, i would fix the waterpump myself, it seems farily easy on the Mustang.

The V8 itself has not the biggest following here, its more the "only German Cars are real Cars" duchbags who looking down on imports. Especially Audi driver´s are the loudest on that topic. Must have somthing to do that these cars looking and drive dead boring....
Myself like older BMW´s e34/e39 (worked for 3 years at BMW) but i have a kink for unusual Cars. So German cars are more on the bottom of my wishlist.

Ohh yes, we have the hated TÜV organisation. Nothing can be legaly changed on your Car without getting a TÜV certifiede part or being ther to get it look over by a TÜV engineer if you changed something. Emission is a no go, throwing out the Cat´s is impossible. Also loud exaust is regulatet. Police cought up in the last years with special trained units who have complete knowledge about tuning...
American Cars have the "bad guy" image here and that they are cheply made and fuelburner. But between US Cardriver is no rivaly. You get from all sorts of us Cars a thump up while driving. It doesnt matter if its a Doge Chevy or Ford. Youre part of a realy chilled to the bone comunity here. That is the best thing about driving a real US Car Never saw that on JDM´s or Domestic´s sadly....

 

[Backer44]

Update, if someone is interestet:

-Installed the exedy Clutch Kit
-Detached the Driveshaft and checked the U-Joints and Centerbearing, seems everything fine to me and my colleague.
-Put new Brakepads on the rear and greased the Brakecylinders in the Calliper
-Checked the E-Brake

Still the Noise is there. Run the Car on the Lift up to 4th Gear and no noise was there. Only on the Street while driving and only if the Car is Cold.


Maybe someone will recognize the noise and know´s the answer

Sample i recordet:

 

[08GT500]

Update, if someone is interestet:

-Installed the exedy Clutch Kit
-Detached the Driveshaft and checked the U-Joints and Centerbearing, seems everything fine to me and my colleague.
-Put new Brakepads on the rear and greased the Brakecylinders in the Calliper
-Checked the E-Brake

Still the Noise is there. Run the Car on the Lift up to 4th Gear and no noise was there. Only on the Street while driving and only if the Car is Cold.


Maybe someone will recognize the noise and know´s the answer

Sample i recordet:

Hi again,
Very interested! So, to catch back up, great gave you the Mustang back, I’ll do whatever I can to help, others will likely do the same. You’re not alone.
So, this same squeaking problem persists. Just gathering information at the moment..
Planned on following up with you, apologies, haven’t been on SN as much of late, family matter.
You’ve likely checked many of these, I’m just trying to get a general idea of everything below...
So far, you checked out your Serpentine belt, you removed it, spun all the driven pulleys and checked their alignment, looked for runout and checked that the torsion spring inside the tensioner isn’t binding, EG; low belt tension.
You could also spray a bit of belt dressing on it to see it the noise changes at all, just to rule it out.
The sound file sounds like a belt at first, but then more of a steel on steel sound, do you agree? If the car is warmed up, then you drive it, no issue, does it change when the temperature outside is warm when you cold start and drive it?
First thought was the Pilot, then TOB. But both were just replaced, correct?
Don’t use traction control while you’re breaking in the new clutch.
Can you tell, In general where the noise is coming from, or the loudest? This goes away when warmed up, you’d mentioned.
New components added to the Engine, Suspension, Exhaust?
As it occurs only when there’s a load on the suspension, wheel bearings checked out as OK? As they are more of a rumble sound, generally, just trying to rule out each area as properly functional, move onto the next. Alignment performed, no issues?
Do you have a functional vent purge valve on the rear end?
Driveshaft has been verified as running true and aligned, the driveshaft support bearing assembly you’d mentioned previously, was it removed and inspected?
Pinion angle measurement?
Was any work done to the Trans or rear-end that you’re aware of?, e.g. Rebuild, Gears?
Fluid levels in both the Trans. and rear are ok, no leaks?
Any other driving mode selection been tested to check if the issue remains?
Bought this new- or used-either way, what Warranty coverage remains?
Can you associate when this noise began occurring with any recent work of any kind on the vehicle, or where you were especially hard on it?(Know you don’t beat it), looking for any association, to time of anomaly.
Talk to you soon!
Best!
-John

 

[Backer44]

Hi again,
Very interested! So, to catch back up, great gave you the Mustang back, I’ll do whatever I can to help, others will likely do the same. You’re not alone.
So, this same squeaking problem persists. Just gathering information at the moment..
Planned on following up with you, apologies, haven’t been on SN as much of late, family matter.
You’ve likely checked many of these, I’m just trying to get a general idea of everything below...
So far, you checked out your Serpentine belt, you removed it, spun all the driven pulleys and checked their alignment, looked for runout and checked that the torsion spring inside the tensioner isn’t binding, EG; low belt tension.
You could also spray a bit of belt dressing on it to see it the noise changes at all, just to rule it out.
The sound file sounds like a belt at first, but then more of a steel on steel sound, do you agree? If the car is warmed up, then you drive it, no issue, does it change when the temperature outside is warm when you cold start and drive it?
First thought was the Pilot, then TOB. But both were just replaced, correct?
Don’t use traction control while you’re breaking in the new clutch.
Can you tell, In general where the noise is coming from, or the loudest? This goes away when warmed up, you’d mentioned.
New components added to the Engine, Suspension, Exhaust?
As it occurs only when there’s a load on the suspension, wheel bearings checked out as OK? As they are more of a rumble sound, generally, just trying to rule out each area as properly functional, move onto the next. Alignment performed, no issues?
Do you have a functional vent purge valve on the rear end?
Driveshaft has been verified as running true and aligned, the driveshaft support bearing assembly you’d mentioned previously, was it removed and inspected?
Pinion angle measurement?
Was any work done to the Trans or rear-end that you’re aware of?, e.g. Rebuild, Gears?
Fluid levels in both the Trans. and rear are ok, no leaks?
Any other driving mode selection been tested to check if the issue remains?
Bought this new- or used-either way, what Warranty coverage remains?
Can you associate when this noise began occurring with any recent work of any kind on the vehicle, or where you were especially hard on it?(Know you don’t beat it), looking for any association, to time of anomaly.
Talk to you soon!
Best!
-John

Hi John

Dont worry, family goes over everything else. especially now.

I try to give you all the information you asked for. Feels like a little bit of police work, i like it

- The Serpentime Belt wasn´t checked by me and i dont know if the Mechanic checked the rest of the Beltdriven parts after he found the broken Waterpump. I want to change the tensioner pulley and belds yesterday but after seeing what a pain in the but it is to change AC Belt i need a little bit more motivation ^^
- Would wd40 work to check if something is wrong with the belt parts?
- Yeah i agree, it sounds more rubbery at the beginning and changed then. I heard a faulty altenator at the mechanic and it sound simulare only difference is, the the other car was standing and it was changing with rpm.
- The sound came on at 40 degree fahrenheit and at 78 degree fahrenheit.
- Yes bothe the pilot and the throw out bearing where replaced
- Ah ok, can you explain to me why, heard that the first time to not use trc.
- Puh that is hard to pinpoint, defentaly from the middle of the car and i think more from the front, but a friend of mine said it is more at the back..
- The last thing i added was a x-pipe but this was 3-4 mounth ago. last year i put wheelspacers (no cheap ones) on the car.
- I have the new part here but i could not find the purge valve at the rear. Does it sit near the tank? I changed bouth valves at he engin.
- Driveshaft was looked over by me and a colleague and nothing was unusual and seems fine. We dind´t check the diff but it was checked 6 month ago.
- The trans din´t look as if it was out.
- Diff got new fluid 6 month ago, trans got new fluid 2 month ago
- Do you mean with drive modes tcr ? Never tested it without tcr off, i will give it a go next time.
- No warrenty left.
- I changed the oil and sparc plugs right bevor the noise came on. Plugs where testet if they are the source but no. The car was liftet in the front only. Not realy hard on it, gave a couple of times the beans on a my favourit backroad. Nothing that was unusal.

Hope thats help a little bit to solve that case.
I have a appointment next monday by my third mechanik (60 year old honda engenier who checked my type R) maybe he has a cloue. I will change all the belts and pullys in the next days, if it change something, i will report it.

Thank you

Edit:
I wanted to change the belts today and found out that the Idler Pulley is a little bit wobbely while running also the belt didn´t look "ok" for me.
A Picture of that:

 

[08GT500]

Hi,
Troubleshooting belt driven accessories & tensioner while the belts on...
1) The belt itself is glazed over., worn, etc.
2) A pulley for an accessory is creating an excessively heavy resistance or load.
2A) A/C Clutch air gap tight/loose/sticky Compressor charge level, bearings.
2B) Power Steering Pump load heavy, low fluid level, Kinked line to rack, binding rack, loose bracket bolt(s), etc..
2C) Alternator bearing(s), loose bracket Bolts. Best way to test is by spraying a bit of belt dressing on, a few tiny Dabs of oil across it, grooved side and flat side, WD40,- (only a little bit to see if it changes anything, if yes, that’s the area to focus on).
4) Try running the Car with the A/C on as soon as you start it cold, also turn it on/off while driving, see if it changes. Again, to rule it out, or focus on it.
5) Start the car cold and turn the wheel to the far right, then far left. Noise occur?

- Give your Serpentine belt a few tugs while installed and see that your tensioner is doing its job of keeping the belt tight as you release it. Best way to diagnose an issue there is by pulling the belt, rotating everything and checking for any pulleys binding, misaligned sticky tensioner, etc.
-If you find the belt has seen better days, I’d run a Gatorback replacement.
-Traction control places an unusual load on the clutch when the car is prevented from breaking traction under harder acceleration. Not good for a new Clutch. OK once broken in.


This is a long shot. Rarely amounts to more than a differential or axle seal oil leak...
The Differential vent (vent bolt) prevents pressure buildup from displacing lubrication & can cause oil starvation in certain areas, air from exerts force on seals, causing the most vulnerable to leak.
Pressure is caused mainly by tiny bubbles formed by the Ring gear at high speeds, picking up and slinging the high viscosity gear oil in the differential, creates a vacuum, pulls air in by seals, then escalates air pressure inside.
See Pic’s below..
I’m leaning towards a belt driven accessory issue. Good to rule it out & move on if that’s not the case, or not the only issue.
Happy Wrenchin’!
-John

 

[08GT500]

Hi John

Dont worry, family goes over everything else. especially now.

I try to give you all the information you asked for. Feels like a little bit of police work, i like it

- The Serpentime Belt wasn´t checked by me and i dont know if the Mechanic checked the rest of the Beltdriven parts after he found the broken Waterpump. I want to change the tensioner pulley and belds yesterday but after seeing what a pain in the but it is to change AC Belt i need a little bit more motivation ^^
- Would wd40 work to check if something is wrong with the belt parts?
- Yeah i agree, it sounds more rubbery at the beginning and changed then. I heard a faulty altenator at the mechanic and it sound simulare only difference is, the the other car was standing and it was changing with rpm.
- The sound came on at 40 degree fahrenheit and at 78 degree fahrenheit.
- Yes bothe the pilot and the throw out bearing where replaced
- Ah ok, can you explain to me why, heard that the first time to not use trc.
- Puh that is hard to pinpoint, defentaly from the middle of the car and i think more from the front, but a friend of mine said it is more at the back..
- The last thing i added was a x-pipe but this was 3-4 mounth ago. last year i put wheelspacers (no cheap ones) on the car.
- I have the new part here but i could not find the purge valve at the rear. Does it sit near the tank? I changed bouth valves at he engin.
- Driveshaft was looked over by me and a colleague and nothing was unusual and seems fine. We dind´t check the diff but it was checked 6 month ago.
- The trans din´t look as if it was out.
- Diff got new fluid 6 month ago, trans got new fluid 2 month ago
- Do you mean with drive modes tcr ? Never tested it without tcr off, i will give it a go next time.
- No warrenty left.
- I changed the oil and sparc plugs right bevor the noise came on. Plugs where testet if they are the source but no. The car was liftet in the front only. Not realy hard on it, gave a couple of times the beans on a my favourit backroad. Nothing that was unusal.

Hope thats help a little bit to solve that case.
I have a appointment next monday by my third mechanik (60 year old honda engenier who checked my type R) maybe he has a cloue. I will change all the belts and pullys in the next days, if it change something, i will report it.

Thank you

Edit:
I wanted to change the belts today and found out that the Idler Pulley is a little bit wobbely while running also the belt didn´t look "ok" for me.
A Picture of that:

Hi,
Hope all is good!
That sound file coupled with that pic certainly reinforces a belt driven issue.
A squeaking belt noise usually goes away within a few seconds to a few minutes as yours does, applying some belt anti slip to improve its Stiction (Yup, real term, lol), to the grooved or outside belt surface(s) depending on the issue usually changes the intensity, squeal may go away, temporarily. Even light oil may help as the belt slips slightly, ceasing noise.
Inside your tensioner is the permanently greased & sealed inline roller bearing(s). Once the seal goes, your grease dries up, only a matter of time before failure under that heavy load.
That’s probably the grinding noise that’s heard along with the squealing. Rust in/around the center of the pulley is another indicator.
I’m not sure why your Mechanic did not replace it when he did the WaterPump, but the more seasoned Honda Tech. you mentioned would likely catch that quick.
Releasing the belt tensioner’s super easy using a Ratchet/Breaker bar’s 1/2” square drive inserted directly into the 1/2” Female square on the tensioner arm. Or use the idler bolt.
Rotate and hold just long enough to pop out the Serpentine belt & reinstall.
The rust/Corrision can be cleaned up during this, use a wire brush & a Scotchbrite pad.
Use Never-Seize on the Bolts & Torque to spec’s.
Check & clean everything while you’re doing this including the Tensioner itself, likely needs a good cleaning & lube. Probably only need to replace the idler itself. Not expensive, 25-30$ including Never Seize.
Good luck with it!
-John
Wanted to add, you’d mentioned hearing an alternator issue the same issue, but idle RPM’s were up & down. (Idle hunting). A vehicle with a CPU & a bad Alternator May cause a Voltage drop across a battery- CPU’s are designed to not function at under12VDC. Many idle issues have been found to be a bad alternator.
May be other issues & a perfect idle, or just a discharged battery. Just an FYI.

 

[Backer44]

Hey John

Thanks for your time and helpfull tips, i realy appreciate it
Hehe i had to look that word Stiction (in German: Haftreibung ) up, but realy interesting.
I change pretty much everything beside the Alternator and AC Compressor out of the Beltsystem. I will check the Alternator and AC out myself. I have no trust in the "work" from the previous shop anymore after i saw that Belt. -.-
Your explanation makes a lot of sense to me, i hope your right and it will finally solve that 7 week oddyssey of searching.
Only thing that still bug´s me is that the car will not make it while running on the lift or idle on the the street but i also have not much experiance.....time will tell
Yay, the "old" Honda mechanic is my last hope if the Belt fix will not work. Sadly people like him are a dying breed, only "Parts-changer" (Teiletauscher) stepp in there footsteps....

I hope the last parts will arrive in the next days, Rockaute.com is realy fast but we had hollydays (Vathers day) and everything was closed over here

I will notify you, if that Belt thing worked or not. I hope that this will also help other people, if they have similar problems.

Wish you a nice weekend

 

[08GT500]

Hey John

Thanks for your time and helpfull tips, i realy appreciate it
Hehe i had to look that word Stiction (in German: Haftreibung ) up, but realy interesting.
I change pretty much everything beside the Alternator and AC Compressor out of the Beltsystem. I will check the Alternator and AC out myself. I have no trust in the "work" from the previous shop anymore after i saw that Belt. -.-
Your explanation makes a lot of sense to me, i hope your right and it will finally solve that 7 week oddyssey of searching.
Only thing that still bug´s me is that the car will not make it while running on the lift or idle on the the street but i also have not much experiance.....time will tell
Yay, the "old" Honda mechanic is my last hope if the Belt fix will not work. Sadly people like him are a dying breed, only "Parts-changer" (Teiletauscher) stepp in there footsteps....

I hope the last parts will arrive in the next days, Rockaute.com is realy fast but we had hollydays (Vathers day) and everything was closed over here

I will notify you, if that Belt thing worked or not. I hope that this will also help other people, if they have similar problems.

Wish you a nice weekend

Hi,
No problem, be satisfied when the issue’s resolved & you’re cruising with only exhaust (and tires) making noise! “Haftreibung”- huh? Well, like to learn something new every day, that exceeded my quota!lol!!
You mentioned replacing more belt driven accessories, in addition to your Tensioner Idler pulley and belt. Find other issues?
Some honest advice... Hold off on replacing any part/or parts until 100% proven as defective via proper troubleshooting. This holds true for both this and other issues you may face in the future.
Your idler pulley, your belt are both proven defective. Go through the rest of your belt driven parts with the Optimistic mindset, they don’t have a problem. You’re proving whether they either function as intended or not, per Factory specifications.
“Part swapping” and “throwing money at it” are both commonly used slang terminology describing randomly replacing parts without first utilizing proper diagnostics, beforehand (You May have seen it in other posts). It’s used often, is highly discouraged and with good reason.
Its extremely important. It confuses the troubleshooting process of locating where the real issue/issues are, wastes Money.
Have a Shop Manual for your Mustang? Chiltons or Haynes are both adequate & give plenty of information to understand how each component functions, it’s specifications, and the role played within the System (Meaning Engine/Drivetrain).
I was pretty certain that you had a belt driven issue before hearing the sound file uploaded. After that -near convinced. After the last text & idler pulley, your comment of it tracking, pic..Quite convinced.
It may be the only issue, or there may be (2) issues. So, move a step at a time.
This is a necessary repair, and will improve things in your favor. Rock auto is very good regarding cost, parts, delivery- I agree.
Regarding the lift, don’t forget your suspension’s hanging with no load on it.
The Power steering Pump is a constant load when the car runs as it’s a hydraulic pump, when the car’s on the ground you increase that load as it’s assisting, turn the steering wheel that load becomes sharply increased.
Quick test:
I’ve applied a drop of yellow paint on Serpentine belt driven Supercharger Pulleys, in a few spots and on the belt’s edge where it meets, checking afterwards if it remains lined up after after it runs under a load, shutdown, it should hit the same spot(s).
Bottom line, if it still lines up afterwards while rolling to motor over by hand, it’s not slipping, if it doesn’t remain lined up, it is slipping..
That's unreal about the “Part changers”! Who actually does the assessment of the vehicles and orders the repair- of type(?), or is it kinda “hit or miss” at the Customer’s expense?
Ok, will look for the post, have a good one! Be well.
-John

 

[08GT500]

Hi,
No problem, be satisfied when the issue’s resolved & you’re cruising with only exhaust (and tires) making noise! “Haftreibung”- huh? Well, like to learn something new every day, that exceeded my quota!lol!!
You mentioned replacing more belt driven accessories, in addition to your Tensioner Idler pulley and belt. Find other issues?
Some honest advice... Hold off on replacing any part/or parts until 100% proven as defective via proper troubleshooting. This holds true for both this and other issues you may face in the future.
Your idler pulley, your belt are both proven defective. Go through the rest of your belt driven parts with the Optimistic mindset, they don’t have a problem. You’re proving whether they either function as intended or not, per Factory specifications.
“Part swapping” and “throwing money at it” are both commonly used slang terminology describing randomly replacing parts without first utilizing proper diagnostics, beforehand (You May have seen it in other posts). It’s used often, is highly discouraged and with good reason.
Its extremely important. It confuses the troubleshooting process of locating where the real issue/issues are, wastes Money.
Have a Shop Manual for your Mustang? Chiltons or Haynes are both adequate & give plenty of information to understand how each component functions, it’s specifications, and the role played within the System (Meaning Engine/Drivetrain).
I was pretty certain that you had a belt driven issue before hearing the sound file uploaded. After that -near convinced. After the last text & idler pulley, your comment of it tracking, pic..Quite convinced.
It may be the only issue, or there may be (2) issues. So, move a step at a time.
This is a necessary repair, and will improve things in your favor. Rock auto is very good regarding cost, parts, delivery- I agree.
Regarding the lift, don’t forget your suspension’s hanging with no load on it.
The Power steering Pump is a constant load when the car runs as it’s a hydraulic pump, when the car’s on the ground you increase that load as it’s assisting, turn the steering wheel that load becomes sharply increased.
Quick test:
I’ve applied a drop of yellow paint on Serpentine belt driven Supercharger Pulleys, in a few spots and on the belt’s edge where it meets, checking afterwards if it remains lined up after after it runs under a load, shutdown, it should hit the same spot(s).
Bottom line, if it still lines up afterwards while rolling to motor over by hand, it’s not slipping, if it doesn’t remain lined up, it is slipping..
That's unreal about the “Part changers”! Who actually does the assessment of the vehicles and orders the repair- of type(?), or is it kinda “hit or miss” at the Customer’s expense?
Ok, will look for the post, have a good one! Be well.
-John

Hi,
Hope all is going well, parts not there yet? Well, likely won’t be there tomorrow as it’s Memorial Day. Looking forward
Be safe!
-John

 

[Backer44]

Hey John

Parts arrived today and i installed the Tensioner and idler pulley, checked the Alternator and nothing. Idler pulley felt a little bit chrunchy but it wasn´t the source of the noise. I forgott to mark both belts if they slip, test it tomorow. Had to use the the old one (wasn´t realy worn only the marking were gone on one side, but who knows) because the wrong belt was in the package -.-

A friend of mine sat at the testdrive next to me and for him came the noise from the rear. I tested it myself later and it realy sound if it´s the rear.
I´m not hoping the something on the rear end is shot. It will be expensive and a pain in the butt to repair, if it´s realy the rear end.

I bought a e36 320i touring for next to nothing last friday and i think, i will driving that car for the time the right belt will arrive. I´m so done with the mustang at the moment. The Honda Tech refused to work on the Car due to lack of experience of the solid Axle. (i´m not mad at him, better to tell the truth and not botch the repair )
I report if something will work out in the next days.

Have a nice day

Small edit:

Damn Car don´t let me sleep so i took pictures from the Belt and from the Alternator pulley because it is shiny like polished by the Belt. Is that normal or an indikator for a draging Belt? Does the Belt from a s550 5.0 fits on the s197 5.0 ? It would be the quickest option.

 

[08GT500]

Hey John

Parts arrived today and i installed the Tensioner and idler pulley, checked the Alternator and nothing. Idler pulley felt a little bit chrunchy but it wasn´t the source of the noise. I forgott to mark both belts if they slip, test it tomorow. Had to use the the old one (wasn´t realy worn only the marking were gone on one side, but who knows) because the wrong belt was in the package -.-

A friend of mine sat at the testdrive next to me and for him came the noise from the rear. I tested it myself later and it realy sound if it´s the rear.
I´m not hoping the something on the rear end is shot. It will be expensive and a pain in the butt to repair, if it´s realy the rear end.

I bought a e36 320i touring for next to nothing last friday and i think, i will driving that car for the time the right belt will arrive. I´m so done with the mustang at the moment. The Honda Tech refused to work on the Car due to lack of experience of the solid Axle. (i´m not mad at him, better to tell the truth and not botch the repair )
I report if something will work out in the next days.

Have a nice day

Hi,
I think differently. You did precisely the right thing so far.
You located a real problem & repaired it by replacing a component. Whether that’s primary or secondary to noise, there’s no shame in that, that idler would‘ve caused even bigger headaches when it decided to seize/fall apart, fail completely, whether a day or months later.
It’s important to mention, if a Serpentine belt has been screeching on/off as result of being loaded heavily or misaligned slightly, a bad tensioner, it’s quite likely glazed and once repairs are made, it often tends to continue squeaking. Also important you use new hardware, Pulley come with a new shouldered bolt?
Is the old belt riding in the center of the new tensioner and idlers?
..wait until you put the new belt on before you become certain it’s not the only issue. Once the new belt’s mounted on clean pulleys that are running true, your driven accessories are good to go. And then, whether the same or not, move on.
If the belt doesn’t cure this, I’ll help you nail it down. Know you’ve been at it for a while before, and it’s frustrating, but have faith. It’ll be found.
Doesn’t sound internal to me, I’ve limited info, but I still believe that sound file was at least some of, if not mostly a belt accessory slipping. Either way, you repaired a valid issue.
If the noise persists, very important next step to Locate it’s origin....
1) Isolate it. Otherwise, you’re Chasing your tail. A sound recorder, affixed in different areas underneath when doing some drive cycles will perform this.
Have an old Cell phone? Cost 0$, pick/run a Sound App., intensity/Volume are visible in sound graph app’s.
2) Need to know if it’s engine RPM related, or vehicle speed related.
When you swapped plugs, did you change oil? If so, any way you could’ve jacked the vehicle on the steering rack, or lines to it?
One kink in a hard power steering line will cause a huge load for the belt.
Your AC functions correctly?
Power steering smooth?
No other drivability issues or noises noted?
Balancer pulley is generally rubber isolated, check it for cracks, dents, that it runs very true when rotating.
Ok, Talk to you soon! Stay safe.
-John

 

[08GT500]

Hey John

Parts arrived today and i installed the Tensioner and idler pulley, checked the Alternator and nothing. Idler pulley felt a little bit chrunchy but it wasn´t the source of the noise. I forgott to mark both belts if they slip, test it tomorow. Had to use the the old one (wasn´t realy worn only the marking were gone on one side, but who knows) because the wrong belt was in the package -.-

A friend of mine sat at the testdrive next to me and for him came the noise from the rear. I tested it myself later and it realy sound if it´s the rear.
I´m not hoping the something on the rear end is shot. It will be expensive and a pain in the butt to repair, if it´s realy the rear end.

I bought a e36 320i touring for next to nothing last friday and i think, i will driving that car for the time the right belt will arrive. I´m so done with the mustang at the moment. The Honda Tech refused to work on the Car due to lack of experience of the solid Axle. (i´m not mad at him, better to tell the truth and not botch the repair )
I report if something will work out in the next days.

Have a nice day

Small edit:

Damn Car don´t let me sleep so i took pictures from the Belt and from the Alternator pulley because it is shiny like polished by the Belt. Is that normal or an indikator for a draging Belt? Does the Belt from a s550 5.0 fits on the s197 5.0 ? It would be the quickest option.

Hi,
It’s hard to tell for certain by a pic, but if the belt had a pulley that caused unequal force on the belt as you had, it starts to walk & not remain centered, surface area being less across the pulleys.. squeak.
Once it starts to squeal, the belt may not stop even once the issues repaired. There’s evidence such as power steering may be a little difficult if it was/is slipping over the power steering pump pulley, or over the AC compressor (running it may make it squeal louder, or quieter), but not every time.
Good rule of thumb, if there was a bad idler or other issue that wasn’t right & you replaced it, replace the belt. Still haven’t received the belt-huh?
I’d recommend a Goodyear Gatorback replacement, they work exceptionally. You can clean up the pulleys with solvent & if there’s rust- anywhere on a pulley, light sandpaper, then a medium 3M abrasive pad (Red colored) will do the trick.
Once running, be sure to watch the belt passing over the idler & that it’s centered up, not tracking from one direction to the other.
You’ll catch it, no worries, realize it’s a PITA, but it will get better my friend!
Best!
-John

 

[08GT500]

-87-93’ 5.0 W/a/c is the same, except Cobra’s.
-6 Cyl models are all different.
-2009-2010 4.6’s are 102” long...
-2011-2017 Belt will fit the 5.0 DOHC Coyote motors, GT & Boss. P/N JK6342B, BR3Z8620R.
What’s the #’s on your belt?

 

[Backer44]

Hey

Sorry for the late response, hade to take a brake from all of that.

Thanks again for the information. You are honestly the most helpfull person i ever met on the internet.
The Car goes to a other shop on next friday. They ordered both belts for me an will take a look at the alternater. Maybe the "Freilauf" (don´t know the right term for it, it´s like a clutch inside the alternator..sort of ^^) is broken. That would explain why the noise occur at driving only.
Thy also take a look at other things, maby they find something.

I could check it myself, but i have a second "work" (by a friend of mine) after my main work so time is rare for me at the moment. We restoring a 68 Chevy Impala 2 door hardtop there, a beautiful car but part are hard to come by ^^ I beginning to miss my car realy, the BMW is nothing compared to the Mustang, but i don´t want to harm him with driving ....

Stay safe, have a nice weekend, i will write back soon.