SN95 Steering And Suspension

[RaggedGT]

Another random thought/realization thread from me
‘95 GT-currently awaiting a transmission rebuild (long story-but in process.)
Motor is coming out in a couple of weekends for a refresh. I got to thinking about all the squeaks and creaks the car made when it actually drove/and the power steering fluid leak from the rack. So after filling my cart with MM Tubular control arms and looking up K members and coil overs etc. It hit me. If I’m lucky,after the engine refresh and the rebuilt aode-I’ll be lucky to be pushing 275rwhp. Do I really need the light weight,corner carving adjustable suspension?
My ultimate goal is to put it back together as a driver,and just drive it.
I paroozed around Rock Auto and looked up OE replacement parts,and the cost as you would imagine is a lot less lol.

Stock shocks suffice?

Or would the KYB’s be a noticeable upgrade?

Same with the struts?

Factory rotor prices and these drilled and slotted rotors are pretty comparable. Are they any better than the stockers?

My hub bearings seem fine-but while it’s all blown apart?

Just to add to the confusion-my car sits high,like four wheel drive status. I’d like to lower it slightly. Like less than an inch in the rear. And a little less in the front. You guys have any experience/Recommendations for coil springs?
That’s pretty much it- Good,Bad or indifferent, let me have it

 

[2000xp8]

Here's the thing, the k member is obviously easier with the engine out, but still possible with it in.
So you don't "have" to have it now.
It's a little bit of a pointless modification in most situations.
Would I do one again? Yeah, but after I had every other thing I ever wanted.

I like the coil overs for adjustable ride height, ease of swapping springs and working on the car.
I also like adjustable shocks, but I don't think the average guy needs more than basic single adjustable with a couple settings.

For you? I think the k member can wait.

 

[RaggedGT]

Here's the thing, the k member is obviously easier with the engine out, but still possible with it in.
So you don't "have" to have it now.
It's a little bit of a pointless modification in most situations.
Would I do one again? Yeah, but after I had every other thing I ever wanted.

I like the coil overs for adjustable ride height, ease of swapping springs and working on the car.
I also like adjustable shocks, but I don't think the average guy needs more than basic single adjustable with a couple settings.

For you? I think the k member can wait.

That’s exactly the reason I keep going back and forth between after market or stock... Weight savings and corner carving. Not so much an issue- Access and Adjustability/ Coil overs.. That’s what’s making me indecisive lol

 

[90sickfox]

An aftermarket k member makes it alot easier to work on our cars. The stock k member isn't that heavy at all, though. The inner thing i don't like about aftermarket k members is that it's difficult to brace to the body of the car. The factory k member has a V shaped factory brace that goes from the core support to the k member and from the k member to the frame area of the body.

I know my convertible had it stock. There was a little flex until i installed a strut tower brace. The stock k member didn't really move at all once i installed full length subframe connectors.

The biggest benefit from changing the k member is if you ever have to do the rack.

I swear doing a rack in a mustang with a factory k member can be a PITA

 

[Mustang5L5]

If you are changing out the steering rack, go for the cardone 22-2000 instead. 03-04 Cobra specs, and the same price

 

[2000xp8]

The problem is that a k member with arms and coil overs is like paying $1500 for better access.
The access can be valuable (although I got by for 20 years without it), but is it really worth that much money right now?

What I would probably consider is an MM steering shaft while you are messing with all of it.

 

[srtthis]

If you are changing out the steering rack, go for the cardone 22-2000 instead. 03-04 Cobra specs, and the same price

i know of someone who has a true ford 03 cobra rack for sale right now. and i think its pretty much new.

 

[Boostedpimp]

Tubular k, a arms, and coilovers are valuable mods if your seeking weight savings, ease of access and ability to tune your front suspension and ride height. I've swapped them in on the last four foxbodies I've owned and never regretted the move yet.

 

[2000xp8]

The weight loss is really negligible using any quality k member sturdy enough for corner carving duty.
A decent portion of the weight savings could just be had by going to coil overs.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Weight-Myths-about-K-members.aspx

That's about $1500 to lose roughly 40lbs.
You could buy a set of twisted wedges, gain 25+rwhp and lose 50lbs for less money.

Simple math suggests that a k member should not be a priority.

 

[RaggedGT]

The weight loss is really negligible using any quality k member sturdy enough for corner carving duty.
A decent portion of the weight savings could just be had by going to coil overs.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Weight-Myths-about-K-members.aspx

That's about $1500 to lose roughly 40lbs.
You could buy a set of twisted wedges, gain 25+rwhp and lose 50lbs for less money.

Simple math suggests that a k member should not be a priority.

I agree with you. K member and coil overs would be nice to have-but not in the immediate plans. I’m going to go the Oe/Moog route for steering/suspension. I am going to look into the Cobra steering rack and the MM steering shaft though
As much as I’d like to upgrade to a set of aluminum heads and a better intake. The GT40 top end is what’s going back in the car.
Thanks everybody for your input this far

 

[mikestang63]

90% of street cars have no real advantage in swapping K members. Unless you run long tubes, a turbo,or swap motors most guys will never notice it.

 

[Boostedpimp]

Or

90% of street cars have no real advantage in swapping K members. Unless you run long tubes, a turbo,or swap motors most guys will never notice it.

if you need to get to your starter or pull your oil pan down

 

[hoopty5.0]

Power steering - Booooooooo!

You’re a big guy, manual racks aren’t bad.

 

[RaggedGT]

Power steering - Booooooooo!

You’re a big guy, manual racks aren’t bad.

Then you’re really not gonna like it has fully functional AC

 

[revhead347]

90% of street cars have no real advantage in swapping K members. Unless you run long tubes, a turbo,or swap motors most guys will never notice it.

Longtubes with a factory K-member really isn't that big of a deal.

To the OP, just fix what's broke. The front bearings are double ball bearing, and start to ride with only a little bit of age. You can check them with a dial indicator. As for the ball joints, tie rod ends, etc, if they are wore out, replace them. As for the tubular stuff, I could take it or leave it. As said before, it's a lot of money spent for minimal gain. If you really want carve some corners, spend your money on quality shocks, rear control arms, and tires.

Kurt

 

[Steel1]

I just completed suspension work on my 93GT.
I wanted coil overs for adjustability but since it's purely a street car didn't think
doing the K member was worth the money/time. I wanted to address the
front control arm bushings, ball joints and shock/struts as well.
So in the end I went with tubular front control arms, coil overs and new
shocks/struts while leaving the stock K. Once the weather breaks I'll see
how it rides.

 

[hoopty5.0]

Then you’re really not gonna like it has fully functional AC

Oh no, I've always had and always will have A/C. But Finding a decent replacement P/S pump at a reasonable price is impossible, as is having one that doesn't leak.

 

[88LXSleeper]

I just replaced all the tired bushings everywhere, budget lowering springs and shock package from LMR, SFC, strut tower brace, C and C plates, and panhard bar. Stock ball joints and tie rod ends, went with lower ratio rack.
Budget build for track car and daily driver, was much better for track and worth it on street for what I spent.
Not a fan of slotted/drilled rotors, don't need them unless you like that look I guess.

 

[RaggedGT]

Are slotted/drilled rotors much of an upgrade over stock rotors?
I like them as a Visual Upgrade ,but an actual upgrade would be nice as well lol

 

[General karthief]

Two things, well three really.
Why spend $230 apiece for control arms when you could do the bushings and ball joints on both sides for less than half the price of one new control arm, if you want shiny then blast them and por15, they will look like new. I think the tubular control arms are not much more money
Replacing the starter with long tubes are not an issue if you use the 92-3 style starter, I just changed mine in my 89 gt in about 20 minutes