I just wanted to post it in here too so others that don't read my thread can see here that professional tuners need to be questioned and often guess or just do half ass work. My fuel table is all over the place.The table is heavy and lacks any kind of smoothness..... it desperately needs help
Anyone see where the "professional tuner" went wrong with my VE table? I know Steve will.
I thought I was the rookie? The warm and fuzzy feeling for this shop is slowly going away. After just getting off the phone with the guy I'm not sure I'll trust him with tuning for meth injection after he seemed surprised that Kenne Bells create high IAT's and my car was pulling timing during our session. He never suggested nor did he ever take or view a data log during the entire tuning session.
The nice thing about Megasquirt is you can use any sensors you want. If you have the stock harness in the car they have a pnp unit that pops right into place. If you are interested in high level control (full sequential everything) buy the ms3pro and there harness. Then you need a 36-1 tooth wheel and cam sensor from an explorer use cop units from a 4.6l2v or LS truck coils and run sequential ignition as well.Afternoon everyone. I"ve been doing a lot of research on this setup and think I am purchasing in the next month. Having a 363 stroker with s trim, what would you recommend I purchase(sensors, harness, etc). with the ecu if I did the diy ecu route
The nice thing about Megasquirt is you can use any sensors you want. If you have the stock harness in the car they have a pnp unit that pops right into place. If you are interested in high level control (full sequential everything) buy the ms3pro and there harness. Then you need a 36-1 tooth wheel and cam sensor from an explorer use cop units from a 4.6l2v or LS truck coils and run sequential ignition as well.
Options are endless.... what kind of options are you looking for?
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LC-2_Manual.pdfOk, so it's been like a year since I posted in this thread and I should be treated like a newb who needs to pay his dues... understood...
That said, I had the car torn down some to do some work and that included leaving the battery unhooked for like 6+ months (battery was on a tender and should be fine, starts car fine). Anyways I got it up and running last night and my Innovate Motorsports LC-2 WB setup was working fine before but now is maxed out on AFR even though the car is running "fine" or at least as well as it did before I started my work. I've attached a log from the startup tonight which will show the way off wideband, but more importantly in the log is the point where we reach 180 degrees and my fan kicks on and then the engine stumbles like crazy and I have to rev it to stay alive. One of the things I did during the downtime was a Lincoln MK IIIV fan and DCC controller (didn't want to complicate my current setup).
So, I'm pretty sure my LC-2 is needing to be reconfigured but I don't recall exactly how/what to do and didn't take notes cause I suck. And after I fix the AFR I need to find out why when my fan kicks on the engine wants to die (no U/D pulleys and a 3g alt).
Get a meter out and check for voltage drops when the fan kicks on. Since you just took things apart i'd double check ground points as well. Fortunately you don't really need the wideband for anything unless you need to touch up your tune. Once your tune is dialed in you could remove your WB and store it away since you're naturally aspirated.Ok, so it's been like a year since I posted in this thread and I should be treated like a newb who needs to pay his dues... understood...
That said, I had the car torn down some to do some work and that included leaving the battery unhooked for like 6+ months (battery was on a tender and should be fine, starts car fine). Anyways I got it up and running last night and my Innovate Motorsports LC-2 WB setup was working fine before but now is maxed out on AFR even though the car is running "fine" or at least as well as it did before I started my work. I've attached a log from the startup tonight which will show the way off wideband, but more importantly in the log is the point where we reach 180 degrees and my fan kicks on and then the engine stumbles like crazy and I have to rev it to stay alive. One of the things I did during the downtime was a Lincoln MK IIIV fan and DCC controller (didn't want to complicate my current setup).
So, I'm pretty sure my LC-2 is needing to be reconfigured but I don't recall exactly how/what to do and didn't take notes cause I suck. And after I fix the AFR I need to find out why when my fan kicks on the engine wants to die (no U/D pulleys and a 3g alt).
I would double up the usefullness..... if you are using an output for watermeth simply tag the wot relay into the circuit. Your spraying at wot conditions so it makes sense.Thanx, Steve. I knew there was something fishy with this thing. I bought my mspnp2 built by diyautotune.
I'm going to use a nitrous micro switch I have laying around for WOT AC cut out. I need all the ports for other stuff....
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