Steve's Megasquirt/tunerstudio Help Thread

[a91what]

The table is heavy and lacks any kind of smoothness..... it desperately needs help

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

The table is heavy and lacks any kind of smoothness..... it desperately needs help

I just wanted to post it in here too so others that don't read my thread can see here that professional tuners need to be questioned and often guess or just do half ass work. My fuel table is all over the place.

 

[stroked&blown89]

Afternoon everyone. I"ve been doing a lot of research on this setup and think I am purchasing in the next month. Having a 363 stroker with s trim, what would you recommend I purchase(sensors, harness, etc). with the ecu if I did the diy ecu route

 

[Noobz347]

Anyone see where the "professional tuner" went wrong with my VE table? I know Steve will.

I thought I was the rookie? The warm and fuzzy feeling for this shop is slowly going away. After just getting off the phone with the guy I'm not sure I'll trust him with tuning for meth injection after he seemed surprised that Kenne Bells create high IAT's and my car was pulling timing during our session. He never suggested nor did he ever take or view a data log during the entire tuning session.

ALL blowers create high IATs. Has he never seen a blower before? Smack him in the face with one. Maybe it will jar something loose.


Oh... Tell him that Noobz said "hi" and that he's a dumbass.

I look forward to his next customer showing up so I can blog his work over on "icantunetosavemyass.com".

 

[a91what]

Afternoon everyone. I"ve been doing a lot of research on this setup and think I am purchasing in the next month. Having a 363 stroker with s trim, what would you recommend I purchase(sensors, harness, etc). with the ecu if I did the diy ecu route

The nice thing about Megasquirt is you can use any sensors you want. If you have the stock harness in the car they have a pnp unit that pops right into place. If you are interested in high level control (full sequential everything) buy the ms3pro and there harness. Then you need a 36-1 tooth wheel and cam sensor from an explorer use cop units from a 4.6l2v or LS truck coils and run sequential ignition as well.

Options are endless.... what kind of options are you looking for?

 

[stroked&blown89]

The nice thing about Megasquirt is you can use any sensors you want. If you have the stock harness in the car they have a pnp unit that pops right into place. If you are interested in high level control (full sequential everything) buy the ms3pro and there harness. Then you need a 36-1 tooth wheel and cam sensor from an explorer use cop units from a 4.6l2v or LS truck coils and run sequential ignition as well.

Options are endless.... what kind of options are you looking for?

To be honest, main reason is the fact that most tuners I have dealt with suck. The most recent tuner is VERY well known in the mustang world and he totally sucked. Initial tune was so rich the car wouldn't start once warm, final tune didn't go any better. I just want my 363 to be tuned properly and safely for the street with the occasional strip visit. Plan to go e85 and second tune for 93. Nothing special really.

 

[a91what]

E85 sucks, run water/meth.

If you do go the e85 route simply install the e85 sensor in the tank the megasquirt can be configured to auto switch tunes, even blend tables can be setup.

 

[bird_dog0347]

Ok, so it's been like a year since I posted in this thread and I should be treated like a newb who needs to pay his dues... understood...

That said, I had the car torn down some to do some work and that included leaving the battery unhooked for like 6+ months (battery was on a tender and should be fine, starts car fine). Anyways I got it up and running last night and my Innovate Motorsports LC-2 WB setup was working fine before but now is maxed out on AFR even though the car is running "fine" or at least as well as it did before I started my work. I've attached a log from the startup tonight which will show the way off wideband, but more importantly in the log is the point where we reach 180 degrees and my fan kicks on and then the engine stumbles like crazy and I have to rev it to stay alive. One of the things I did during the downtime was a Lincoln MK IIIV fan and DCC controller (didn't want to complicate my current setup).

So, I'm pretty sure my LC-2 is needing to be reconfigured but I don't recall exactly how/what to do and didn't take notes cause I suck. And after I fix the AFR I need to find out why when my fan kicks on the engine wants to die (no U/D pulleys and a 3g alt).

 

[90sickfox]

The WB needs to be recalibrated anytime the battery is disconnected.

The install PDF is available online. It'll tell you how to calibrate it. My install guide is not with me right now.

 

[a91what]

+1

Also now that you have a variable load (a large one at that) the idle control settings will need to be updated, not a big deal really may take some time tuning. I can't help much until the wb is calibrated and working correctly

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

Ok, so it's been like a year since I posted in this thread and I should be treated like a newb who needs to pay his dues... understood...

That said, I had the car torn down some to do some work and that included leaving the battery unhooked for like 6+ months (battery was on a tender and should be fine, starts car fine). Anyways I got it up and running last night and my Innovate Motorsports LC-2 WB setup was working fine before but now is maxed out on AFR even though the car is running "fine" or at least as well as it did before I started my work. I've attached a log from the startup tonight which will show the way off wideband, but more importantly in the log is the point where we reach 180 degrees and my fan kicks on and then the engine stumbles like crazy and I have to rev it to stay alive. One of the things I did during the downtime was a Lincoln MK IIIV fan and DCC controller (didn't want to complicate my current setup).

So, I'm pretty sure my LC-2 is needing to be reconfigured but I don't recall exactly how/what to do and didn't take notes cause I suck. And after I fix the AFR I need to find out why when my fan kicks on the engine wants to die (no U/D pulleys and a 3g alt).

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LC-2_Manual.pdf

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

Ok, so it's been like a year since I posted in this thread and I should be treated like a newb who needs to pay his dues... understood...

That said, I had the car torn down some to do some work and that included leaving the battery unhooked for like 6+ months (battery was on a tender and should be fine, starts car fine). Anyways I got it up and running last night and my Innovate Motorsports LC-2 WB setup was working fine before but now is maxed out on AFR even though the car is running "fine" or at least as well as it did before I started my work. I've attached a log from the startup tonight which will show the way off wideband, but more importantly in the log is the point where we reach 180 degrees and my fan kicks on and then the engine stumbles like crazy and I have to rev it to stay alive. One of the things I did during the downtime was a Lincoln MK IIIV fan and DCC controller (didn't want to complicate my current setup).

So, I'm pretty sure my LC-2 is needing to be reconfigured but I don't recall exactly how/what to do and didn't take notes cause I suck. And after I fix the AFR I need to find out why when my fan kicks on the engine wants to die (no U/D pulleys and a 3g alt).

Get a meter out and check for voltage drops when the fan kicks on. Since you just took things apart i'd double check ground points as well. Fortunately you don't really need the wideband for anything unless you need to touch up your tune. Once your tune is dialed in you could remove your WB and store it away since you're naturally aspirated.

 

[bird_dog0347]

Didn't realize power loss would result in full re-calibration of the WB controller... I'll try to do that tonight and then update with a new log.

All that aside, I will still need help with the start up and warm up. Ever since I put in the MS every cold start I have to apply slight throttle to keep it running until the WB initializes or it will die. I'm sure it's either WUE or ignition advance related but really have no idea right now.

 

[bird_dog0347]

Ok, I got the LC-2 re-calibrated and now have the gauge as well as tuner studio in agreement on the AFR. Here's a log of a fairly cold start, it had run for about 30 seconds with the incorrect values on the LC-2 controller so the MS2 couldn't see the proper ratio then I killed it and fixed it and 5 minutes later took this one. The car seems to be running extremely rich, at least based on the smell of it. And I even have cats on it and it's horrible. I let it run for a bit with a few revs and then it died on it's own (not warm enough for fan to kick on).

 

[a91what]

For all those using a MSPNP2

The wot relay for the a.c. control coming from the ecu is pulled to ground causing the a.c. to not function.
This has been fixed in the new v1.2 mspnp2 board.

HOW TO FIX IT.

Permanent fix is to use an output for the relay, ALED or WLED are both good candidates for this. Disconnect the factory wiring from either the relay(pin85) or the ecu plug(pin54). Then wire it to the output of your choice, I would use tps% of 85% as the trigger point with a 10% hysteresis. These outputs are found on your expansion plug refer to the mspnp2 manual for plug number.

Temporary fix (leaving it this way can damage the a.c. system if run at wot for extended periods of time)/disclaimer.

Simply removing the wiring from pin 85 of the wot relay or pin 54 of the ecu will make the a.c. function, this however disables the wot relay.


I hope this info helps those of you who are dealing with this issue now.
@AUBURN1111 @FoxMustangLvr (not sure if issue with stinger pimp) @90sickfox (can't remember if you built yours)
Tag anyone I may have missed for this if you would.

 

[90sickfox]

Thanx, Steve. I knew there was something fishy with this thing. I bought my mspnp2 built by diyautotune.

I'm going to use a nitrous micro switch I have laying around for WOT AC cut out. I need all the ports for other stuff....

 

[a91what]

Thanx, Steve. I knew there was something fishy with this thing. I bought my mspnp2 built by diyautotune.

I'm going to use a nitrous micro switch I have laying around for WOT AC cut out. I need all the ports for other stuff....

I would double up the usefullness..... if you are using an output for watermeth simply tag the wot relay into the circuit. Your spraying at wot conditions so it makes sense.
Just tossing that idea out there. It's how I'm going to do mine when I get the a.c. put on.

 

[90sickfox]

How many relays can I run off each output and how ? Not the jumpers on the board but from output to relays.

 

[a91what]

The wled and aled can both carry up to a 3amp load safely. All other outputs need to be wired thru a output relay on the board, they carry 3 amps as well. Altogether you can have up to 4 outputs on a diypnp. The mspnp2 may be hardware limited consult your manual.

I know for a fact my wled output can handle the coil load from 2 60amp Bosch relays for cooling fans.

HOW??

These outputs pull a circuit low, meaning that when they are triggered the circuit is grounded. So you wire the relay coil with 12v(key)pin86 and the ecu gets the ground side pin85

For more than one simply parallel the wiring both relays will be wired to one output...

If one was inclined you could even setup your fans to come on with the a.c. compressor they would shutoff with the wot relay and if wired correctly function from your fan output normally when the a.c. is off.

All of this would require one jumper wire from your fan relay to the wot relay then your watermeth can be fired from the wot relay (or it's relay triggered from the wot relay)
Interlocked functionality with 3 relays and 2 outputs.

 

[90sickfox]

I was figuring I'd tap into the feed wire for the AC pressure switch to a relay to apply ground to my high speed fan relay.

The nitrous switch bracket flexes so it can be set to 85% throttle. It would ground the AC relay cutting power to the compressor. This way seems easier to me.

The settings and jumpers are still a little touchy for me. My boost controller and meth injection will get powered off those ports eventually.

At my rate that'll be in about a year... Lol

Thanks for the help man !!! I may get bold enough to try it.